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CarveItUp

Shut-off valve question

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CarveItUp

I want to retrofit a shut-off valve on the raw water intake and am running into some problems. Hopefully someone has experience with this and can help...

I want to attach it to the existing 90 degree fitting so that the brass shutoff valve won't be pulling on the water hose.

There does not appear to be enough clearance between the intake and the oil pan to use a threaded valve. I can get a solder valve, flange the ends, put hose over the flanges and use hose clamps but I'm concerned about the weight of the valve pulling on the hose. I'm also concerned about the valve bouncing around and putting stress on the hoses.

Has anyone retrofitted their 'bu with a shutoff valve? If so, how did you do it?

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NorCaliBu

I did this mod. Pic's in my gallery. I'm late and gotta go. I'll post details later.

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John I.

I have some pics that I saved from an earlier thread on raw water strainers. Hope they help. (BTW, I believe one is Tracie's boat.)

post-92-1114713173_thumb.jpg

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John I.

Another..

post-92-1114713317_thumb.jpg

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yabetcha

The first pic (bow tie valve) is on my Sportster. If I can fit one in my boat, there's gotta be enough room to fit one on your boat. Michael used a valve similar to Tracie's but cut the valve handle shorter because of space limitations.

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CarveItUp

The bow-tie valve looks like it would do the trick. I currently have the other style and the handle is WAY too big to allow the valve to spin on. Sounds like I need to look for a lower-profile ball-valve...thanks for the quick info!

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CarveItUp

Oh, while we're on the topic of raw water lines, is there a consensus on a good water strainer? Might as well consider that while I'm in doing the other work... :)

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VinRLX

Tracie is a resident expert on that one.

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Faceplant409

On a good ball valve the handle will come off with one nut. A ball valve w/o the handle will be at least as small as that "t" handle valve.

As far as worrying about the durability of the intake hose.....fuggetaboutit....That stuff is real tough. Though I would preferr all brass at least until the valve as well.

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NorCaliBu

As stated earlier, I too had to remove the handle from the ball-valve to get it to turn w/o hitting the starter and/or pan. As I recall, I had the turn the 90* elbow that's on the thru-hull slightly away from the pan as well. Got the valve with hose barb installed then straightened it back out. While I had the handle off of the valve I cut it down (took off about 1") so that it would clear the starter once installed.

As for brand of strainer...I would go with the Sherwood or the Groco. I used a Groco only because it's all that my local West Marine had in stock. I had the next day set aside to do it and didn't want to wait for a special order. That said, the Sherwood is physically a smidge smaller so would probably fit easier. Due to space constraints I had to use a 90* elbow coming out of the strainer, going to the water pump. It doesn't seem to be restricting flow though as it still runs a consistent 160*.

Keep in mind that you want the strainer mounted vertically with the basket on bottom. That way when you turn the engine off the trapped sediment won't back-flow back in to the intake hose. Be sure to leave enough space vertically to allow the basket to drop off of the bottom of the strainer.

Edited by NorCaliBu

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O.C.Wes

I believe the red handled valve in the first pic. is a reduced-port type ball valve. It has an I.D. opening at the ball of approx. 1/2", vs. the blue handled valve in the second pic. which is probably a full 3/4" I.D.

I'm not sure if the reduced volume through the valve would make much difference, but they probably use 3/4" thru hull fittings for a reason. :)

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CarveItUp

Michael,

Thanks for the info. My 90* elbow also faces slightly toward the motor. I was hoping to do the mod without moving it (concerned about breaking the pipe-dope seal). Did you have to re-seal it after moving or was it still fine?

Thanks,

Mike

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O.C.Wes

I recognized the red valve as reduced port; we use them as gas cocks. They do also have reduced port leverhandle ball valves, usually don't run into as many though.

And yes, 1" is what's on mine. Not sure about other models.

Edited by O.C.Wes

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CarveItUp

Yep, 1" is the right size (for our '00 SLXi anyway)...

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NorCaliBu
Did you have to re-seal it after moving or was it still fine?

No resealing necessary. It's not a pressurized system at that point so not much chance of leaking even with the engine running. Not to mention that you're only turning it about 1/8 of a rotation.

And yes, 1" is what's on mine. Not sure about other models.

Just went and double checked mine as well. 1".

Edited by NorCaliBu

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CarveItUp

Thanks again Michael. Looking forward to meeting you in person at Oroville!

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NorCaliBu
Thanks again Michael. Looking forward to meeting you in person at Oroville!

Same here. I met Baumer last summer (chance meeting at Englebright) and met a bunch of "NorCalians" around Christmas time in a brewery in Sac (gee, a brewery, what a surprise Biggrin.gif )...Fun group. I can't wait.

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Jimmy Buffett

How do you shut off the flushing connection for normal operation? Do you have some sort of cap to screw on the connection?

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mrothwell

I guess I dont understand what this mod is for. why would you ever need a shutoff valve on the intake line?

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Waterbuggy

Yes, I connect the hose with a female/female hose adapter to the fitting on the tee. Then just cap with a brass cap when the hose is disconnected. Just a simple as a Flushpro without the plastic.

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Waterbuggy
I guess I dont understand what this mod is for.  why would you ever need a shutoff valve on the intake line?

For those of us with a strainer, it allows you to remove the strainer to clean with the boat in the water. It is nice if you are changing the water pump impleller in the water too, although it isn't really essential.

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NorCaliBu
I guess I dont understand what this mod is for.  why would you ever need a shutoff valve on the intake line?

In our lake late in the summer we can get quite a bit of hydrilla & eurasian milfoil that can clog a tranny cooler pronto. When I installed the intake strainer I wanted to be able to clean it without having to put the boat back on the trailer. In my Sporty, the strainer is below the water line so if I take the basket off while on the water, water flows in. Shocking.gif The valve allows me to clean the strainer easily.

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O.C.Wes

I put a brass tee for flushing into my intake line, and use the valve to direct the fresh water toward engine. Cheaper and stronger than a FlushPro. Seems to work well, as long as I ALWAYS remember to open the valve again when I'm done.

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NorCaliBu

O.C.Wes,

Where do you take your boat that you need to flush often enough to need the tee? Or did you just do it for winterizing convenience? Yeah, forgetting to reopen the valve would be a bummer. I have never even closed mine, haven't sucked up any weeds yet requiring me to clean the strainer. (knock on wood) Hopefully that strainer/valve mod will be time and money poorly spent. Surprised.gif

Edited by NorCaliBu

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O.C.Wes

The only time I ever use it is to warm the engine up for oil changes (and to rinse-out that nasty green Lake Elsinore water!) Biggrin.gif .

You know what would happen if you didn't put in the strainer don't you? Putting it in probably guaranteed you"ll never have to ever clean it!

Edited by O.C.Wes

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