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Chauncemaster

The latest chapter in a long saga

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Chauncemaster

Here's the quick recap, and then I could use some suggesions:

It all started when I dewinterized and one of the otrsion axles on my trailer had gone bad due to manufacturers defect. Owen at boatmate was great and sent out two new axles and a fender to get the problem fixed. The problem was my axles were welded on so I had to take the trailer to a welding shop. I got a loaner trailer from my dealer but it was for a 23 foot centurian so my boat only fit on it very precariously. Then it turned out that the boat my trailer came from got sold so I had to bring back the trailer before mine was fixed. I made arrangements with a marina to put my boat on blocks until my trialer is done being welded.

While backing off the trailer my prop hit one of the bunks sicne the trailer is too long for my boat. In idle everything seemed normal but a vibration was slightly noticable around 1000 rpms and by 2000 rpms was shaking the whole boat so I backed off. When I got the boat out of the water the tip of every blade on the prop was bent about 45 degrees.

I've been meaning to get a new prop anyway for a while now that is good for tons of weight at wakeboard speed but now I am definitely going through with it. Here are my questions and hopefully some of you can help me answer them:

1. Do I have to worry about the prop shaft being bent? At idle eveyrhting seemed fine and I also looked at the prop shaft i nthe compartment while in idle and didn't notice it shaking or anything. I also turned the prop by hand out of the water and didn't notice anything. Hopefully hitting a wooden bunk decreased the chance of prop shaft damage but is there more I should do to rule this out?

2. What kind of prop is best for my wakesetter VLX if I run with tons of extra ballast at wakeboard speeds. I am not concerned with top end speed, only wakeboard performance when weighted. Also, how hard is it to swap props? Do I need to buy the prop puller tool or can it be done without one?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide

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WakeGirl

1. Possibly. Your dealer can check it for you.

2. Not sure on the prop size, I don't know much about what the v-drives take. It's very easy to change a prop & you do need a puller to do it. Maybe a 10 minute job at most.

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dlb

Chancemaster,

Your prop should be an Acme and have a number stamped on it.

I put an Acme 537 on my 2002 WS LSV. That prop is a 16 down from the stock 17.5 pitch. I get all the hole shot needed for a boat load of people and ballast. I have a Monsoon 325.

I doubt that there was any alignment damage, but if it were me, I would have the dealer check it out.

dlb

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jmadden

The Acme chart says #381 for the VLX. Mine actually takes a #537 because of the altitude. I dinged mine last year and had it rebuilt locally but apparantly not quite balanced right. Slight vibration and RPM's are off so I'm gonna send it back to Acme to get it rebuilt right.

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chathamsolutions

Jim at ACME told me the 537 would be the ideal prop for me as well.

'04 WS 23 LSV - 340 Monsoon. 99%wakeboarding/surfing

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LS-One

No don't worry about your prop shaft being bent it takes a pretty serious blow to bend one. And don't chuck your old prop they can be repaired relativeley inexpensive and keep it for a spare.

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SacRiverRat

I'm running the 537, and it was a major improvement over the stock prop - but if you're running with lots of people, and more than stock ballast you may want to go a step lower...

It is very peppy out of the hole unburdened - but still feels like it is working hard when heavily loaded

And the prop puller is not required.. some (pot full) hot water poured on the prop hub to heat it up, and a few careful 'taps' from a dead blow mallet (rubber coated) will take it off just fine (remember to keep the prop nut on the end of the treads, so the prop doesn't jump all the way off... )

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Chauncemaster

so Im deciding between the 537 and 857. Anyone know what was stock on my 02 VLX?

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I had a similar situation last year. While sitting in my lift with the engine off, a wave rolled in and one blade on my prop hit the cross member of the lift. It bent one blade tip just slightly... I straightened the blade tip as best I could with a piece of wood and hammer-you really had to look to see which blade was damaged. Even then, the boat vibrated like crazy at speed. Needless to say, I removed and replaced the prop immediately.

I don't think you have to worry about the prop shaft. When I put the new prop on things were smooth as silk.

If you didn't ask ACME, they can repair your old prop for $80. $90 if they need to do a weld repair. You need an RGA number from ACME and the prop will most likely go to Sand Lake Michigan for repair.

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dlb

Your stock prop was a 381. They were stock on both the LSV and VLX in 2002.

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Chauncemaster

Thanks for all the help everybody. I've decided to go with the 527 which should be an improvement over my stock prop. I was considering the 857 since I run with so much weight but the guy at ACME told me it would put a hurting on fuel economy and I should see a big low end benefit from the 527.

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chathamsolutions

Did you mean 537?

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Chauncemaster
Did you mean 537?

nah, I had my own custom prop designed and named it the 527 :blush:

I could claim it was just a typo except I made the same mistake twice in a row.

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actionadd

I put a 537 on by VLX and it made a difference when the boat is loaded.

I still have the old prop it has a couple of nicks in it, so I keep it as a spare.

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99response

If you look at the end of your driveshaft there is a hole in the middle, if you spin the prop and look at this hole you can see if the shaft is out of alignment at all, it's a good quick test but not an absolute one by any means.

Chris

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dlb

You'll like what the 537 does for your fun factor.

Get the old prop fixed and keep it for a spare. I have had to use mine about once a summer.

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UWSkier

I'd be more worried about the strut bushing than the prop shaft. As long as you didn't use the boat very much with the vibration present, the bushing should be fine. If you use a wobbly prop for an extended period of time, the bushing can wear unevenly and lead to a sloppy shaft, and what guy wants that??? :)

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