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Ball valves?


Levi900RR

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Interesting that Wakemakers are actually quite cheap for some of these fittings (check out prices on a 3/4" street 90) but others like ball valves they are double the cost. I really wish I could just spec out my entire system with them but I feel like if I do that I'll be just throwing money away...

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I have this one for my T-handle spot:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0062RXXRM/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1

But only paid $11.76 shipped, no tax, so it was a better deal than going the Lowes/HD route. All the same stuff. I found Wakemakers mushroom intakes super expensive as well and went elsewhere for that. I also did Amazon for my 90 degree brass stuff.

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Home plumbing is brass, marine plumbing is bronze. Home plumbing is NPT and most marine fittings are straight threads. I recommend and use the bronze marine fittings.

There is no reason to with bronze in marine applications over brass. Neither will corrode. I also prefer npt threads since they seal better that straight threads. I went with the mushroom intake and stainless vents/drains from wakemakers but bought the rest locally. Still looks professional and functions the same or better. I also bought the hose and ss clamps locally and saved money there too. It is the same hose but mine has blue ribs instead.

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For the $60 bucks Im going to waste going all through wakemakers for less hassle might make sense for me...

This is what it comes down to. I didn't find that they are lowest price on anything; you're paying for convenience. They have everything you need. For some things, like quick release bag fittings, you are paying for expertise.

The only item I couldn't get my head around was wire... Home Depot smokes them on wire price/foot, and HD wire prices are already exorbitant.

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There is no reason to with bronze in marine applications over brass. Neither will corrode. I also prefer npt threads since they seal better that straight threads. I went with the mushroom intake and stainless vents/drains from wakemakers but bought the rest locally. Still looks professional and functions the same or better. I also bought the hose and ss clamps locally and saved money there too. It is the same hose but mine has blue ribs instead.

Others have a different opion, although this would likely never happen in a fresh water trailer boat. Im also willing to bet that the ball and its seal in a marine bronze valve is a higher quality. http://www.cruisingworld.com/how/down-brass-tacks

Straight threads are not intended to seal, but you dont get a good fit when pairing NPT residential plumbing and straight threads.

You guys need to also take into account that you as a DIY'r and a retailer like WM, may approach these projects differently. Its your boat, you are free to do what you want, wire and plumb how you want and use whatever parts you want. WM and others have a professional interest vested in what they sell and the advice they offer.

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I have this one for my T-handle spot:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0062RXXRM/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1

But only paid $11.76 shipped, no tax, so it was a better deal than going the Lowes/HD route. All the same stuff. I found Wakemakers mushroom intakes super expensive as well and went elsewhere for that. I also did Amazon for my 90 degree brass stuff.

For the $60 bucks Im going to waste going all through wakemakers for less hassle might make sense for me...

I found out recently that those 1" Amazon ball valves are actually 3/4" valves (with 1" threads) while there are others that have the full 1" valves (with 1" threads)... You can call Apollo to confirm it if you would like...

So it turns out that some are full valves and some are partial. Currently I have the 3/4" ones, which makes no difference at the moment, but if I were you I would double check that you're actually getting the full 1" valves.

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three reasons I like wakemakers:

the know their stuff and will help confirm you've got what you need. You can call them, you can e-mail them. Try that with Amazon.

they have everything you need so you don't need to spend time scrounging around for stuff

no sales tax (we do pay tax on amazon shipments in NV)

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My experience with Wake Makers has been nothing but positive. They know their stuff and will share their knowledge and expertise. When they put something together for you it works and they'll stand behind it. To me that's worth the extra 10% they may charge and the time I'd spend chasing down quality products for my project.

On the parts and prices..... Just because you can buy something that looks the same and has a similar description on the web or at HD cheaper doesn't mean it's the same product or is built the same. Materials and actual design/function will vary by product and a lot of the Chinese junk being sold is substandard. There are different grades of stainless, copper and bronze as well as casting process and build processes that will keep galvanic corrosion at bay. Don't get me wrong if I can find THE EXACT product for less I too will jump at the opportunity as long as it makes sense.

On wiring.... Unless you're able to buy tinned copper wire at HD you shouldn't be looking there for your wire. Marine grade wire is tinned to prevent corrosion in the marine environment. Wire your system with cheap copper cable and we'll be looking for your post in a year or two about how your pumps won't run or the breakers keep tripping. A good place to get the correct electrical components rated for the marine environment is genuinedealz.com. About as cheap as you're going to find quality marine electrical products.

Parting thoughts.... When I'm out on the water with friends the last thing I want to do is have a system failure. As such when I work on my boat or do an upgrade I do it as professionally as I can and with the best products I can buy. I only want to do the job once and I want it to work every time. Sticking to quality marine grade products from good manufactures and dealers seems to have worked out for me. I've had 8 boat so far and not a one of them has been purchased new. That pretty much means I get to clean up the mess that either a PO has made from a DYI installation of some sort or the crap stereo installation the local budget stereo shop has passed on as a "professional" installation. I'm always puzzled why someone who just spent $30K. $40K or more on a boat can be hell bent on saving $10 on an upgrade project. But to each his own.

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On wiring.... Unless you're able to buy tinned copper wire at HD you shouldn't be looking there for your wire. Marine grade wire is tinned to prevent corrosion in the marine environment. Wire your system with cheap copper cable and we'll be looking for your post in a year or two about how your pumps won't run or the breakers keep tripping.

We must own a magical boat. Malibu didn't use tinned wire (nor tinned lugs) in our ~470 hour 2001 that spent 2001 - 2010 on a covered lift. Still going fine with no electrical issues. I got it in 2011...again, I must be purchasing magical wire as I've had no corrosion or other issues with the massive amount of wiring I've done in the first couple of years of boat ownership.

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On wiring.... Unless you're able to buy tinned copper wire at HD you shouldn't be looking there for your wire. Marine grade wire is tinned to prevent corrosion in the marine environment .

Assuming we are talking fresh water, Sn'd wire in a non-system critical application seems like a lot of overkill.

Wire your system with cheap copper cable and we'll be looking for your post in a year or two about how your pumps won't run or the breakers keep tripping. .

Wanna make this interesting?

Wire your system with cheap copper cable and we'll be looking for your post in a year or two about how your pumps won't run or the breakers keep tripping. .

What fail mode related to copper wire in a marine environment causes breakers to trip?

I apologize in advance if you were speaking in hyperbole. This forum is incredibly helpful. Because of the extreme enthusiasm of the members, there is a lot of advice that I find falls into the "overkill" category.

Edited by flapjack
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