Wetsounds 420 Noise...please help.

[kayakwv]

Shawndoggy: actually,When I tried the system at home last night, even when switched to Battery 1, no matter if key was in or not, the stereo still played.

David: I definitely want it wired correctly as intended, just concerned if I need to do it immediately; because I got the boat back last night; packing now; and leaving for the lake asap.

[shawndoggy]

Shawndoggy: actually,When I tried the system at home last night, even when switched to Battery 1, no matter if key was in or not, the stereo still played.

^^^^ that is right. It's just that the stereo is not draining battery 1.

The way it's wired is goofy/not ideal, but if you understand how it works, I wouldn't worry about running it as is for a while.

[David]

Just wait until the season end.

[MLA]

MLA,

If I just keep my Perko switch setup on ALL, what are the disadvantages? Is the audio then able to draw down battery 1 as well?

Thanks,

kayakwv

"ALL" has both batteries combined, so yes, the audio will draw from both. Not a huge deal while engine is running, but a liability when anchored.

[kayakwv]

^^but with the key and boat off, since the stereo is directly wired to batt 2, with separate switch, am I still drawing down batt 1? I understand that if I leave the perko on ALL and have the key counterclockwise to ACC that I would still be drawing off both batteries through the Perko, but with the key off, wouldn't the draw only be off the directly wired batt 2?

Edited July 29, 2015 by kayakwv

[shawndoggy]

^^but with the key and boat off, since the stereo is directly wired to batt 2, with separate switch, am I still drawing down batt 1? I understand that if I leave the perko on ALL and have the key counterclockwise to ACC that I would still be drawing off both batteries through the Perko, but with the key off, wouldn't the draw only be off the directly wired batt 2?

No; Yes

[kayakwv]

That's what I thought. As long as I have the boat off but with stereo on, I am only drawing down the stereo battery. If I need to have the key turned for other power, I need set to switch Batt 2, so as to not draw down Batt 1.

I was definitely confused when I found they wired it this way, so I'll probably rewire it correctly soon. I think they did everything they could think of to isolate/eliminate the noise.

Thanks

[MLA]

^^but with the key and boat off, since the stereo is directly wired to batt 2, with separate switch, am I still drawing down batt 1? I understand that if I leave the perko on ALL and have the key counterclockwise to ACC that I would still be drawing off both batteries through the Perko, but with the key off, wouldn't the draw only be off the directly wired batt 2?

key has zero to do with what draws from where. "BOTH" physically connects both batteries to each other through the switch.

[shawndoggy]

key has zero to do with what draws from where. "BOTH" physically connects both batteries to each other through the switch.

well sortof. If switch is on 1 and key is off, stereo could be drawing down 2, but accessories don't work. Key up so accessories come on, those accessories are drawing from battery 1 (or 2 or all depending on how the switch is set).

Edited July 30, 2015 by shawndoggy

[MLA]

well sortof. If switch is on 1 and key is off, stereo could be drawing down 2, but accessories don't work. Key up so accessories come on, those accessories are drawing from battery 1 (or 2 or all depending on how the switch is set).

No sort-of at all. If you are changing my wording and then disagreeing, I cant help yeah

If the main battery switch is on BOTH, then any draws drawing will draw from both batteries, regardless of which battery or switch post they are directly connected to.

Key just turns stuff on or off, but will not impact where it draws from

His post that I quoted had the word "ALL" in it, so that was what my post was answering.

If the stereo is on, main switch in #1 and key is on, both batteries are being drawn off of, although different loads and they are not connected.

If the switch is on #2, then loads would only draw from #2, unless there are loads directly wired to #1, which is possible. Dunno that.

[kayakwv]

looking at it all now, stereo draws from batt 2 all the time, unless it's set to ALL, then it draws from 1 & 2. Right now I'm listening to stereo with perko set to OFF and key out, so if the perko is functioning properly, batt 1 should be sitting full charge.

Except in the OFF, only tower speakers are running. In 1,2, and All, all speakers are running. Their Wiring job is perplexing.

Edited July 30, 2015 by kayakwv

[MLA]

Except in the OFF, only tower speakers are running. In 1,2, and All, all speakers are running. Their Wiring job is perplexing.

So main battery switch off and only EQ and tower amp are powered up? Not perplexing, just incorrect. You simply have audio gear drawing from different battery sources, which can invite the very noise you have been chasing.

[kayakwv]

Visually, the only connections on Batt 1 positive terminal go to perko switch and pro sport charger; negative terminal of Batt 1 has the connection to batt 2 and pro sport charger. That's it. I see no other connections to Batt 1.

