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Let's talk MEFI


justgary

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Nerding out a bit with my new cable. Hoping to get a few recordings of it running on the hose tomorrow. 

@GaryDoug I know that to get it to "flash" DTCs you need to bridge A and B together. Is that also required to read DTCs using this cable setup? 

IMG_20200725_145519.jpg

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2 hours ago, UWSkier said:

Nerding out a bit with my new cable. Hoping to get a few recordings of it running on the hose tomorrow. 

@GaryDoug I know that to get it to "flash" DTCs you need to bridge A and B together. Is that also required to read DTCs using this cable setup? 

IMG_20200725_145519.jpg

You should not need a jumper.  What happens when you click on the "Trouble Codes" tab? 

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Made my cable, took the laptop over to the lake today and I'm getting "Data Timeout  signal missing(engine)"  I think it's related to not having the correct driver installed even though Windows is saying the device is ready, when in device manager, it says it is not configured correctly. 

 

What driver should I be looking for?  Or am I barking up the wrong tree.

 

 

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2 hours ago, CoMtnBu said:

Made my cable, took the laptop over to the lake today and I'm getting "Data Timeout  signal missing(engine)"  I think it's related to not having the correct driver installed even though Windows is saying the device is ready, when in device manager, it says it is not configured correctly. 

 

What driver should I be looking for?  Or am I barking up the wrong tree.

 

 

I found a driver online that worked. Windows update didn't have the driver for the cable. Using win 7 here. Downloaded the exe version which dropped the necessary files in the right spots. 

Don't remember exact path but it was on ftdichip.com

Edited by UWSkier
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Think I got, unplugged the cable, plugged it back in to another port, which I'd done before, and device manager shows it as ready with FTDI driver.  

If only it had done so while at the boat.

Thanks

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  • 2 weeks later...

Fun with data.  Got some clean runs this morning to do some plotting of GPH vs RPM.  This is a Monsoon II with just me and about 150ish lbs of ballast to offset.

Also seems like the new fuel line, filter, and pump setup is working great as my WOT RPM was 350 RPM better than last time... though I was running without the doghouse today so there was no limit to cool air accessible to engine.

Red line is a moving average of the blue data points.  There's a surge in the midrange because those were holeshots.  Looks like right around 10.5 GPH for most slalom speeds.  22 GPH at WOT!

SC 2020-08-06 at 10.19.03 AM.png

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So now that I know there is GPH data available in a data stream, I'm really wondering if I can't figure out a way to make a ScanGauge work on this thing a-la @Slurpee.  Would love to know for real how many gallons I'm using on an ongoing basis.

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On 7/25/2020 at 10:01 PM, justgary said:

Even if you cause a code?  Maybe pull the MAP sensor wire? 

Doing this threw a code.  It's now recorded.  Not sure how to reset/remove that code.  Have read something about putting it into service mode and advancing throttle to 100% and back.

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37 minutes ago, UWSkier said:

Doing this threw a code.  It's now recorded.  Not sure how to reset/remove that code.  Have read something about putting it into service mode and advancing throttle to 100% and back.

That's it, the throttle...

1. Key on, engine off

2. Jumper A to B

3. Move throttle from 0% to 100% and back to 0%

4. Remove jumper

5. Key off for at least 20 seconds

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15 minutes ago, justgary said:

That's it, the throttle...

1. Key on, engine off

2. Jumper A to B

3. Move throttle from 0% to 100% and back to 0%

4. Remove jumper

5. Key off for at least 20 seconds

I haven't yet put the jumper with switch inline between A and B on my cable.  Think maybe it's time.  I also wanted to check timing... though that brings me to my next question.

On initial start and at idle, my "spark advance" is 9.8 degrees.  Is that measuring the base timing, or is that in addition to the 10 degree standard advance (i.e. idle is actually 19.8 btdc)?  My spark advance max is 35.8 degrees around 3000-3500 RPM.

Edited by UWSkier
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26 minutes ago, UWSkier said:

I haven't yet put the jumper with switch inline between A and B on my cable.  Think maybe it's time.  I also wanted to check timing... though that brings me to my next question.

On initial start and at idle, my "spark advance" is 9.8 degrees.  Is that measuring the base timing, or is that in addition to the 10 degree standard advance (i.e. idle is actually 19.8 btdc)?  My spark advance max is 35.8 degrees around 3000-3500 RPM.

You don't need to add the jumper to your cable if you don't want to.  Just remove your cable and use a wire to jump it.

I don't know the answer to your advance question, but I suspect what you read from the ECM is additional to the base timing.  A timing light would tell you the answer.

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  • 5 months later...

@jtl016, @GaryDoug

anyone still have the MEFI4 software mentioned above? I tried a bunch of the links (most don't have a download). I'd like to build a cable and give this a whirl after getting a "beep" (dealership said it was injector, but after some research and feedback from @UWSkier I'm inclined to think it is oil pressure switch). I'd like to give this a whirl before spring gets too close.

Also it looks like a CodeMate reader will give me codes, but maybe not be able to clear them?

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  • 2 months later...
On 1/23/2021 at 6:50 AM, rakr said:

@jtl016, @GaryDoug

anyone still have the MEFI4 software mentioned above? I tried a bunch of the links (most don't have a download). I'd like to build a cable and give this a whirl after getting a "beep" (dealership said it was injector, but after some research and feedback from @UWSkier I'm inclined to think it is oil pressure switch). I'd like to give this a whirl before spring gets too close.

Also it looks like a CodeMate reader will give me codes, but maybe not be able to clear them?

I can check on my other machine if I have the MEFI4 executable if you still need this.  I run it on an old windows netbook.

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  • 3 months later...

Does anyone have a complete cable they are done playing with? Or all the pieces that they didn't assemble? Should be small enough to throw in the mail to Canada.

The pins are out of stock until 2022, the housings keep showing stock available tomorrow.

Edited by JasonRMorrow
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9 minutes ago, JasonRMorrow said:

Does anyone have a complete cable they are done playing with? Or all the pieces that they didn't assemble? Should be small enough to throw in the mail to Canada.

The pins are out of stock until 2022, the housings keep showing stock available tomorrow.

You should only need two contacts to build a basic cable.  I would be surprised if your local big box auto parts store didn't carry them in the electrical department.  You could build the cable up and use it by poking each pin separately into the engine harness, then add the housing after you can get one.

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I ended up on the Aptiv site and found compatible pins which mouser had in stock 15344866-L. They are 0.5-1.0mm2 wire instead of 0.5-0.8mm2. The housings were in stock today so I ordered enough parts to do 3 cables for myself and some friends. Thanks

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Mouser is quick to Canada via UPS, received parts last night and built my cable today. I found the MEFI4 software and I downloaded Tunerpro freeware as well. If anyone needs the parts in Canada I bought enough to make a spare cable and can mail them out. I placed an order large enough to get free shipping.

 

EDIT - Can't find an XDF or ADX file for anything MEFI4. Does anyone here use Tunerpro along with @justgary software?

Edited by JasonRMorrow
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11 hours ago, justgary said:

Surely you mean @GaryDoug's software that he most graciously posted.

Definitely, sorry. And I've only been googling his name for a week reading as much as I can where he's posted on other forums too.

Thank you @GaryDoug for creating the program and making it freeware. Had to download the windows driver package from FTDI and it automatically selects the COM port. I think it will be plug and play once I get to the lake. 

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