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MalibuFiddler

Engine Stopping - 2004 Indmar Monsoon

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MalibuFiddler

Symptons:

The boat will run perfectly without any indication something is wrong and at an unpredictable and inconsistent duration it will simply die - no sputter, just flat out die in an instant as though the kill switch has been activated. When it dies, it seems to be after at least 20 mins of running however at times I have run the boat for a few hours with no shut down. When it does die, it may start right back up but more often it will start and die within a few seconds a few times. Earlier this summer, after a few failed starts, it would usually go ahead and start up and remain running. Recently, it seems that it may need to sit for an hour or more before it restarts. Once it does restart - there is no symptons until it dies again which may be 5 mins or next trip to the lake.

My suspicions:

The Perfect Pass unit attached to the hose at the rear of the engine compartment seems to be getting very hot. There is a rectangular brass, ribbed piece with a wire going in one end and out the other - I presume some sort of relay switch?? - Before I attempted to start the boat this morning, engine and all was cold - I turned the ignition to the 'on' position and the brass piece immediately began to get hot. Within a minute, uncomfortable to touch, after a few minutes, I could not maintain touch contact as it was near burning temp.

Is it possible that the Perfect Pass is beginning to fail as it gets hot and since it drives the throttle cable, is it possible that the Perfect Pass is simply becoming locked and disallowing fuel to the engine?

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GreenMan

Are you sure it's not just the lanyard switch failing? Do the gauges stop working at the same time as the engine? If so, it is almost certainly the lanyard switch - it's a common issue and many of them have been eliminated by joining all three wires together permanently. Try fiddling with it with the ignition on and see if it is 'hair trigger' at shutting down the gauges.

That gold coloured device on the PP actuator is a resistor that has the the cooling fins on it to dissipate heat and it does get very hot in normal service. The issue won't be your PP.

Edited by GreenMan

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tvano

able to crank when you have a no start? if that's the case greenman may be right wrt the kill switch

next time it's running right stay at the dock and go through the wire harness at the engine

gently twist, pull and push that engine harness attempting to isolate the area that may be intermittent

after a decade of use on the water all of those connectors are beginning to show signs of age

one poor connector and you are dead in the water

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MalibuFiddler

I bypassed the kill switch.

I also installed a new ignition as the original had begun to get a little difficult to turn.

There was one time that we were wakeboarding using the perfect pass. All seemed well as far as I noticed until we turned the 6 tower lights on - at which time, the perfect pass display began to wig out. We turned the lights off and it seemed to go back to normal but every time we turned the lights on - perfect pass display would act like it was turning on or just non-sensical display read-out. I am wondering if the perfect pass is not the power hog (recall the brass piece is getting very hot) and when the lights get turned on, it can no longer feed itself??

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MalibuFiddler

New and strong battery. Plenty of crank. No fire.

I also have a new starter that was installed this spring.

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MalibuFiddler

The gauges are unaffected by the engine dying. I have looked at, disconnected and re-connected the wiring plug that has the 3 fuses in it - all good fuses. There is another harness plug in the same area - again, looks fine. Even the main rubber plug that has like 9 pins that go into the side of the area with the breaker button - no corrosion, looks clean.

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justgary

Check the ground connection at the engine. Since you have other possible power trouble, check the power and ground connections under the dash as well.

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GlassMaster

I wouldn't rule out a failing fuel pump. If you can, check your fuel pressure when it is running fine and again when it won't start. It should stay in the 58-62 PSI range.

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malibu2004

My buddy had the exact same issue on his 04 VLX with a monsoon. It was the rotor cap.

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babsin

finally goton the water after a wet summer & boat ran fine as usual. stopped and played for a while. restarted it & ran for 10 seconds & stopped like someone turned it off. Tried to restart and it would crank but no fire. Could smell gas but no fire. Tried to mess lanyard but nothing changed. Ideas? 2004 LSV.

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MalibuFiddler

My Malibu dealer has replaced almost every electrical component on my boat that affects the engine. Down to the spark plugs. I took it out, $650 & 40 minutes later - it died. Had to be towed in again.

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MalibuFiddler

In other words - I have yet to find a solution.

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luddy

it could be a loose wire connection some were in your wiring harness. I had a loose wire connection between my ignition module and coil It played up for 6 months evry time I played with the wires ( cleaning the terminals )it came good then it would play up again .

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electricjohn

have you ruled out the ign module in the distributor?

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malibu2004

So it turns over but no spark at the spark plugs? Have you called motor manufacturer?

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MattMatt

I'll 2nd GlassMaster. You need to install a fuel pressure gauge. When I was chasing a similar problem on a Volvo penta I left the fuel pressure guage installed for a couple of days until I could duplicate the problem (which in that boat was an intermittent fuel pump failure). I would also keep a spare spark plug (or better yet a spark tester) so that as soon as it dies you can check for spark.

Just for fun, can you post the dealer invoice on what they replaced? Sounds like they were just throwing parts at it hoping something would stick.

Good Luck

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DB4x4s

A bit of a long shot, but I was chasing a problem with the same symptoms in my 2004 LSV Monsoon 340 this past summer as well. It ran fine, but died randomly. I bypassed the lanyard on the water. That didn't fix it. Called the parts store and the ignition control module and coil were $80 so I bought both with my fingers crossed and went right back to the water. Same problem... Died before my buddy parked the truck. We finally called it a day.

One evening that week, I pulled the boat out and luckily it wouldn't start in my driveway. I tore into it and checked everything I could possibly think of. I was dreading it being a faulty computer after not finding any corrosion or loose connectors. Finally, I traced it back to the fuel fuse. The fuse wasn't blown, but cracked (where it would normally blow). I didn't spend much time on the fuses because the power would return. It might be worth a second (and close) look at your fuses. I hope this helps.

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sic0048
On August 2, 2015 at 6:08 PM, MalibuFiddler said:

I bypassed the kill switch.

I also installed a new ignition as the original had begun to get a little difficult to turn.

There was one time that we were wakeboarding using the perfect pass. All seemed well as far as I noticed until we turned the 6 tower lights on - at which time, the perfect pass display began to wig out. We turned the lights off and it seemed to go back to normal but every time we turned the lights on - perfect pass display would act like it was turning on or just non-sensical display read-out. I am wondering if the perfect pass is not the power hog (recall the brass piece is getting very hot) and when the lights get turned on, it can no longer feed itself??

 

I hope you found the issue.  

 

That at being said, I had to laugh at this post.  PP is certainly voltage sensitive.  If you don't feed it enough power, it will act up.  But PP is not the current hog, it's the 6 tower lights you were using at the same time.  Those things eat power up like crazy and apparently your system wasn't able to keep up and feed PP a high enough voltage when they are turned on.

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Marksa1458

Had bad spark plug wires that did something similar once. As soon as I replaced engine ran perfect. 

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