Low Battery signal but no other symptoms

[1HELLUVALIFE]

3 hours ago, MLA said:

Main battery switch, "Perko" as you call it? Did you then check to see what level of voltage made it to the battery(s)? 

Something not making sense here. Alternator supply should come to the same switch terminal as the helm and everything else, draw off of. What circuit(s) did you actually bypass the switch, with. 

The Battery selector or whatever its called, I took it out and wired everything to just one  battery. and had no issue the last time out.( I haven't had a lot of time to get the boat out recently and test)  Before with the battery selector inplace i was only getting 12.62 at the battery while the engine was running and no other draw, it never dropped or gained. everywhere else i tested was getting 13.85 plus.  By the way it has worked flawless for 2 or 3 years until this season. Also when this first started i went ahead and replaced the battery since it had some age. same result. 

 

Boat is back home for the season so i will have some time to test.

I guess next step is to check voltage at dash? ignition switch? also check over the grounds? 

any suggestions

Edited October 13, 2019 by 1HELLUVALIFE

[MLA]

14 hours ago, 1HELLUVALIFE said:

Alternator is putting out the correct voltage all the way up to the switch 

See, here's where it does not make sense. This the voltage the perfect pass would be receiving with engine running. So taking the switch out, would certainly not increase the voltage to the perfect pass. Unless the helm is wired direct to the battery. 

If you had proper alternator voltage to the common post of the switch with engine running, but measured battery voltage at the battery, the issue would be the switch or one of the battery cables. Touching the meter lead to the input post to which the switch was turned to, would eliminate switch or prove it to be the issue. 

[1HELLUVALIFE]

6 hours ago, MLA said:

See, here's where it does not make sense. This the voltage the perfect pass would be receiving with engine running. So taking the switch out, would certainly not increase the voltage to the perfect pass. Unless the helm is wired direct to the battery. 

If you had proper alternator voltage to the common post of the switch with engine running, but measured battery voltage at the battery, the issue would be the switch or one of the battery cables. Touching the meter lead to the input post to which the switch was turned to, would eliminate switch or prove it to be the issue. 

That's what i thought about the common post. Thats why i bought a new battery, thinking it was older and drawing down the volts just enough to cause perfect pass to reboot. Hopefully can take a look this weekend and check some voltage. Im thinking it maybe something between the common post and the dash.

Might just drag it down to you over the winter. I need to redo some ballast pumps as well. 

Edited October 13, 2019 by 1HELLUVALIFE