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poplar111

trailer brakes don't release fully

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poplar111

We have a 2006 extreme trailer and when we back up a few times it seems that sometimes once you start towing after a few miles the brakes will get really hot because there dragging slightly, not noticeable while driving, just smoke from the brake pads after awhile. We drove this trailer 1000 miles no problem it wasn't until we backed it up once that this happens. Anyone out there had similar issues? We use a 2012 Chev diesel pickup for towing.

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MadMan

Does the surge brake actuator on the tongue of the trailer slide all the way out when towing?

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Falko

It is the plunger in the main brake actuator, it is hanging up and won't release. The tongue can come back out, but it isn't attached to the piston to pull it out, only pushes it in.

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D-GOOSE

If the brake line has a quick disconnect for removing the tongue it may not be fully connected and only letting fluid in the line and not back out.

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DirtTrailMedia

I just purchased a 2009 Malibu Sunscape LSV 20' and the Eagle trailer is experiencing this. The wheels get really hot as if the brake pads are sticking enough to generate the heat. After driving for 10 miles, you can't back up because the brakes lock up. When I went into the DMV to get license plates, an hour later I was able to backup, but wasn't before I went into the DMV. Then I drove home, another 10 miles and when I got home, I couldn't back into the driveway. Later that night, I took the wheel off to see if the pads were locked onto the rotor but I could spin the tire pretty easy. 

So I'm starting to think the issue is with the neck of the trailer sticking when I get on the brakes, causing the surge brakes to stick while driving, causing the wheels to get hot. Then when I stop and try to backup, that's causing the brakes to lock up in reverse. But even with that theory, wouldn't the solenoid kick in to turn the brakes off to backup?

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KeepingupwiththeJones

I would start by checking all your connections. When you can't back up are the reverse lights on the trailer coming on? If not you probably have a loose wire somewhere and the surge brakes are not disengaging when you try to back up. If you have a swing away tongue make sure to open it and check that connection too.

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jwl019

Is it a UFP A60 actuator? I just replaced my whole assembly for around $170, couldn't decide if it was the fluid reservoir or the shock so just replaced it all.  It was a pretty easy swap other than the bleeding process but finally got that right too. I ended up doing a spindle/hub/capiler/pad kit as well.  I have heard of some of the capilers sticking eventually, so that may be your problem if it is not the actuator.

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DirtTrailMedia

There aren't any reverse lights on the trailer. It does have a swing away tongue, I checked that this morning and no wires pinched or unplugged. If that were the case, I wouldn't ever be able to backup. I can backup, but only if I haven't been pulling the trailer. So if I were to hook up to it right now, I could back it up no problem. If I then go drive around with the trailer and bring it back, I can't backup. 

At first I thought it was caused by the disc brakes being locked up all the time, or "dragging" real bad, building up a LOT of heat driving around and then just kind of seizing up, but if you let it sit they cool down and don't grab as bad. However I checked a wheel last night and the discs aren't stuck, unless the pistons just take a few hours to back off after the surge brakes kick in. I'm about to hook up and take a trip around the neighborhood going up and down hills and then trying to backup and then jacking it up while it's hot and trying to spin a wheel.

I'm not sure what other parts of the brake system could be hanging up from driving around to keep the brakes activated and then over an hour or so backs off to let the pressure off the brake pads.... could the surge part of the hitch be sticking? I know there are a couple of grease fittings but they looked to be lubed prior to me getting it.

I did unplug and plug in the lights when the brakes were catching trying to back into my flat driveway, there is no gutter or incline to my cul-de-sac or driveway. So there's no reason for the brakes to engage backing up like they could going up a hill. I'm also going to stick a screwdriver in the hole to block the surge brakes when trying to back up to see if that fixes it to try and check things off of what it could be.

Edited by DirtTrailMedia

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Choiceind

The reverse lights of the towing vehicle is what engages the solenoid to allow to back the trailer up and not lock the trailer brakes up. I just replaced the entire actuator before this season. My problem was a sticky master cylinder so it would have a drag, and get so hot it would boil the wheel bearing grease and spit it out of the buddy bearing. I didnt know it at the time, but my 7 pin trailer wasnt sending the 12volt to the solenoid, which is the center pin on connector, so I spliced on to my reverse light and cut wire long enough on back of connector. So to test the solenoid disconnect electrical to trailer and see if the trailer brakes are locking up. Mine wasnt locking prior to finding out about no power. At this time I assumed master cylinder sticking. Easy way I guess is to make sure trailer is slid all the way up(brakes engaged) and jack up up rear wheel and spin it. And than find a hill and do the same thing. (brakes not engaged)

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DirtTrailMedia

The driver side trailer wheel did that, spit out grease after my trip to the weigh station and DMV yesterday morning. 

