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How do I run my engine while not on a lake


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hmm, we like to over think stuff.

Just do what jwl019 does.

1 screw driver is all you need and a hose.

I 100% support the KISS methodology but I prefer my $18 adapter. I've done it both ways and having a way to control water flow from inside my boat is a requirement for me.

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Just another way of doing it... I have a Y pipe for my heater. I spliced it garden hose attachments and hook up there instead of the fake a lake. This way it won't come loose. I turn the water on full blast, excess water just drains out the bottom.

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@gobble: I would recommend that prior to winterizing you drain the water out of the engine (specifically and importantly remove and drain both sides of the block (fittings are centrally located near the pan/block joint)) and if you have one, the heater core. Only after that would I recommend refilling with the antifreeze. My reasoning for this is you minimize any chance of not mixing the water with antifreeze, particularly for those that reside in cold climates such as WI. Nothing in the block is much better than water only and is the way many store their boats. The goal is to not allow the water to turn to ice and crack the block or heater core due to expansion.

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My version of the hose adapter. I like it better than the fake-a-lake because I can tell if water is running (its right next to me, not somewhere under the boat), and there is no way it can be kicked off or blown off by water pressure.

hoseadapter.jpg

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Bucket system is pretty easy IF YOU CAN GET YOUR HOSE OFF of the fitting/valve that goes through the hull. Just stick that hose and a garden hose in the bucket. I would put it on the back deck since my hose was long enough to keep from spilling water in the boat. You would be shocked how fast it will suck the water out. That's how I used to winterize. AFTER WARMING ENGINE UP GOOD shut off boat fill bucket with antifreeze start boat when empty done.

Tee in line makes it much easier though.

Edited by haresource2
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So I know to get a bucket and fill it with water and to have a hose running to keep the bucket full. My question though, and I've searched for a description or picture, is where to I drop a hose from the boat to the bucket? I assume to the water pump, but can't find a good discussion.

Not to sound like a princess over here (because, trust me, I've done my fair share of grunt work) but if I were you I would spend the coin and get a Perko flush kit . If you want to get fancy get it hooked up to the transom so all you gotta do is twist in a hose to the transom and you're all set .

With the Perko system there is a ball valve that will close off the raw water intake automatically and allow the hose water to flow through the system and eventually out the exhaust. Keep in mind though that you can still overheat the engine if you're demanding a lot from the engine, for this reason I typically never run above idle while on ground water. The amount of water flow your raw water pump induces is massive... And obviously increases with with as it's directly geared to the crank shaft, your garden hose will deliver a fixed amount of water independant of engine rpm.

If you like tinkering around with the boat in the driveway this is a must-have. You can hook the garden hose up to a bucket of antifreeze and fill the block that way too.

My two cents .

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I don't think you could ever "demand too much" from an unloaded engine on your driveway. I'm sure 4000rpm with no load won't overheat your engine. Would I ever do this for more than a minute? No. But I wouldn't hesitate to.

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I don't think you could ever "demand too much" from an unloaded engine on your driveway. I'm sure 4000rpm with no load won't overheat your engine. Would I ever do this for more than a minute? No. But I wouldn't hesitate to.

I wouldn't be worried so much about the motor, I'd be worried about the shaft bushing and that prop spinning wildly since there is no way to rev the newer boats in neutral unless you are disconnecting the shift harness.

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I have run my engine in neutral for at least 15 minutes straight at 2500 RPM, with just a 5/8" garden hose for raw water. 160*F the whole time, and plenty of water coming out the flappers.

For those of you about to ask why, I was testing my half-closed cooling conversion before a true on-water test. I found a few small leaks and made sure it wasn't going to overheat as soon as I put it in the water. Normal flush after each trip is idle only for a few minutes.

Also, I'm pretty sure the raw water pump will suck a lot more water through the hose than it could normally provide. You guys with ballast pumps could easily test that for us.

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I have run my engine in neutral for at least 15 minutes straight at 2500 RPM, with just a 5/8" garden hose for raw water. 160*F the whole time, and plenty of water coming out the flappers.

For those of you about to ask why, I was testing my half-closed cooling conversion before a true on-water test. I found a few small leaks and made sure it wasn't going to overheat as soon as I put it in the water. Normal flush after each trip is idle only for a few minutes.

