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Suggestions for rear compartment carpet replacement


MotoGPTy

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Howdy everyone,

Looking for suggestions on how to make rear compartments (and possibly other hidden areas that have carpet) a little more maintenance free since they sit wet under ballast bags for most of the year. My thought is to pull the carpet in the rear compartments, sand the glue off, then coat with a bed liner or something similar. 2001 VLX, so the carpet is kinda beat anyway.

I was thinking after I get the carpet out and the glue removed:

1. Take to a LineX place and get them to spray for me

2. Use some sort of DIY bed liner (any suggestions on brands?)

3. Use some sort of DIY garage floor epoxy (would this even work? If so...suggestion on brands)

Any thoughts (or links) would be appreciated.

Edited by MotoGPTy
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@MotoGPTy: An option I thought about was 1/8" thick EVA foam. Similar to what is on a fiberglass platform, bindings, footbeds, wrestling mats, the new Centurion uses it instead of carpet and you can get the black or dark grey stuff very cheap from a foam store. You can glue it down using 3M 90 spray glue.

I got mine locally as it was cheaper than here, but this gives you an idea (I was looking at the clearance section):

http://www.foamorder.com/closedcell.html

PS: pretty interesting MGP race over the weekend.

  • Like 2
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I removed the carpet from the back lockers before putting in the 750 bags. It was a pretty easy process overall. Just removed the carpet, sanded down some rough spots and rolled on the bedliner paint from an auto parts store. Its been over 5 years now and its looks just like new. The water from jackets and other items on the bags runs right off. I may have some pictures somewhere but haven't found them yet.

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  • 4 months later...

I'm either using dinogrip or seadek. Probably goin w www.dinogrip.com stuff for lockers-storage areas, more economical and have used it on my gunnels and nose area on my VTX and love it. Used it on my last boat as well and held up fantastic. Dries fast and no mildew ect.. and adds some cushion to the areas.

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Bought a gallon of Herculiner and going to put that down in our LSV with a small roller after I rip out the carpet. That should do the trick. Carpet in the rear compartments is just asking for stank.

Edited by MotoGPTy
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Bought a gallon of Herculiner and going to put that down in our LSV with a small roller after I rip out the carpet. That should do the trick. Carpet in the rear compartments is just asking for stank.

I agree about the stank...it sucks. PLEASE take pictures of your project for the crew.

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  • 1 year later...

@MotoGPTy:  Great work.  Thanks for the link to the carpet cap.  How flexible is the material and I assume it is vinyl or similar material and did you simply glue it to the floor or add fasteners with glue?  I am making a custom engine box and am looking to edge the carpet with something similar or that item and would need it to go around the radius bend along the midsection of the engine box (DD boat so carpet to vinyl seam is in middle).  Thanks for any feedback.

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That looks awesome!  I think I have found my next project!  Thanks...:cry: lol.  I have never liked the carpet back there as it is always wet because of the ballast bags.  A couple of years ago I put some rubber mats down in the floor and the ballast bags sit on those.  That has helped but I love this idea!  The factory also did a lousy job on the carpet where the piece on the transom meets the floor .  You can see a gap there and that has always bothered my anal -ness haha.   

How hard was it to get the carpet up and the old glue off?

Thanks for the pics

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formulaben
5 minutes ago, DUKENO1 said:

How hard was it to get the carpet up and the old glue off?

Yes, I also want to know...I removed the carpet in my bow and that rubber cement was brutal to remove.  I finally found someone post that citri-strip is safe on fiberglass and that helped a lot but not looking forward to removing all that carpet.

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Just now, formulaben said:

Yes, I also want to know...I removed the carpet in my bow and that rubber cement was brutal to remove.  I finally found someone post that citri-strip is safe on fiberglass and that helped a lot but not looking forward to removing all that carpet.

:plus1:

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2 hours ago, Woodski said:

@MotoGPTy:  Great work.  Thanks for the link to the carpet cap.  How flexible is the material and I assume it is vinyl or similar material and did you simply glue it to the floor or add fasteners with glue?  I am making a custom engine box and am looking to edge the carpet with something similar or that item and would need it to go around the radius bend along the midsection of the engine box (DD boat so carpet to vinyl seam is in middle).  Thanks for any feedback.

Thanks Woodski.  It's very flexible and when warmed it'll follow the contour of the boat easily.  To make one curve you can see I used a weight so the glue could bond.  I used 5200 since I had some laying around from another project.  I cut the edge transition it in two sections.  One for the floor and one for the wall.  Let me know if you'd like any specific pics.  

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1 hour ago, DUKENO1 said:

That looks awesome!  I think I have found my next project!  Thanks...:cry: lol.  I have never liked the carpet back there as it is always wet because of the ballast bags.  A couple of years ago I put some rubber mats down in the floor and the ballast bags sit on those.  That has helped but I love this idea!  The factory also did a lousy job on the carpet where the piece on the transom meets the floor .  You can see a gap there and that has always bothered my anal -ness haha.   

How hard was it to get the carpet up and the old glue off?

Thanks for the pics

 

1 hour ago, formulaben said:

Yes, I also want to know...I removed the carpet in my bow and that rubber cement was brutal to remove.  I finally found someone post that citri-strip is safe on fiberglass and that helped a lot but not looking forward to removing all that carpet.

Thanks guys.  I started off with an orbital sander with 60 grit.  If the glue is super hard in places it works but a lot of it just gums up.  I then tried acetone, acetone gel, Easy Off, citri-strip...but none of it really worked like magic and it just comes down to using a lot of rags, a plastic & metal scraper depending on the surface, and elbow grease.  A wire brush allowed me to get into the glue with all the remover and seemed to help.  In the end, I didn't get it off completely but was just tired of it.  I don't think it'll make a difference though now that I've used the Herculiner and gotten some on my hand.  It's been 2 days and no matter what I try (acetone, gas, WD40, peanut butter, Babyganics foaming bottle wash, etc) it won't come off!

Also, be sure to cut off any screw tips that might have come through where the hull and cap meet.  My favorite tool, the Dremel, came in handy for that job. 

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