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Asmodeus2112

Flush Valve, Hardwall tubing help and ideas please.

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Asmodeus2112

So, I bought a Perko flush valve without thinking this through. I have a SSLXi with a Mercruiser Black Scorpion. The raw water pump on the Merc is not in the same location as the typical Monsoon, it is low on the starboard side of the engin, so the distance from the raw water pick up to the inlet of the pump is about 12" of hose away, and not coaxial so it requires an S bend with about 15 degree bends. I don't expect many will have faced this issue, as this is an odd combination. So, my dilemma is that in that 12" of hose there is no way to install the Perko, the tube just doesn't have the bend radius to achieve it. I'm thinking of turning the 90 degree elbow to 90 degrees and run a longer length of hardwall hose under the engine, then back up to the water pump with the Perko in it. Or, the idea of putting a T ball valve in there, but there isn't much room for that and the flow selection lever to operate. Anyway, I have two main questions:

1.) Is it a mistake to try to loosen up the existing raw water intake fittings if I try to adjust the fitting angle or add a ball valve? Will I need to pull the whole thing out, re seal etc?

2.) Is it sloppy or problematic to run a long inlet hose 4'-5' that would come out from the inlet and do a large radius 360 degree circle under the engine and then up to the water pump?

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oldjeep

My father inlaws LXI has the same engine/pump.

My .02 on how I would handle it.

1) Return the perko thing

2) Put a T in the line somewhere between the hull valve and the pump

3) Put a valve and fitting on the other side of the T and run that to your hose fitting

And then just deal with the valves manually. If it is as tight as it is on the LXI then I don't know where I would put that big plastic perko valve.

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GreenMan

Number 2 sounds like the answer to me as long as the hose remains low - a loop under the engine would be fine. I wouldn't, for example, run it over the top of the engine.

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a92harley92

On my VLX I have a brass "T" after the hull valve with a 3/4 inch hose coming off of it. The 3/4 inch hose has a 3/4 inch male hose fitting on the end that is normally capped. To hook it up you just shut off the valve (so water doesn't go out the water inlet screen), uncap the 3/4 inch hose and hook your garden hose up with a double female house thread coupler. This contraption only takes up about 6 inches of space at the "T".

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GreenMan

My father inlaws LXI has the same engine/pump.

My .02 on how I would handle it.

1) Return the perko thing

2) Put a T in the line somewhere between the hull valve and the pump

3) Put a valve and fitting on the other side of the T and run that to your hose fitting

And then just deal with the valves manually. If it is as tight as it is on the LXI then I don't know where I would put that big plastic perko valve.

I like jeep's idea best. This is what I did on my RLXI - installed flushing point and inlet strainer. My previous boat had a Mercruiser and I understand the reduced hose length due pump location. I actually bought a Perko valve and then decided it was too hard to fit (neatly) and it's now taking up space in a cupboard...

DSCN1700.jpg

DSCN1713.jpg

DSCN1730.jpg

DSCN1734.jpg

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dalt1

C382E9DA-4703-4609-931C-6D8D8781E835_zpsA130D0CF-FC12-4E38-AB56-D76FC864233D_zpsThis what I used.

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minnmarker

Any problem with putting the T downstream from the V drive cooler? Between V drive and impeller? There's a lot more room there than beteen the thru hull and the V drive cooler. I would not think the V drive would need cooling if boat not in gear. I would just use this for winterization.

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minnmarker

I read all the debate about using antifreeze or not and thought I would post this:

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-65501-Yourself-Boat-Winterizer/dp/B0000AXQU2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1439233697&sr=8-1&keywords=boat+winterization+kit

I've got 4 boats: 1 inboard, 2 I/O, and 1 outboard and they all reside in Northern Wisconsin. The winterization kit in the link is really handy and I've never had freeze problems over 40+ boat winters.

Method:

Take out bilge plugs

Warm up using "earmuffs (I/O) or T in raw water line (inboard)

Change Oil

Take out thermostat and reassemble stat housing

Pull block drain plugs and the hose below water pump. Never bothered with draining the exhaust manifolds. Maybe start doing that?

Put plugs and hose back in/on.

Using "earmuffs (I/O) or T in raw water line (inboard) Run 3 or 4 gallons of RV antifreeze through the engine and start fogging at about gallon 3.

Put thermostat back in

Take out the battery

In the Spring put the battery and bilge plugs back in and launch

My question above is because I have no experience with a V Drive.

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oldjeep

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-65501-Yourself-Boat-Winterizer/dp/B0000AXQU2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1439233697&sr=8-1&keywords=boat+winterization+kit

Ah, the good old block cracking kit. Drain everything completely first and then either add antifreeze or don't. I do for corrosion protection.

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