How can I test to see if I'm having the same issue with the sticking master cylinder? Or is that just something you replace to eliminator it being the cause of the sticking brakes?

I've got an adapter going from the flat 5 pin trailer plug to a round 7 pin. My F250 also has the 5 pin plug so I'm going to take the adapter out of the equation but that won't solve my sticking brakes but might fix the backing up issue that is random.

I just assumed since some times I can backup, that the plug wasn't the issue - am I wrong in assuming that? I tested the center pin on my truck plug and it's giving me 12 volts when in Reverse.

2 hours ago, jwl019 said:

Is it a UFP A60 actuator? I just replaced my whole assembly for around $170, couldn't decide if it was the fluid reservoir or the shock so just replaced it all.  It was a pretty easy swap other than the bleeding process but finally got that right too. I ended up doing a spindle/hub/capiler/pad kit as well.  I have heard of some of the capilers sticking eventually, so that may be your problem if it is not the actuator.

I'm not sure what actuator is on this trailer, I'll look in the morning.

Was it $170 for everything you did or was that just the cost for the assembly up in the tongue? 

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jwl019
15 minutes ago, DirtTrailMedia said:

Was it $170 for everything you did or was that just the cost for the assembly up in the tongue? 

Just for the assembly in the tongue. I spent about $1k total on 4 complete hub kits and actuator. 

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DirtTrailMedia
11 minutes ago, jwl019 said:

Just for the assembly in the tongue. I spent about $1k total on 4 complete hub kits and actuator. 

And no, it's not a UFP A60 actuator, here's a picture of my setup

https://goo.gl/photos/cS26i8ZPrRK915V5A

https://goo.gl/photos/qEjvBFRjv1TAcCCN8

https://goo.gl/photos/bEFLU7moARJ5ZD9JA

https://goo.gl/photos/MPttB3jHmB9YEuCj7

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Choiceind

also there is a little button that is on the underside of the tongue that you always want to press in when hooking up and trailering. Its also the same button that use to reset master cylinder when you bleed brakes, but I always check it when picking my boat up from the storage, or when I disconnect. Actuators are pretty cheap and easy to install. Just make sure you get the right one, they do a drum and a disc actuator.

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DirtTrailMedia
15 minutes ago, Choiceind said:

also there is a little button that is on the underside of the tongue that you always want to press in when hooking up and trailering. Its also the same button that use to reset master cylinder when you bleed brakes, but I always check it when picking my boat up from the storage, or when I disconnect. Actuators are pretty cheap and easy to install. Just make sure you get the right one, they do a drum and a disc actuator.

I don't have a button, here are some pictures from underneath the tongue

https://goo.gl/photos/AuCGUtbVwFQ1SGwY8

https://goo.gl/photos/ZorBUzwHbwHEsud1A

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Dodger40

I just had my brakes done on my Extreme trailer. Same symptoms. I replaced the actuator and two calipers. Problem solved. Only one wheel got hot, but I have UFP oil hub bearings and if I had gone much further I think the oil would have blown out.

hopefully you don't have the same bearings?

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DirtTrailMedia
11 hours ago, Dodger40 said:

I just had my brakes done on my Extreme trailer. Same symptoms. I replaced the actuator and two calipers. Problem solved. Only one wheel got hot, but I have UFP oil hub bearings and if I had gone much further I think the oil would have blown out.

hopefully you don't have the same bearings?

Did you ever find out what was causing the disc brake pads to stick, heating up?

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Dodger40

On mine I replaced both the actuator, the calipers, and 2 bearings. I think it was the actuator, but I'm not sure. I didn't want to be stuck on the side of the road. 

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Rmattajr

Curious if anything ever came of this, had the same issue and would be interested in hearing what the problem was. Thanks!

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Doublee133

Are all four wheels/brakes getting hot or just one ? I have had several calipers lock up and not release. If it is just one I would check each wheel to see which ones are hot.

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