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Ford Turbo Thread, (not Just another F150 Thread)


Bozboat

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I don't know. But my 6.7 Ford moves the boost gauge doing anything above backing out of a parking spot.

So in order to not make boost you have to go downhill everywhere or idle wherever you need to go.

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The Eco is in boost most of the time but the saying without getting into boost is more of a saying . If you stay off the big end turbo might be a better saying.

Just remember any time you are making H.P. you are using fuel. More air and fuel makes more H.P. :biggrin:

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  • 4 weeks later...

People talk about driving around without "getting into the turbo" which makes me think of trying to drive a cheby without getting into the secondaries on the Rochester Turbo Jet when you turn the breather over.

Q, Driving gently and empty at 2000 rpm versus maintaining 70 at 2000 rpms while climbing the Loveland Pass pulling cargo trailer full of Old Milwaukee,

what controls how much turbo you get?

A. The throttle butterfly. A turbo is driven by exhaust, and works because it creates more power through boost than it robs by exhaust restriction. If you barely crack the throttle, your engine can't pump much exhaust through the turbo.

Engine load can be calculated as RPM x MAP, and MAP is directly related to throttle opening. If you want to have minimum boost, keep engine load minimized. That means slow accelerations at minimum throttle opening.

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A. The throttle butterfly. A turbo is driven by exhaust, and works because it creates more power through boost than it robs by exhaust restriction. If you barely crack the throttle, your engine can't pump much exhaust through the turbo.

Engine load can be calculated as RPM x MAP, and MAP is directly related to throttle opening. If you want to have minimum boost, keep engine load minimized. That means slow accelerations at minimum throttle opening.

Thanks, that makes sense. I was confusing RPM with work.

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There is a known problem in the F150s with the ecoboost. It is the intercooler developing moisture within it and thus sending this moisture through the fuel system causing coils to go bad as well as plugs. There has been two TSBs on it with placing shields etc over this part as a fix. They don't work. My buddy has 160K on his and has had this happen numerous times pulling his boat. He is getting rid of it as he doesn't want to to through it anymore. I would never buy an Ecoboost in a F150.

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There is a known problem in the F150s with the ecoboost. It is the intercooler developing moisture within it and thus sending this moisture through the fuel system causing coils to go bad as well as plugs. There has been two TSBs on it with placing shields etc over this part as a fix. They don't work. My buddy has 160K on his and has had this happen numerous times pulling his boat. He is getting rid of it as he doesn't want to to through it anymore. I would never buy an Ecoboost in a F150.

What year is it? My understanding is that this was a problem with 2011 and early 2012 ecoboosts. I'm on my second, first was a 2011, and never had any such issues, but they are out there.

By the way,,,,,,in the next few years, you're going to see more small displacement turbo engines in trucks. That and much more all aluminum bodies,

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His is a 2011. I also know people with newer ones that have the same problem. They run good and normally have problems when in tow or under load. It's hit or miss on these trucks. Lots of info out there on the intercooler problem though. I agree there will be more smaller turbo engines in trucks in the future. I'm taking my 6.2 Raptor to the grave with me if it lasts that long.

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2012 Ecoboost here, I'm not worried. If it blows up, Ford will fix it.

They will fix it, but let's hope you don't have the boat in tow if something happens.

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  • 4 weeks later...

2012 F150 ecoboost FX4 with 373 rear end. 44k on the clock and its currently in the dealer for a warped exhaust manifold, this is after the 3 coil packs and spark plugs within the last 10k. Dealer said ford refuses to simply replace all the coil packs and plugs even after all my inconvenience. FYI I only tow 1/4 mile to the launch ramp, the miles are mostly hwy running back and forth to our river house 265 miles each way. Oh and the one time I did tow the boat back to our house (01 Centurion v-drive so not as heavy as what I will be towing out next trip, 2014 MXZ 24) I only got 9 mpg.

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I used to tow with a 5.9l all wheel drive 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited. It had plenty of power, but she found herself being donated with 200k on the odometer - I bought a 2011 Ford F150 XLT with the 5.0, it towed like a champ, was much nicer than the grand and much more stable on long trips. After piling on a 100k in 3 years, I upgraded to a 2014 F150 FX4 with the 6cyl ecoboost, my current rig. I'm reading this thread and getting anxious picking up my new 2015 LSV next Friday and then driving it the 200 some miles from dealer to the lake. This is the first boost capable vehicle I've ever owned, I come from standard v8's and inline 6's (my jeeps) and could pretty much work on them myself.

Guess time will tell for me, but I am hopeful that I don' see a lot of the problems described here. I am headed in for my next service on Tuesday, I've asked them to go through TSP's, esp anything related to the Turbo's or intercooler -

I suspect my next pickup will be an F250 - and probably not an ecoBoost :)

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A. The throttle butterfly. A turbo is driven by exhaust, and works because it creates more power through boost than it robs by exhaust restriction. If you barely crack the throttle, your engine can't pump much exhaust through the turbo.

Engine load can be calculated as RPM x MAP, and MAP is directly related to throttle opening. If you want to have minimum boost, keep engine load minimized. That means slow accelerations at minimum throttle opening.

Actually the turbo doesn't make boost when the throttle is closed because the manifold is in a vacuum state due to being blocked off. When the intake manifold is in a vacuum your recirc valve is completely open so the turbo is spinning and moving air, it's just that air is being dumped.

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EGR flow and further powertrain control as far as the PCM is concerned. Since everything is now drive by wire per say, now the PCM can control air into the engine also.

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EGR flow and further powertrain control as far as the PCM is concerned. Since everything is now drive by wire per say, now the PCM can control air into the engine also.

Is this to try and prevent runaway? I've never witnessed it happening, but heard of it. I saw a video of a 2015 Duramax on runaway.

On another note, I have almost 70k on my ecoboost with 0 issues.

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Is this to try and prevent runaway? I've never witnessed it happening, but heard of it. I saw a video of a 2015 Duramax on runaway.

On another note, I have almost 70k on my ecoboost with 0 issues.

I traded my 2011 in with 68k and zero issues other than crappy stock tires.

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