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gobble

Help! Out on the water and my boat broke and is taking in water

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gobble

My driver went from forward to reverse and something snapped. There's a big nut behind the transmission and whatever shaft was going through it is gone. Water came in faster than the bilge could drain it until we plugged the shaft.

Does anyone know what might be missing between the nut and the transmission? Is the shaft maybe broke or missing? I'm being towed right now so may see more when out of the water.

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ahopkinsVTX

The only shaft that comes out of your transmission is your prop shaft. And yes, if that is gone, you will take on water very fast. And not be able to move...

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GreenMan

Yes, it's serious!

Regardless of what has caused it (likely either coupling bolts or shaft retaining nut have come undone or shaft broken) it is probable that the prop has hit the rudder and caused other issues?

I'm sure by now it's on the trailer and you have some idea what is going on.

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gobble

The shaft went back and the prop was resting against the rudder but no damage.

Can anyone point me in a direction of how to fix it? Is it likely something broke or just wasn't tight?

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gobble

And the shaft appears to be all still there if I push the prop back forward.

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GreenMan

Does the forward end of the shaft have a taper, a keyway and a male thread visible? Or is it just kind of flat like this one in the thread linked below? This one is snapped off and the tapered section is still inside the driven coupling hub. He needs a new shaft.

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/55763-drive-shaft-snapped/

If yours still has the tapered end on it, the retaining nut has come off and will still be in the coupler. I think this scenario is very unlikely because there is a set screw that should prevent that nut from coming undone and, in some cases, the nut is a Nylok type.

Your prop may look OK but there is a high chance that at lease one blade is deformed. It can be readily checked but if you're not that keen on a bit of mechanical analysis and repair you might need to take it to the shop? Maybe insurance will cover it?

Edited by GreenMan

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GreenMan

The drive end of the shaft should look something like this:

DSCN1658_zps5980fdc5.jpg

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GreenMan

This (attempts) to show the retaining nut on the shaft inside the coupler and the set screw that screws in from the periphery of the hub onto the nut to stop it undoing. Sorry'bout the lousy focus but you should get the idea...

DSCN1670_zps8e951926.jpg

DSCN1669_zps0c845ad5.jpg

Edited by GreenMan

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GreenMan

Were you just idling around or did 'your driver' engage reverse at 40 mph?

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gobble

My shaft looks like the picture. It's tapered, has a key slot, and has the threads.

I was in the water and he was coasting by to pick me up. He came in a little too hot and engaged reverse to slow down. He said he stopped in neutral first but who knows.

So I probably need a new key (or is it just the set screw?) and need to figure out how to re-attach this? Question, how does the shaft seal through the boat, I guess by way of that packing nut?

Edited by gobble

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GreenMan

Hmmm. Even if the driver paused in neutral, if the boat is still tearing along, the prop is still 'windmilling' forward in the water. Engaging reverse will somewhat quickly change direction / rpms of the shaft that has a reasonably heavy flywheel (prop) on the end of it. Pretty hard on the tranny and shaft...

Anyway, I'm guessing that it has sheared the drive key and stripped out the brass retaining nut. Maybe there are traces of the brass nut threads in the threads of your shaft? Maybe half a key in the keyway?

You need to get the coupler off and see what's going on in there. Likely going to need a key and a nut. Hopefully the shaft is OK. When yu get all that back together a test drive should quickly reveal vibration if the prop is deformed.

The seal is just packing material in the gland nut. Should be OK.

The coupler is just held on with the four bolts / nuts.

Need to make sure the keyways in the shaft and hub are clean and not deformed. Fit the key into the shaft, fit the hub to the shaft, install the nut (after first backing out the set screw to get clearance) then nip up the set screw to the nut. Bolt the coupler back onto the tranny.

Then remind your driver to wait until the boat is all but stationary before engaging gears.

Edited by GreenMan

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gobble

Ok thanks I'll dig into it tomorrow.

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GreenMan

No worries. Good luck!

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GreenMan

Might need a wire brush to clean out the thread on the shaft. Make sure the new nut screws onto the shaft OK before you assemble it all. The thread may have sustained some damage on it's tour out of the hub.

Edited by GreenMan

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MystiikVLX

How and what did you use to plug the leak when it happened?

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elDax

Although it may not seem like it at the moment, man you are lucky...this situation could have gone waaaaaaaaay worse than it did.

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gobble

We used a towel to plug the shaft which worked great. It was a bit scary, but we did have the bilge pump on plus we had one of the wakemakers turbo ballast pumps if necessary. When this started I had all the tanks filled, plus two 750# piggyback sacks plus a 400# sack in the bow. After draining the bow we could have moved that pump to help in the back.. We were lucky this lake had a lake patrol that came 10 minutes after we called him.

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malibu2004

Welcome to the broken shaft club.

It's something you can do it your mechanically inclined.

Otherwise it's going to be around a grand to pay someone to fix it.

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gobble

The autopsy is the key sheared and the shaft and nut look fine. I ordered a new key and a new nut. Hopefully that's the extent of my problem.

Is my only way of buying parts from the dealer? I thought they'd stock something so simple but they have to order it then I need to drive there to get it. It would be much easier if there was someone that can ship to my house.

Edited by gobble

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Michigan boarder

The autopsy is the key sheared and the shaft and nut look fine. I ordered a new key and a new nut. Hopefully that's the extent of my problem.

Is my only way of buying parts from the dealer? I thought they'd stock something so simple but they have to order it then I need to drive there to get it. It would be much easier if there was someone that can ship to my house.

Just ask them to ship it to you, pay for it all up front and I'm sure they'd do it (at your cost).

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elDax

The autopsy is the key sheared and the shaft and nut look fine. I ordered a new key and a new nut. Hopefully that's the extent of my problem.

Is my only way of buying parts from the dealer? I thought they'd stock something so simple but they have to order it then I need to drive there to get it. It would be much easier if there was someone that can ship to my house.

These guys have always taken care of me...since my boat no longer has dealer support, lol. http://www.skidim.com/

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malibu2004

Make sure you align your shaft or it will break again.

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GreenMan

Make sure you align your shaft or it will break again.

His shaft didn't break...

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GreenMan

Good news re the outcome. Because you were in reverse when the key sheared, the nut has just screwed off the shaft, hence no damage. I hadn't thought of that possibility.

All you are wanting to buy is the key? Surely an overnight shipping could be arranged by your dealer or Bakes Marine or Skidim etc?

Alternatively, is there a local machine shop that might have some key stock or make one for you? If you took your coupler to a machine shop they might make one for you.

Do you have a spare prop available in case yours is bent? This link goes to a thread that describes an easy way to check if your prop or shaft are bent.

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/54882-how-much-vibration-is-common/?hl=vibration

Edited by GreenMan

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malibu2004

His shaft didn't break...

You're right about the shaft but the key broke for a reason. He should check his alignment is all I'm saying.

I guess you could also say I hadn't thought about the nut coming loose just like you.

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