[67King]

I was never able to get rid of the noise on my Axis. Ran better RCA cables, grounded the whole system directly to the battery, etc. Even put some of the RCA filters on the cables. Never could. Mine was whatever Wetsounds was selling in 2012, I think just a basic 420EQ, no bluetooth or any of that. Drove me nuts.

I am going to disagree with the majority here, and suggest you leave everything hooked up only to Battery 2. I use 1 exclusively for starting the boat, and 2 exclusively for stereo. If I listen to the stereo for too long with the boat off, I don't want to be stranded. Of course, I suppose if you forget to switch from both to 2 only when you turn off the boat and listen to the music, it will still draw from both. But generally, I don't want anything drawing from 1 so that I can be certain I can always start the boat.

[MLA]

67king,

if you have a dedicated stereo battery that the amps are hooked directly to, then it will go dead in a matter of time, whether anchored or running the boat. if you have a dual bank switch, it doesnt matter whether the amps are terminated to the C post of the switch or battery direct. You can isolate the main cranking battery from the stereo loads or you can run the risk of running both down banks down if the switch is left in the wrong position when anchor is dropped. Eliminated noise has everything to do with where the gear is terminated. Not running the main cranking dead has more to do with how the switch is used.

If wired right and the switch is used correctly, one will never have a dead cranking do to anchoring.

[67King]

67king,

if you have a dedicated stereo battery that the amps are hooked directly to, then it will go dead in a matter of time, whether anchored or running the boat. if you have a dual bank switch, it doesnt matter whether the amps are terminated to the C post of the switch or battery direct. You can isolate the main cranking battery from the stereo loads or you can run the risk of running both down banks down if the switch is left in the wrong position when anchor is dropped. Eliminated noise has everything to do with where the gear is terminated. Not running the main cranking dead has more to do with how the switch is used.

If wired right and the switch is used correctly, one will never have a dead cranking do to anchoring.

I was not clear. I have both batteries hooked up to a (single bank) switch. I make a practice of using 1 to crank it, 1&2 to run it (which will charge both), and 2 when anchoring. If I forget to move the switch off of 1, and anchor, and still forget to move off of 1, then I am not at risk to run down my battery while anchored. Of course if I leave it on 1&2, then I can put myself at risk. But by hooking up to the common point on the switch, one is only protected if they run off of one battery, and use the second as an emergency backup. But even then it would require that the boat be run in 1&2 periodically to maintain a charge. There is no inherent advantage in wiring to the switch, instead of the battery. There is no way to completely remove the risk that human error would introduce. But the use of a dedicated battery is slightly more robust.

All my grounds terminated at battery 2.

[David]

Without giving it much thought I can instantly think of at least a half dozen reasons to wire a dual battery switch as it was designed/intended to be used.

[MLA]

Your first post was crystal clear, this one is the confusing one. Your configuration forces you to run on both. Wiring all loads to the common post, allows you to run on 1, 2, or both. Both configurations are 100% manual and both allow for the risk of running the main cranking down while at anchor.

There is no inherent advantage in wiring to the switch, instead of the battery.

Wiring to the C post of the switch can insure that all electronics see the same voltage reference

Wiring to the C post of the switch allows for both batteries to be lsolated from all draws when off.

[67King]

Without giving it much thought I can instantly think of at least a half dozen reasons to wire a dual battery switch as it was designed/intended to be used.

I must be having a very hard time communicating, as that is exactly what I did. As a matter of fact, I never even touched it (factory installed) on my VLX. Furthermore, the manufacturers of said amplifiers powered by the battery will nearly universally instruct the installers to power it DIRECTLY THE THE BATTERY (albeit with a fuse). Certainly Wetsounds does (as I just double checked it).

Of course, on my Axis, only battery 2 was an Optima, which is much more suited to being used while the engine is not running than the other batteries.

[67King]

Your first post was crystal clear, this one is the confusing one. Your configuration forces you to run on both.

Obviously it wasn't clear, as my configuration does no such thing.

[sikvlx]

The wetsounds ws420 bt is garbage..... The original ws420 is much better... I have the bt and it has noise and the rca connections keep cutting out... Very disappointed in wetsounds products... I switched to the Audiocontrol dqdx and the noise went away and the signal is cleaner and stereo is much louder.... I have all wetsounds cabin speakers and towers and I will never buy anything from wetsounds other than their tower speakers.... I have 4 cabin speakers with cracked cones and wetsounds told the store I bought them from that they were going to warranty them and a week later they called them back and changed their mind .... I have replaced all my wetsounds cabin speakers and amps with Jl audio cabin speakers and amps... Also the xxx v2 are very disappointing as well..... Not impressed with wetsounds anymore but I hope u get your noise situation fixed