Also, I'm pretty sure the raw water pump will suck a lot more water through the hose than it could normally provide. You guys with ballast pumps could easily test that for us.

What do you mean by your last statement ? Im confused ...?

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What do you mean by your last statement ? Im confused ...?

I'm saying that a lot of people have commented that they don't think a garden hose can provide enough water to keep their motor cool for very long. I'm also saying that I think that a garden hose will put out more water when it has suction on it than when it doesn't. A ballast pump is an easy way to test my claim, but I don't have one.

To test it, someone could time how long it takes to fill a bucket with their hose on full. Then do it again with the hose on full and a ballast pump on the end of the hose, pulling water out of the hose. And the raw water pump probably pulls harder than a ballast pump (but the hose will eventually hit a limit).

Either way, I'm not afraid to run my motor on a hose for as long as I care.

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This is true. If you have a 'direct connection' to your impeller using a device like I posted above, anything much above idle will begin to collapse the garden hose. The impeller is sucking more water than the hose can provide.

Idle seemed to pose no problem with supplying enough water. In fact, it seemed in my case, at least, to be exactly right....i.e., hose not collapsing, not water 'building up' in the clear tube part of the contraption I built.

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I'm saying that a lot of people have commented that they don't think a garden hose can provide enough water to keep their motor cool for very long. I'm also saying that I think that a garden hose will put out more water when it has suction on it than when it doesn't. A ballast pump is an easy way to test my claim, but I don't have one.

To test it, someone could time how long it takes to fill a bucket with their hose on full. Then do it again with the hose on full and a ballast pump on the end of the hose, pulling water out of the hose. And the raw water pump probably pulls harder than a ballast pump (but the hose will eventually hit a limit).

Either way, I'm not afraid to run my motor on a hose for as long as I care.

For those of us on well water I think the pump and ultimately the pressure tank dictate how much and how much water come out... The raw water impeller can pull all it wants but you can't get more than the well pump and then the pressure tank can deliver....

Maybe a different story for city folk...

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For those of us on well water I think the pump and ultimately the pressure tank dictate how much and how much water come out... The raw water impeller can pull all it wants but you can't get more than the well pump and then the pressure tank can deliver.... Maybe a different story for city folk...

Think about the assistance from suction as adding 14 PSI to both your pressure tank and your pump. The volume will increase.

The size and length of hose is the primary factor in the total water delivery rate, as are sharp bends and corners.

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This is true. If you have a 'direct connection' to your impeller using a device like I posted above, anything much above idle will begin to collapse the garden hose. The impeller is sucking more water than the hose can provide.

Idle seemed to pose no problem with supplying enough water. In fact, it seemed in my case, at least, to be exactly right....i.e., hose not collapsing, not water 'building up' in the clear tube part of the contraption I built.

At idle, with water hose turned wide open at the faucet, mine is trying to collapse the hose as it is sucking slightly harder than city water provides pressure. Has not been a problem for me though, never runs above 160 deg on the hose.

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Does anyone ever worry about the pressure of the water from the hose damaging something before the engine is turned on? I try to turn the hose on about half way with a ball valve before starting and then open it up after starting the engine. I have a perko connection.

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I've never heard of anyone's engine overfilling with water.

Does anyone ever worry about the pressure of the water from the hose damaging something before the engine is turned on? I try to turn the hose on about half way with a ball valve before starting and then open it up after starting the engine. I have a perko connection.

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Does anyone ever worry about the pressure of the water from the hose damaging something before the engine is turned on? I try to turn the hose on about half way with a ball valve before starting and then open it up after starting the engine. I have a perko connection.

That's why I put a ball valve in my adapter. I start the engine, then start the water flow from the hose. Also allowed me to get in the boat without water going everywhere before I could get the engine spinning.

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One year I tried to run my fake-a-lake to a hose in a bucket full of anti-freeze for winterization. I was hoping it would pull a draft. It didn't work

I do the same but the bucket is in the swim platform so the FAL has some water head above it. No issues. Nearly, virtually, almost, snow balls chance impossible to draft with a FAL... not airtight.
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Does anyone ever worry about the pressure of the water from the hose damaging something before the engine is turned on? I try to turn the hose on about half way with a ball valve before starting and then open it up after starting the engine. I have a perko connection.

I just hook the hose to my transom fitting, turn the water on, and then start the engine. I can hear the water squealing past the impeller when the engine is off.

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