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F150 trailer hitch rating


pknappe

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So I have a 2014 FX4 Ecobeast Screw with. 3.55 rear end and trailer tow package. When I look at the hitch, it has both a 5,000 lb rating for weight carrying and 10,500 lb for weight distributing hitch. This looks like a 5,000 lb hitch as it has three bolts attaching it to the end of the frame. When I look at the owners manual, it says you need the max tow package to get the higher rating. Anyone know what the rating is on the hitch or how to tell? Any other difference for the truck that is needed to tow my 14 VLX?

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You are limited to 5000 unless you use an addition WDH with sway control and additional torsion bars to transfer weight to the front tires. Few folks know or understand this. Prolly 30-50% of the folks on this site tow beyond their vehicle capacities.

What your truck comes with OEM.. ... What all our trucks/SUVs come with is a weight CARRYING hitch.

Most all 1/2tons are limited to 5k if they are SAE compliant. Chevys go up to 7500 because they have NOT complied with SAE tow ratings, if they did they'd be 5k or less like the others. Prolly less which is why after 5 years they are still not SAE compliant... And they co-authored the SAE standards lol.

The new Nissan TItan XD diesel will likely be the first 1/2ton to be 8k SAE compliant (regular weight carrying hitch tow, not a WDH) because they have put a 3/4ton frame, suspension and steering into the 1/2ton XD.

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Yep, I noticed similar issue now that I have to think about a heavier boat than our 1996 Malibu Sunsetter LX.

See my thread I posted a few days ago....http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/54090-what-do-you-guys-do-with-the-heavier-boats-hitch-rating-question-on-my-f-150/

I think I'm going to swap out the factory hitch for a Class IV hitch. It's rated to 1000lbs tongue weight and 10,000lbs tow weight. I've found them online for $120ish and its a simple bolt on same as factory.

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The problem is, even if you swap out to a heavier rated hitch you Still aren't in compliance unless you use a WDH.

A Class IV hitch does not void the requirement for a WDH and sway control for tows above 5000lbs.

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I have never seen a boat towed with a weight distribution hitch. And my trailer is not setup for it. Seems strange that they would not have a SAE compliant setup.

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So I have a 2014 FX4 Ecobeast Screw with. 3.55 rear end and trailer tow package. When I look at the hitch, it has both a 5,000 lb rating for weight carrying and 10,500 lb for weight distributing hitch. This looks like a 5,000 lb hitch as it has three bolts attaching it to the end of the frame. When I look at the owners manual, it says you need the max tow package to get the higher rating. Anyone know what the rating is on the hitch or how to tell? Any other difference for the truck that is needed to tow my 14 VLX?

I have the exact same truck and tow a vlx with it. I don't think you have to worry about the factory hitch failing to be honest. People tow above 5k with it all the time and you don't see people having problems with their hitch.

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I have never seen a boat towed with a weight distribution hitch. And my trailer is not setup for it. Seems strange that they would not have a SAE compliant setup.

Since you can buy 10k capable hitches, there would be no reason to setup the trailer with wd mounts from the factory. It is kind of weird that ford is putting class 3 stuff on , but there should have been an option for class 4 or 5. On a ram the bumper is rated for 5k, and the default frame mount receiver is class 4.

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WD hitches can affect the surge brake systems. You are placing a lot of weight on the actuator unit and can bind it. WD hitches are usually on trailer with electric braking.

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I think I'm going to run with the factory hitch for now and just monitor it before/after trips. I'll likely be on the line anyways, the weight of the boat says 3800lbs and I've seen people say tandem axle Boatmate trailers weight about 1200lbs so that gets me to my 5000lb tow limit before gear/etc but I'd think being a v-drive and all storage in rear the tongue weight won't be bad or exceed that 500lbs. Maybe I'll have to make sure my long trips are done light on fuel in the boat but I see plenty of people towing 'overweight' without issues so with how close I will be I don't think it warrants doing anything. Now when the boat comes in next month and if it doesn't tow right then I guess maybe I'll retract my statement make some changes.

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They make WDHs with swivel brackets to function with surge brakes. But yes, you gotta have a surge brake compatable WDH or else you'd have a worse problem with a trailer with no brakes.

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Problem is, if you were to get into an accident... And ANY part of it is your fault, especially more expensive ones involving injuries....The lawyers for your insurance company could choose to refuse your coverage by arguing you violated the terms of the policy. Towing beyond what's reasonable and prudent, manf specs.

I've never heard of it happening to a recreational boater like us.... But it does happen to commercial and construction folks regularly.

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Isn't that why we have insurance?? For serious accidents and also user ignorance. Falling asleep with a cigarette.. Falling asleep at the wheel.. Falling asleep while boating.. But seriously, I think most candles nowadays have a warning label that say "do not leave unattended" or "do not burn near things that will catch fire". My insurance adjuster was convinced those yankee candles are the most dangerous thing in a house. He sees fires caused by them all the time. Most common cause of fire he told me. They all get paid out. Insurance for ignorance.

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Just get a HD pick up and be done.

$11k for a 2008 F250 gasser with 75,000 miles. Wont win any drag races, but will tow whatever you need, last forever, and repairs and maintenance are cheap...................Government auction deal.

08E1B353-64D5-4678-89BD-27F960E11469_zps

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Think I'm going to go with a class 4 hitch. I saw one one trailer.com for $180. Said it would fit if you didn't have a factory hitch. Need to see if they have one to replace the factory one. Also am going to get a ball and reciever rated for 10,000 lbs. these are about $40-$50. The one I have is only rated for 5,000 lbs. While I think the parts I have would probably work, there is a reason that they rate the parts the way they do.

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