steering cable change lxi

[footndale]

The other is for rotary helm. My bad. 

[Deke]

I just wanted to thank @oldjeep for posting this write-up. It helped me immensely when changing the cable in my 99 RLX this week. Cutting off the old rack was key!

Here's a question for everyone who has done this job... It was mentioned that there is a washer or two on the bottom part of the stud that holds the cable "eye" at the tiller. Mine did not have any washers. There was enough room on the shoulder for two washers so I added one above and one below the cable "eye", snugged the nylock, then backed it off enough to allow the cable to rotate around the stud.

• Are two washers correct?
• Was the original no washers correct?
• Should there only be one washer with the nylock tightened against the shoulder of the stud?

I am now worried that I may have created a misalignment of the cable between the cable block and the tiller. Or, that not tightening the nylock against the shoulder could cause it the loosen.

[oldjeep]

It has been a few years since I did this.  But reading what I wrote, I believe that there were 2 washers in the whole setup.  One on top of the steering cable - so stud/cable/washer/nut.  And one against the steering arm holding the stud on - so stud through top of steering arm/washer/nut.

I suspect the reason you had to back off the nylock was because you put a washer under the cable eye.  I do not believe that should be there.  You should be able to snug the nut all the way down and have the steering function.

Should also mention that I doubt that the washer on top of the steering cable would fit over the shoulder.  It would stop on the top of the shoulder.

Edited September 29, 2020 by oldjeep

[Deke]

@oldjeep that makes sense. My thought on the top nut was that since it is to hold the stud tight to the tiller, I didn't add a washer there. But the shoulder where the cable rides was quite a bit longer than the thickness of the cable so I added two there. Now I'm worried about not having the nut tightened against anything.

[oldjeep]

10 minutes ago, Deke said:

@oldjeep that makes sense. My thought on the top nut was that since it is to hold the stud tight to the tiller, I didn't add a washer there. But the shoulder where the cable rides was quite a bit longer than the thickness of the cable so I added two there. Now I'm worried about not having the nut tightened against anything.

I suspect that you would be fine with 0 washers.  The one that holds the stud to the arm would be there because normally when you put a nut on something you stick a washer under it   The one over the cable would be to protect the nut from the cable as it turns and potentially rubs

[Smitdog266]

I would like to thank @oldjeepand everyone else that has contributed to this thread! I'm having a steering slop and alignment issue with my 2005 Response LXi, and prior to finding this thread wouldn't have any idea on how to fix it - other than spending $$$ for a dealer to do it.

In the original post there is a link to helpful images, but for some reason the images aren't display / links not working.

Since one picture is worth 1000 words (!), anyone know how to get the links fixed or how I can get to the images?

Thank you!

[oldjeep]

4 minutes ago, Smitdog266 said:

I would like to thank @oldjeepand everyone else that has contributed to this thread! I'm having a steering slop and alignment issue with my 2005 Response LXi, and prior to finding this thread wouldn't have any idea on how to fix it - other than spending $$$ for a dealer to do it.

In the original post there is a link to helpful images, but for some reason the images aren't display / links not working.

Since one picture is worth 1000 words (!), anyone know how to get the links fixed or how I can get to the images?

Thank you!

Well, I do actually have the original images.  Let me see if I can just fix that first post

 

Looks like it worked

Edited April 14, 2021 by oldjeep

[Smitdog266]

5 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

Well, I do actually have the original images.  Let me see if I can just fix that first post

Looks like it worked

WOW! That was fast! Thanks @oldjeep.

Now off to order the parts...

 

[oldjeep]

2 minutes ago, Smitdog266 said:

WOW! That was fast! Thanks @oldjeep.

Now off to order the parts...

 

Just be aware that there are 2 main things that cause slop in boat steering - the cable and the steering tilt unit.  I ultimately replaced both in my inlaws LXI, because their tilt unit was worn out too.

Edited April 14, 2021 by oldjeep

[Woodski]

As noted by old jeep, the tilt unit is one area that allows play in the steering.  I have found two contributors, first one only costs time, the universal joint fastener (through bolt with a nyloc nut tends to loosen and a small amount allows slop, and as noted they do wear out and simply need replacing.  The tiller fastener also tends to loosen so check that.  You can do your own check, helpful with a second set of hands, one to hold the rudder while the other rocks the wheel to locate the loose parts.

While talking steering cables, a common wear out item, I have found a great way to extend the life is to treat them as a maintenance item as follows:   with the tiller end of the cable held vertically and the dust cover pulled up, pour a few drops of ATF down the gap or outer sleeve to cable area.  work the wheel back a forth and do this a few times.  Makes a world of difference and on a cable that is starting to show potential stiffening can save it.  The rotary style steering box can also be lubricated as the backing plate is removable, marine grease works there.  Those two steps can make the old style systems darn near as light as the latest free spinning ones.

Another area that can influence steering effort or in particular notchy steering are the rudder bushings.  As they wear the rudder can and will become stiff to turn and show signs of locking at certain steering angles.  New bushings and / or correcting vertical play helps smooth that aspect of the steering.

[Deke]

I have a followup question after replacing my cable and helm last fall. The new tilt-helm was slightly different than the old one and I ended up not being able to align the wheel perfectly with the rudder. One tooth either way on the pinion doesn't do it. So the question is, can I adjust this small amount at the sleeve where the cable is mounted at the rudder end?

