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03ReponseLxi

About to do the Saltwater thing.....

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03ReponseLxi

So I got some great advice as to how to maintain my 03 Response in Salt/brackish water.

So as I prepare it seems like there is two options to flushing... 1) fake-a-lake or 2) the factory installed flush. I understand the fake-a-lake option, but I want to make sure I am ok with the factory option if my Bu is setup that way.

I have the quick disconnect near the rear of the engine and below the right exhaust manifold when standing bow side looking at the engine. Looks like I will need some sort of T connector and close of the intake water valve in order to close the system, other than the exhaust tips. Or there is another technique. I definitely do not want to crank the engine with it not properly setup for flushing.

Also, I seem to have some oil residue inside the hull area that normally gets drained after leaving the ramp. I haven't seen any oil leak areas, so it might be residue from when I changed the oil at the beginning of the season. I want to be as environmentally friendly as possible. So what is the best method of getting the whole area cleaned out and free of oil, so that I can find out if there is an actually leak or not?

Thanks in advance!!!

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robbennett

I really hope you have closed cooling. If not flush very thoroughly. Don't forget about all of the other parts of the boat. Anything else that is metal will start to corrode if not properly cleaned/coated. Even things like the hinges on the seats.

For the bilge get some tough dish soap like Dawn or Ajax and rinse away the bilge. I park mine on a slight hill so it all runs out of the rear plug.

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kx250frider617

Of 10 years boating in salt water, I've never had any issues with the cooling system of my previous raw water cooled boats. Especially, if it's going to be a once in awhile type thing, you have nothing to worry about. If anything, buy some corrosion stop and spray the engine mounts and raw metal areas. And remember, keep the water out of the boat, tell people to dry off on the platform.

Spend most of your worries on the trailer!!!!

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REW

For the bilge use strong dish soap, disconnect the bilge pump and add water, plastic and real golf balls (some sink some float) drive around (this works great if you have to trailer the boat for a vacation). Drain, and rinse when you get there/home.

For the salt thing, cleanliness will be your best friend for most of the boat. For the motor compartment I believe you can get an anti corrosion spray and coat everything really well.

The trailer on the other hand.......good luck.

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BlastRlxi

For the bilge use strong dish soap, disconnect the bilge pump and add water, plastic and real golf balls (some sink some float) drive around (this works great if you have to trailer the boat for a vacation). Drain, and rinse when you get there/home.

For the salt thing, cleanliness will be your best friend for most of the boat. For the motor compartment I believe you can get an anti corrosion spray and coat everything really well.

The trailer on the other hand.......good luck.

Good call on the anti corrosion spray for the engine compartment. I agree with the others on the trailer being the thing to worry about. If possible, take it to a fresh water lake on the way home and dunk to trailer the try to flush it. You'll never get all the salt out of every part of the trailer with a hose. Salt gets up in the drain holes of your trailer beams and the rust will start to eat your trailer from the inside out.

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REW

There is a product called "salt away" I have heard mixed reviews about it, the ones that don't like it say it leaves a residue. Not sure if it will help with the trailer or not.

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justgary

So I got some great advice as to how to maintain my 03 Response in Salt/brackish water.

So as I prepare it seems like there is two options to flushing... 1) fake-a-lake or 2) the factory installed flush. I understand the fake-a-lake option, but I want to make sure I am ok with the factory option if my Bu is setup that way.

I have the quick disconnect near the rear of the engine and below the right exhaust manifold when standing bow side looking at the engine. Looks like I will need some sort of T connector and close of the intake water valve in order to close the system, other than the exhaust tips. Or there is another technique. I definitely do not want to crank the engine with it not properly setup for flushing.

Also, I seem to have some oil residue inside the hull area that normally gets drained after leaving the ramp. I haven't seen any oil leak areas, so it might be residue from when I changed the oil at the beginning of the season. I want to be as environmentally friendly as possible. So what is the best method of getting the whole area cleaned out and free of oil, so that I can find out if there is an actually leak or not?

Thanks in advance!!!

Your third paragraph has me confused. Are you looking at the manifold drain connection and thinking that it is a factory flush system? A flush connector will be between the intake rake in the hull and the raw water pump.

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