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Looking at Avalanche


Falko

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ahopkins22LSV

Upgrading the headunit should be pretty easy. I did this summer. I bought a pretty cheap Pioneer HU with BT, Aux, and USB and the adapter kit to keep the steering wheel controls. Maybe a two hour/beer job. Now I have hands free calling and streaming BT music from my phone.

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So you were able to keep the steering wheel controls? That is important to me. I will be calling Crutchfield to discuss my options when the time comes. I don't want to wait too long though as that year of vehicle probably will not be supported for very long.

Where did you get yours?

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ahopkins22LSV

Yep, everything still works. The source and scrolling through radio bands is slightly different than stock but still works. And I ordered through Crutchfield as well.

This is the HU I ordered. Although, it looks like its no longer available. I was on a very tight budget. Working great since the end of June though.

This the adapter kit for steering wheel controls. A bit pricey, but happy I did it now.

I would assume the kit works in 04 as mine is an 05 and should have the same setup. I do have the Bose system in mine though. Crutchfield's site is great, I just did everything by what fits my vehicle. Never called them.

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I added PAC Audio adapters to the stock head unit when I bought the truck & was pretty happy with how it all turned out. Ended up with 2 AUX inputs (one to a GPS unit, the other to a Bluetooth adapter). Plus I replaced all the speakers with a better quality MBQuartz unit & added an amp & 8" sub under the rear seat (that doesn't effect how the midgate works). It's been in there for about 6 or 7 yrs & been great & allowed me to keep the stock HU & off thieves radar since I open the bed up for months at a time in the summer. Recently the CD player stopped working & I've been thinking about replacing the HU with something more up to date. Steering wheel controls would be nice to keep & I see PAC sells the kit for that too. Bluetooth is a necessity & hands free phone use would be nice.

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Thinking about raising the front an inch or so to get it more level. I'll see what the shocks do first, might just be a little saggy right now.

If the shocks don't do what you want it's a torsion bar front end. Put it where you want it with an 18mm socket and after you're satisfied with the ride height for a few days get an alignment.

Very easy to get 1-2".

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So I can adjust the front ride height with what's there? Interesting, have to look at that.

I didn't notice it on the test ride, but the radio seems to have lost the ability to eject the CD. There is a CD in there, luckily it is big band music from the 40's. So I've got that going for me. I'm not going to put any money into the stock HU, will replace with something newer with features, thanks for the links. Speakers will be soon after that, and thinking about one of those Infinity bass units that are all in one. Not sure if it will fit though.

Thanks all.

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ahopkins22LSV

Check your speakers. The OEMs were not compatible with any aftermarket HUs.

Why? With the adapter that you plug into for the steering wheel controls plugs right into the stock wiring harness. I would have to imagine the speakers will work just fine. And I know for a fact the rear ones in my truck did. I did replace my fronts with a set of components because one was on its way out.

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I'm not a big stereo guy. But as I recall the stock speakers were a 2 ohm speaker & when I was setting up an amp & sub on the PAC adapter, they recommended that I go to a 4 ohm speaker.

It's certainly worth a try to use the old speakers.

Maybe someone else can explain why.

Edited by Bill_AirJunky
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When you replaced the speakers, did you have to remove the entire door panel, or were you able to just remove the speaker screen? I looked on Crutchfield last night and they show removing the entire door panel.

I thought I could live with the stock stereo but it is pretty shot, sounds like my grandfather's AM truck radio that had a single speaker on the dash. Only my single speaker is on the passenger door, the driver's side doesn't make much sound now.

Thinking component speakers and mounting the mains in the doors and the smaller in the window pillar where the Bose system did theirs for these trucks. Rears will either get standard or components with the smaller mounted in the overhead arch. Going to try to squeeze a small powered sub under the rear seat (not sure how people fit larger units under there, doesn't seem like much room and behind the seat isn't an option, I NEED the midgate access.)

Head unit, I'd like to get something with a back up camera (for hitching the trailer, and not crushing Corollas behind me). GPS isn't as necessary. This will be a fun build, but going to wait until after the holidays.

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You guys that have done some mods to the sound systems, what are your thoughts on this?

New component speakers for the front, amp driven

STandard replacements for the rear, either amp driven or off the head unit. This is the area I'm not sure on, is it worth going to an amp for those speakers, or just use the power from the head unit.

New head unit, trying to get something I can incorporate a back up camera and still have steering wheel controls, doesn't seem to be a tall order

self driven bass unit under the back seat. Infiniti basslink doesn't have great reviews for longevity, might go to the pioneer.

I don't need a boomin' system, just something that sounds good.

thanks!

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ahopkins22LSV

Might as well power the rear speakers if your are going to power the front since you will already be running power ground and rca cables for the amp for the front speakers. Only extra work would be running speaker wire from the amp to the rear speakers which is not much work. Four channel amps are cheap and easy to come buy since you don't need crazy power.

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...or (still buying a 4 channel) use the HU power to the rears and the rear channels of the 4 channel to power a real sub...

Can't tell you how many 'budget systems' we've done that way over the years in our shops, in all kinds of cars. Including one of mine. It's easily the best bang for the buck and will outperform a powered sub unit dollar for dollar.

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^^^^ this, like x1M!

If you are trying to just get good sound in the cabin for personal listening at moderate to loud levels (but not annoy the neighbors, etc), well powered components up front, rears running from the deck (just for rear fill, and you can certainly dispense with them altogether if your setup up front is good), and a decently powered sub and you are off to the races. You are much better off using amp power for a sub than to power rear speakers. it's a waste to feed a ton of power to coaxes in the rear.

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If your swapping out the HU, then I like the idea to use the HU power for the rear speakers (that you don't hear all that much from the front seat anyway), and then the amp's other channels for a separate sub.

The Avalanche has a lot of crazy sub options available to it, a lot of which make the midgate useless. I use the bed of this rig for hauling things all the time so the midgate goes up & down a lot. This is one of the better subs I've found as far as keeping the midgate functionality & price, quality, etc.

Looking forward to hearing what you end up doing.

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I had that all typed out but deleted it as I haven't looked up Avyburban sub boxes in a while. Pretty much anything under or behind the rear seat will keep it from folding completely flat if you ever need that 8' bed laid out that way.

Good point Bill.

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Bill, would that allow the back seat to fold down fully? The midgate is one of the big reasons I went with the Avy, full functionality is a must. It looks really large to allow the seat back to lie flat (well, as flat as it does).

Just wanted to add a thanks for all the suggestions. I don't know this area very well, and those of you that do, I much appreciate the input.

Would I benefit at all going to a 4+1 amp to drive the speakers and the sub? I drive this thing by myself 90% of the time, 8% with someone else in the car, and 2% with anyone in the back. I'm not sure I need to go too nuts with rear speakers.

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I could build a "stealth box" in the center and just add a sub? I'm not fond of the storage there now, could just build a new center and add a sub, could also incorporate the amp and such into it. Make it the sound system housing...

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