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Draining velvet drive transmission


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I used a large syringe and big bore feeding tube for my Sanger - BTW I'm a veterinarian so had that stuff handy - I'll bet your friendly neighbor hood vet would be happy to sell you a 60 to 100cc syringe and feeding tube

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Thanks for the info. I would like to flush the old fluid as it looks like a strawberry shake. Probably has water in it. What should I flush it with? Transmission fluid or something else?

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if it were mine i'd go w transmission fluid replaced through the dip stick bore and plan on replacing the new fluid several times after short runs until it remains clear.

are you sure that the trans cooler is not leaking? that water come from a full bilge?

you can pull the filter plate on the bottom of the transmission to completely drain:

scribe motor mounts so you can put the drive train back where it was

pull the output shaft loose,

break the front motor mount loose (so engine will rotate here),

remove back motor mount and lift trans tail-stock until unit is level and you have room to pull the cover.

i'd plan on it being a half day job.

let me emphasize that i'm not positive your velvet drive transmission has a filter/screen plate on the bottom but i'm guessing it does.

check prior to swinging wrenches for a half day.

i'd still expect to need to drain a few times as the new fluid becomes contaminated

Edited by tvano
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I'm not sure where the water came from. The person I bought it from didn't know the boats history. I'm thinking that by draining and flushing it several times and it continues to get water in it then it must be coming from the cooler. I'm not sure how to check to see if the cooler is leaking.

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I'm not sure where the water came from. The person I bought it from didn't know the boats history. I'm thinking that by draining and flushing it several times and it continues to get water in it then it must be coming from the cooler. I'm not sure how to check to see if the cooler is leaking.

I just used a turkey baster on my old 95 Response. Worked great.

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