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Time to replace engine


malibucanuck

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My 93 Echelon engine packed it in last weekend after @1400 hrs of service. So i'm in the market for a new mill.

Original was SBC 350/260 HP( probably more like 300 HP with mods a few years ago) so Im staying with a SBC for ease of RR.

Have a engine builder in WA that has a good rep for marine engines and has a long block 383 stroker (290HP/409FP torque @3200rpm)

for a reasonable price. Never had much experience with 383 in a marine application and assume a prop change will be in order.

Appreciate any thoughts on this engine and prop recommends.

Thx.

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What failed? I've always heard these things will go 3000 hours, although I've only heard of a few examples like that. I can't hep you much with your 383 question though.

  • Like 2
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# 7 cylinder filled with water from what appears to be a crack in the cylinder. Was burning a bit of crude as well. i bought it with 770 hrs 9 years ago and would pretty much run non stop for 4weeks every summer, so my number is a rough estimate.

Edited by malibucanuck
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383 is a good engine, if done correctly. Dropping a 400 crank in a 350 block isn't as easy as doing a simple 350 crank. There are more clearance and balancing issues. Unless you really need the extra power, I'd stick with a 350. Simple and easier to get right. Not saying your engine builder didn't do it right, but for reliability and longevity a 350 will run slower piston speeds and in general be easier on itself. I'd like to hear what others have to say as well. Personally, I would go with a 383 if I had to replace my engine, but would probably go with a chevy performance crate engine.

As for propping, not sure. It would help to know what you are running now and how it is working for you.

  • Like 1
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Prop change is in order only if you use the full output of the engine. I'm still running my original prop with the 385hp 388 that we did. If I get on it I can feel it slip. But it's got so much power that I simply don't need to get on it, so I'm going to finish up the year with the same old prop. Foot, surf, wakeboard, all no problem.

So I'd say do the engine, then use the boat and see how your prop performs before spending money on a new one.

Edit: but next year I am getting a different prop, probably start with testing out the 515 and seeing how that goes.

Edited by Michigan boarder
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I replaced a 350 with a 383 you won't need to change the prop. Far more torque just don't go for a high reving cam. I know a engine builder who brought a bare hull and his choice of motor was a 383 ( same guy who built mine) so in summary

1) more torque

2) existing starter carby etc bolt on

3) fits straight back in on existing mounts etc

4) sounds awesome

5) same prop will work

If my response blows up this will be what I go for.

though I would love the to put in a 409 but cost would kill that idea

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As long as you can weight the crank without unconventional practices I would have no problem. I can't believe clearance can be a big issue. All this said from someone who has not built Chevy's. I have done a lot of both stroking and destocking of Ford engines. This is also considering using a good crank nothing cheep.

JMHO.

Edited by Sixball
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@malibucanuck: what are your goals and objectives for an upgraded engine? What activities are you focused on? I notice the mill you are looking at has a peak hp level of 290 hp, which to me implies pre Vortec cylinder heads or perhaps a very mild cam. I would check on that if you plan on that path. Current SBC power outputs of over 310 hp are pretty much base level with the Vortec cylinder head. The engine in your boat does (or maybe did) have a specific marine cam, if you land on an automotive short block swap, I would certainly consider swapping cams. Your mods transferred over to the 383 might make an awesome package.

FYI: I upgraded my 265 hp mill with aluminum fast burn heads / intake / exhaust manifolds / ZZ4 cam and that is a great package for slalom and barefoot applications with plenty of surplus power for those activities. The additional cubes are beneficial for the high torque activities if those are a priority. To your question, yes I needed a different prop and went with an Acme prop (which I have tweaked on) due to prop slipping with the old CVP M+.

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Clearance from rods to block can be an issue from memory my block had to be shave a little for clearance. I to thought 290 seemed low why not change over the vortec heads. If it was me I would go stocker, alloy heads and closed cooling

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Malibucanuck, I see you are in Okotoks. I just had some engine work done in Calgary at Firebolt Engines. Talk to Graham or Steve. They were excellent. I am sure they can help you out at a reasonable cost. I was in and out in 3 days.

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A 383 really won't make much more hp than a 350, all else being equal. Heads are really key to making hp. What a 383 will do though is make more torque. It will end up making about the same hp, just at a lower rpm. Depending on your goals, this can be a very good thing. If you're a wakeboarder/surfer, running a bunch of ballast, the 383 really shines because most of the time your running 2500-3500 rpm and this is where this extra torque is.

With my home-brew 383, I am able to wakeboard or surf with 3000+lbs of ballast/people with the stock prop. It gets to 20mph in 6-8seconds and the old-school paddle wheel perfect pass is able to maintain speed. This then allows me to cruise at >30mph at a reasonable 3500 rpm.

If you're a barefooter, just go with the 350.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Back on the water by Friday!

Getting back on the water certainly trumps everything else.

Back when I was doing mine, I had plenty of time. I ended up with the 383, and its done everything I've asked of it. But, if I were to do it again, I would go with a 454 (it's the testosterone talking).

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