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jklein

Discussion: Winterization & Parts

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jklein

For those of you who do your own maintenance, this is what I use on my BU's Monsoon. I live in NorCal and don't do a full winterization, so your procedures may vary depending on your location. This is FYI only and I do not make any warranties with respect to any of this information. Use at your own risk.

My BU: Biggrin.gif

1997 Malibu Sunsetter, Direct Drive, Monsoon 320hp EFI Motor

Every 50 Hours:

Engine Oil: Valvoline Syn Power 20/50 Synthetic

Oil Filter: Napa Gold 1069

Once per season, usually after I've run the Stabil and ISO Heat out of my old gasoline:

Fuel Filter Cannister near engine: Napa 3481 (metal)

Fuel Filter Mini near gas tank: Napa 3033 (metal)

Spark Plugs: NGK BPR6EFS (Gapped at 0.045 per Indmar specification)

Cap / Rotor: Napa RR249 / RR250

Impellar: skidim.com part number 0714 (replace before 1st start of the season)

Every 100 Hours:

Transmission fluid: Valvoline / Dextron III

Ballast Pumps:

Jabsco Ballast Puppys:

1. After filling / reverse direction for 1 second so impellar is flipped to drain direction for next use.

2. After draining / reverse direction for 1 second to impellar is flipped to fill direction for next use.

Other stuff:

1. Check packing nut for leakage rate - one drop every 5 to 10 seconds

2. Lube Rudder mechanism with marine grease

3. Remove battery connections at end of season, store batteries

4. Lube Trailer bearings... not too much though with marine grease

5. Lube Trailer hitch mechanism.

6. Check Brake fluid in trailer master cylinder - Replace every other year.

7. Check Trailer lights occasionally.

8. Fill tank with gas at end of season and add Stabil to protect gasoline.

9. Use ISO heat in gasoline at start of season to remove any water that might have accumulated due to condensation over the layup period.

Edited by jklein

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BarefootOz

Jklein,

Is that distributor cap marine application?... Dontknow.gif

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jklein

Nope. I replace it every year anyway and I don't consider CA a highly corrosive environment.

It's not a bad idea about 3/4 the way through the summer season (assuming 100 hrs per year) to pull the cap, sand the tip of the roter a little with some fine (200 grit) sandpaper to remove any build up. At the same time spray a little WD-40 into the cap onto the contacts, then dry with a clean soft cloth. It will ensure you're getting nice solid power through those contacts.

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D-GOOSE

Don't forget to check your battery water level.

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Pistol Pete
spray a little WD-40 into the cap onto the contacts, then dry with a clean soft cloth.

Just so you know, WD-40 is flamable so, you're gonna want to dry it really good. I'd use some contact cleaner then blow dry gently with compressed air.

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HRemington

aren't we jumping the gun just a hair on the winterization blog? Let's go summerize the fool out of 'em first. Yahoo.gif

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whiteVLX
aren't we jumping the gun just a hair on the winterization blog? Let's go summerize the fool out of 'em first. Yahoo.gif

Nope, there's a lot of folks down under who might be thinking it's time to put em away about now. But not me! :0

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VinRLX
aren't we jumping the gun just a hair on the winterization blog? Let's go summerize the fool out of 'em first. Yahoo.gif

I'm already making a list of what I need for winterization. Where I live that could be tomorrow. Right Hank?

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NvBoarder

last item on list of things to do:

Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left

Why? whats the reasoning behind this.

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WakeGirl

It pulls the cable all the way in so that there isn't any that could be exposed to the elements. Supposedly it helps prolong the life of the cable. YMMV

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WaveMake'nLSV

If you pull the hoses, per the manual, etc...including the fresh water intake hose and hose to the waterpump, do you still have to drain the v-drive? Am concerned that I should have done it and didn't. Not going to freeze in the foresee-able future, so I have plenty of time to deal with it...but was reviewing the indmar .pdf today and it said to drain the water from the vdrive?

TIA as always!

Scott

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oneramirez

How much "winterization" is required in a place like TX?

We're moving to the San Antonio area this summer from CA and we have no experience with freezing temps.

Does it get cold enough for long enough in San Antonio to require draining the engine block before the dead of winter?

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smedman

Hi Ramirez,

Welcome to TX -- if you are already here. Wasn't sure if you count November as "summer" - as it has been in the 80s here in Austin --- until yesterday. We moved here from Cali a couple of years ago and although the first 6-8 months was really hard - missing friends / family, the beach, etc. -- now we really have no desire to go back to CA.

Anyway, definitely got below freezing the past two nights but only to about 30 or so. From what I've heard, it takes a day or two of below freezing temps to freeze the water in the engine block. This morning for example there is frost on the ground / cars ect. I also left a bottle of water outside last night. Not even a thin layer of ice on the inside (or outside) of the bottle.

Anyway - we aren't planning on winterizing here as we'll be using the boat through Dec - Jan - Feb -- but I'm going to put a "drop light" in the engine compartment on some of those really cold nights (we usually get 3 or 4) just to sleep ok.

By the way, if you haven't heard, there is a new owner at Central Texas Water Sports here in Austin -- he is talking of opening a small shop in San Antonio late next year...

Edited by smedman

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1999responselxlostlake

IS IT NECCESARY TO FOG THE ENGINE IF YOU HAVE EFI???

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BlastRlxi

Yes, you still want to fog the engine with EFI.

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Ozkar

You would actually store tank stabilized half full. This way in the spring you can add half a tank of fresh gas with fresh octane. ISO heat is a myth since it's alcohol. Our fuel today is at least 10 percent ethyenol anyway. Just Stabil in the fall, and good high test fuel in the spring.

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medicdiver

Any idea on the parts for a 2003 Malibu Sportster 335 Monsoon??

Are the oil filter, cap rotor, plugs all the same as the one listed above??

Going to get parts to do soon, nights are in the 40's now

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tvano

re: fogging the engine.

i've been wondering if one of my assumptions is true.

i like the idea of spinning the engine after fogging but i don't want the injectors washing the oil from the cylinder walls.

i pull the kill switch before i spin it, assuming it stops the injectors from spraying.

is that assumption correct?

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