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Oil Change - How important is it to run the engine before?


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Anyone ever used one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EH4UXM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Seems like the solution I need for pouring tranny fluid straight from the 1Q bottles. As I mentioned above, my tranny dip stick is hard to reach.

If you haven't got a fluid syringe, these are the next best thing - I think.

http://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lubrimatic-Standard-Bottles/dp/B000BQW5LK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1437694954&sr=8-1&keywords=gear+oil+pump

I use one of these, easy to measure what you suck out and then just fill it with the same amount to put it back in.

WP_20141001_002.jpg

This is the bigger version

http://www.amazon.com/Sealey-Inspection-Syringe-Litre-VS405/dp/B00BTYPC0E

Edited by oldjeep
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Milk jug, ziplock and let me add one more... I like to use aluminum foil. Just fold up the edges and you have a shallow maneuverable tray. Of course it is only for small spills!

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doubled up Walmart bags pulled up high even with the remote oil filter bracket. Spin it 3x, then slide the bags over and take it off. Nothing else rigid would fit into the spaces under my filter. Certainly not a milk jug.

My sea strainer wasn't conveniently located either... Only one bolt holds in in place... When removed it drops down a bit, just fine, and also gives you much easier access to the 1/2"NPT Allen nut under the Vdrive that drains the tranny for wknterization.

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doubled up Walmart bags pulled up high even with the remote oil filter bracket. Spin it 3x, then slide the bags over and take it off. Nothing else rigid would fit into the spaces under my filter. Certainly not a milk jug.

My sea strainer wasn't conveniently located either... Only one bolt holds in in place... When removed it drops down a bit, just fine, and also gives you much easier access to the 1/2"NPT Allen nut under the Vdrive that drains the tranny for wknterization.

This is what I try to do on most any engine, bag it as it comes off. Usually works well.

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How you guys doing the large zip lock? I put it over the filter once it is lose enough for hand but as soon as any oil spills in the bag it is slippery as heck & very difficult to spin the filter off. I get it done but not without using words of curse & sending more time than I should

  • Like 2
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I do the same as old jeep and greenman. The only difference is that I run it for a bit before I pull her out of the water and drain over night. Did the same with my old boat and never had any issues.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Cory - Thanks for the info posted in this thread, I was curious to how the first oil change went with the mity-vac? I have ordered all the items that you posted and ready to do my 50+ hour change. Also wanted to know if you could post a picture / info of the brass fitting that you purchased to tie the MIty vac to the oil drain line.

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In the past I've used a pela extractor which is only 6L. MP LS3 is 10Q of Mobil 1. ($70 oil change even buying the child labor version of Mobil1 from Walmart!). So I just run the drain line through the bottom of the boat into an oil drain pan overnight. Works good.

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I got a new oil extractor pump from my in-laws for Christmas that I'm eager to give a try. My old one would only hold 4 quarts so I had to stop midway, dump the oil into a container, reconnect and resume. This one:

http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7201-Fluid-Evacuator-Plus/dp/B0002SR7TC/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1437685781&sr=8-9&keywords=oil+extractor+pump

is large enough to do the whole engine and it has a valve to reverse pump the oil out of the container. I'm hoping it is mess free. I have brass fittings that I long ago purchased at HD to thread these pumps onto the oil drain hose.

I have this pump and it seems to work well so far. I have even used it on the cars and it does the job.

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Cory - Thanks for the info posted in this thread, I was curious to how the first oil change went with the mity-vac? I have ordered all the items that you posted and ready to do my 50+ hour change. Also wanted to know if you could post a picture / info of the brass fitting that you purchased to tie the MIty vac to the oil drain line.

You need to get a barb to thread fitting, then go from there. I'm talking about something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Weatherhead-1068X6-Mini-Barb-Fitting-Adapter/dp/B00VG3JL9G/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1438970749&sr=8-15&keywords=mini+barb+fitting

I had one that came with an old fluid evacutor that I own. The one I have goes from a small hose to a threaded garden hose adapter. I then went to Home Depot and purchased thread adapters/reduces to get from a 3/4" female thread down to the male thread on the drain hose connected to the engine. I believe (but don't quote me) the drain hose on the engine is a 3/8" NTP male thread. I could be wrong.

Edited by Cory
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They seem to get stuck no matter what. I spin on by hand and wind up crushing with a big channel locks to get off every year.

Something about boats. I have noticed the same thing.

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How you guys doing the large zip lock? I put it over the filter once it is lose enough for hand but as soon as any oil spills in the bag it is slippery as heck & very difficult to spin the filter off. I get it done but not without using words of curse & sending more time than I should

I've found the exact same thing which is why I now use a milk jug cut in half.

  • Like 2
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  • 1 month later...

If your making a mess punch a hole in the bottom of the oil filter with a freezer zip lock bag to catch the oil. Once it's drained put a new zip lock bag under the filter and unscrew it.

I changed my engine oil, transmission oil, vdrive oil, fuel filter and removed the impeller in about 1 hour this past weekend. I only spilled a little gas when I changed the fuel filter. I ran the boat while I washed it so the oil would drain easier with my drill pump.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I took a piece of brake tubing, sharpened the end, and attach it to my oil extractor. Then I pierce the side of the filter and let the extractor do its magic. Virtually zero mess and not even a chance of a mess.

Works like a champ.

Edited by Lance B. Johnson
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Definitely check the manual, which can be downloaded here for your particular year. The answer depends on which v-drive/trans you have. Best bet in my opinion is to just pull the dipsticks and see what is in each one now (ATF or oil)

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/page/specs.html

Tool wise I use this so that I can easily measure what I remove and replace with the same amount.

post-22501-0-72000300-1443194570_thumb.j

Edited by oldjeep
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They seem to get stuck no matter what. I spin on by hand and wind up crushing with a big channel locks to get off every year.

Beast mode!

Definitely check the manual, which can be downloaded here for your particular year. The answer depends on which v-drive/trans you have. Best bet in my opinion is to just pull the dipsticks and see what is in each one now (ATF or oil)

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/page/specs.html

Tool wise I use this so that I can easily measure what I remove and replace with the same amount.

attachicon.gifWP_20141001_002.jpg

What tool is that?

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what brand/type of vdrive oil & transmission oil you use?

I'm not sure what your vdrive oil will be. In my past boats it was the same as the tranny oil, but not so on my current boat.

Tranny: Valvoline ATF DEXRON-III (what I use)

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I've only had the oil filter sticking problem (boats and cars) with filters that have gasket at the outer edge of the filter. In addition to there being more gasket, just being farther out it (larger radius) requires more torque to break it loose. Torque is force x radius. If the gasket is farther out, it requires more filter crushing torque applied by the wrench to break it free.

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