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Winterize


Gregg Prez

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Ok I have gotten varying opinions. Do I just drain the engine or do I put antifreeze in it? If I put antifreeze in how should I do it ....run it through the intake or dump it in?

Appreciate the feedback.

GP

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I've always just drained mine, but i live in oklahoma and we usually don't get too bad of winters down here, one thing that i have not previously done and will do this year is make sure i get all the water cleared out of my ballast pumps. I had a few of them that must have froze up this winter and broke and had to be replaced

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I'd say not enough info - how cold does it get where your boat will be stored? Inside or out? Now all the different opinions will come into play!

Lets pretend hes storing it in an unheated shed where it can drop to -40f outside (just for my benefit :) )

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Draining is sufficient.

I would put automotive AF if you are worried about corrosion since AF usually has anti-corrosion properties unlike raw lake water... but then you have to dispose of it.

RV AF has little corrosion protection but might help a little.

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Ok I have gotten varying opinions. Do I just drain the engine or do I put antifreeze in it? If I put antifreeze in how should I do it ....run it through the intake or dump it in?Appreciate the feedback. GP

Through the J hose...like Shawndoggy recommended

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I enjoy seeing everyone ask/answer winterizing questions without ever a mention of whether the boat is open, partly closed or fully closed cooling. It makes a big difference.

Mine is partly closed - I did antifreeze the first couple of years then decided that was a waste of time/money and just went to draining it per Indmar spec. Boat is always garage (unheated) kept, last winter we had record cold spells and she did fine. :)

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After I pull all the drain plugs I either jack the trailer way up in the front or tow it around some to get the water out of the low points (the engine is not level in the boat).

To get the water out of the raw water pump, I crank the engine a few seconds without starting it, without a water supply, and the raw water pump outlet hose disconnected.

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I enjoy seeing everyone ask/answer winterizing questions without ever a mention of whether the boat is open, partly closed or fully closed cooling. It makes a big difference.

Mine is partly closed - I did antifreeze the first couple of years then decided that was a waste of time/money and just went to draining it per Indmar spec. Boat is always garage (unheated) kept, last winter we had record cold spells and she did fine. :)

Is your motor semi closed cooled like my LS3 nitrous?

What are your steps? Just drain the manifolds via the quick plugs or do you actually pull hoses?

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Is your motor semi closed cooled like my LS3 nitrous?

What are your steps? Just drain the manifolds via the quick plugs or do you actually pull hoses?

Not sure if this helps...I also have a half loop closed system. I just drain the manifolds, vdrive, raw water pump and make sure I drain the water side of the heat exchanger. On my boat since the transmission cooler is along the floor I just pull the hose of that and it drains the raw water pump and heat exchanger at the same time. I pull the port side hose off the drive. That's it.

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Not sure if this helps...I also have a half loop closed system. I just drain the manifolds, vdrive, raw water pump and make sure I drain the water side of the heat exchanger. On my boat since the transmission cooler is along the floor I just pull the hose of that and it drains the raw water pump and heat exchanger at the same time. I pull the port side hose off the drive. That's it.

do you fill it back up with anti freeze?

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Inside an unheated garage. Low last year was -17. Speaking of the ballast pumps and lines how do I make sure those are drained

GP

Park on hill drain them, then have your kids take the shop vac and suck out water from all the drain holes on the sides of boat

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Drain water from the engine (several different locations to do this as mentioned in the video), manifolds, & tranny cooler. Use compressed air to blow out line to heater while the return line is disconnected and lying on the floor. Turn hot water shower on and drain all water out. Drain all ballast tanks (select drain all, then crank the the boat up high and down low until no more water comes out at either position). Drain all the water in the bilge out, since it will be full after draining your engine.

No anti-freeze necessary. Good idea to put fuel stabilizer in the gas just before your final use. I try to store the boat with as little fuel as possible. This year I managed to have only 1/16 of a tank left. Last year I was caught off guard and stored with 3/4 full tank.

I drain the water out of the impeller housing, but otherwise just leave the impeller alone. I replace the impeller every two years in spring with a new one (about $40). I change the engine oil every year when I winterize and the tranny and vdrive oils every other year when I winterize (I put about 40-45 hrs per year on the boat).

Remove all gear, and make sure everything is clean and dry. Cover the boat and put an RV fan on the floor. Turn off the battery switch and plug in your onboard battery charger (or hook up your batteries to a float charger if you haven't installed a promariner onboard charger yet).

Edited by Cory
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I'd say not enough info - how cold does it get where your boat will be stored? Inside or out? Now all the different opinions will come into play!

I don't think it matters how cold it gets where you live, unless guaranteed you live somewhere that NEVER freezes. From the perspective of water freeze damage, it doesn't matter if the temperatures drop to 30 F or - 30 F. It may take a couple days for water deep in the engine to freeze if the ambient temperature is only 30 F, but eventually it will freeze without a heat source. Ice at 30 F expands to the same size as ice at -30 F.

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