[oldjeep]

7 minutes ago, Deke said:

I have a followup question after replacing my cable and helm last fall. The new tilt-helm was slightly different than the old one and I ended up not being able to align the wheel perfectly with the rudder. One tooth either way on the pinion doesn't do it. So the question is, can I adjust this small amount at the sleeve where the cable is mounted at the rudder end?

Is the steering wheel centered when you are going straight at speed?

[Deke]

4 hours ago, oldjeep said:

Is the steering wheel centered when you are going straight at speed?

No, that is the issue. So if I try to adjust the pinion one tooth either way on the rack, it is still not straight. I am wondering if using the cable tube would be the right way to get the "fine adjustment" after getting to the closest tooth.

[oldjeep]

6 minutes ago, Deke said:

No, that is the issue. So if I try to adjust the pinion one tooth either way on the rack, it is still not straight. I am wondering if using the cable tube would be the right way to get the "fine adjustment" after getting to the closest tooth.

That would be the way to do it if it bugs you enough

 

[Woodski]

@Deke - yes on the cable tube although if it is serrated that may also not get you close enough.  Some steering wheel hubs actually have 3 slots for the keyway which aligns the wheel slightly differently.  When you make any adjustments to the cable or rack, keep track that the wheel will go left and right the same amount after you change your connection and that you don't create an overcenter potential on the rudder.  If your wheel has the six attachment screws, when you end up completely frustrated, add another set of threaded holes in the hub which adds another degree of wheel alignment, or if the wheel has a cover ring, simply add six holes in the wheel.

[Alski]

Is there a way to access the through bolt for the universal joint on the helm?  I have a lot of play in that area of the steering. Thanks.

[oldjeep]

11 minutes ago, Alski said:

Is there a way to access the through bolt for the universal joint on the helm?  I have a lot of play in that area of the steering. Thanks.

You have to remove the steering wheel so that you can remove the black rubber boot that covers the tilt unit.

Unlikely that there is going to be a loose bolt, but worth a shot I guess.  The ones I have looked at and replaced it has been various bushings and the u-joint itself that has been worn out.  So I just replaced the tilt unit which is around $120 if you do some shopping around.

 

Edited May 5, 2021 by oldjeep

[Alski]

Thanks! Is there a better place to find a replacement than Discount Inboard Marine?

[oldjeep]

15 minutes ago, Alski said:

Thanks! Is there a better place to find a replacement than Discount Inboard Marine?

Amazon is where I bought the last 2.  But your best bet is to find your part number and then google it to find the best deal

Edited May 5, 2021 by oldjeep

[Alski]

Thanks!  

[Smitdog266]

On 7/21/2020 at 10:22 AM, Joeprunc said:

• When you remove the rack double check where the washers go.  They should go between the rack and pinion to provide a gap.

FYI - When I disconnected the helm rack on my 2005 Malibu Response LXi, the washers were directly underneath the bolt head, and not between the rack and pinion plates.... Hence, no gap. It came from the factory like this.

[Smitdog266]

Some additional advice after having just replaced the steering cable, rack & pinion, and tilt mechanism on my 2005 Malibu Response LXi:

1. The absolutely hardest part was getting the rudder bolt off the rudder / old steering cable and getting it back on the new one. Like others have mentioned, you should turn the rudder (by hand) so that the top bolt is as far away as possible from the stern so that you can get it as close to you as possible, and use a ratchet wrench to unscrew it. It's still very difficult as you can't see what you're doing, and the space is very tight. Once you have the top bolt off, turn the rudder so that the bolt is as close to the stern as possible. This will allow you to push down on the stiff steering cable just enough to pull the bolt down to release it from the rudder connector. Then bring the steering cable as close to you as possible to get the bolt off the steering cable end so that you can pull it through the guide sleeve. (reverse process with when attaching the new cable to the rudder)
2. To pull the new cable through from helm to stern, I did not tape the new cable end to the cut off end of the old cable at the helm. Seemed to me that the end result would be too big of a diameter to snake it through cleanly. So I pulled the old cable out from the stern end, and tied a good nylon braided rope to the cut end at the helm. With the rope in place to help snake in the new cable, I first zip-tyed the nylon rope to the stern end of the new cable (at the helm), then duct taped it tightly. I also tightly zip-tyed the rope end just past the big nut on the new cable to keep the rope from slipping. The snaking actually went very easy, and took all of 2 minutes. (whereas I spent 45 minutes+ on the rudder bolt!).

Hope this helps.

[uk_exile]

Local Malibu dealer has just sold me a Seastar Solutions SSCX15415 so a 15 foot cable. Will it be long enough for the my 2003 Response LXi? I'm starting to think no......

[UWSkier]

19 hours ago, uk_exile said:

Local Malibu dealer has just sold me a Seastar Solutions SSCX15415 so a 15 foot cable. Will it be long enough for the my 2003 Response LXi? I'm starting to think no......

https://www.bakesonline.com/media/resourcelibrary/MalibuBoatsfitchart.pdf

Per Bakes chart you need a 19'.

Edited November 4, 2022 by UWSkier

[uk_exile]

Thanks @UWSkier I had a big look at weekend and couldn't see code the existing Taylor cable so measured it in boat as best I could. The supplied is definitely at least a metre short. I'll return it and ask for them to get me a 19 foot.