Indmar monsoon 2012 cooling system upgrade

[Andrew63]

Hi crew, could someone post some pics of the cooling system hoses from their 2012 or newer monsoon.

There was a cooling system upgrade service bulletin with re routing & changing hoses for improved water flow I have read about.

The topic at

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/50095-etx-cat-cooling-system-upgrade/

Reply #10 describe the changes but some pics would be ideal.

Thought the new topic may get some pics from other members

Thanks in advance

Edited June 20, 2014 by Andrew63

[SmoothWaterMan]

[Andrew63]

This is the original set up on the 2011.

There has been an upgrade. IE re directing of hoses to improve circulation which came in sometime in 2012.

Have read where dealers have installed this change during a service.

From what I can follow, there is a new tight U shaped pipe to link some of the thermostat housing outlets to the block at the water pump end, one for each side the Dayco 70564 pipe & straight 1" pipe.

The mod is outlined in the link in my 1st post above but I could not follow which is why I am searching for some images, or diagrams.

[Andrew63]

found some info after searching classifieds for images of engines.

1st image is an early 2012

Last 2 are the upgraded 2012

Most obvious change is the hose from the top of the cat now is linked the barb in the stainless elbow of the exhaust post CAT.

Previously, this went to the thermostat housing

Edited June 21, 2014 by Andrew63

[Fman]

Assuming my 13 would already have this done?

[h2oskinut]

I am wondering if my re-plumb was done correctly?

My temp gauge is going hot after every high RPM run then to idle, it has always done this and after putting in a new thermostat and the re-plumb the temp is going up to 190ish and taking longer to go back down...

Please see the pics of my re-plumb 

https://prswatersports.com/TxiReplumb/

If you click the images they will enlarge. All the hoses are marked on the drawings.

Please let me know if you think I have anything wrong.

 

Thank you in advance Jon

[Woodski]

@h2oskinut - it sounds like there is either not enough water flow when the raw water pump slows down after a high RPM run.  That is either due to not enough supply water (weak or bad raw water pump or bad circulation pump impeller) or too much back pressure in the system restricting water flow.  I am not familiar with the Cat plumbing but it does seem odd that the cats require a recirculation thru the t-stat housing based on the plumbing diagram rather than a more simple in and dump exit.

[h2oskinut]

Woodski,

As for a weak raw water impeller I have never seen that, but one person claims that the blue water dry run pumps do not pump enough water, nice for me to hear since I have a brand new never used one in the garage they are like $40.

At this time I believe there are 2 problems, the engine circulating pump is bad, and there is a hole in the thermostat housing that needs to be blocked off, this was a band-aid fix that Indmar tried to solve the overheating of the CATs, before the replumb - a new thermostat housing was done for 2013 engines.

 

See: This post also, there has been a lot more discussion on this topic and I have shared new info that I have learned from a call to Indmar just today.

 

[PURDUEskier]

@h2oskinut did you get this issue solved? I am having the same issue. I was having some high temps. So I put a new thermostat and did the replumb.   My replumb looks exactly like yours but I dont think I have the hole in the thermostat housing.   Initially I thought I fixed it but now is worse. As you stated its getting hot and taking longer to come back down. What did you find?

[Andrew63]

Worth checking the circulation pump as there have been a few instances where the cast iron impeller inside the pump has cracked. This is the pump that is part of the engine (just like in your car), not the bolt on raw water punp.

When this cracks once you remove the drive belt the pully spins freely which is should. With the cracked cast iron impeller the crack is usually through the center around the spindle so the spindle spins freely thus not circulating the water. Just removing the belt to spin the pump by hand will not reveal if it is cracked, unless you hear a slight rattle which would be either stuffed bearings or the impeller cracked

So, when ideling the temp will rise as no water is being circulated, when you get underway, just the water pressure from the raw water punp is all that is circulation which could explain why it takes awhile to cool down.

This is what woodski was referring to in his comment "bad circulation pump impeller"

Half way down this post yu will see pics of what we are talking about

 

 

[UWSkier]

@braindamage

[Smokedvw]

Does anyone know if this "fix" goes back as far as 01 Monsoon 320/325's? 

Thank you

[justgary]

21 minutes ago, Smokedvw said:

Does anyone know if this "fix" goes back as far as 01 Monsoon 320/325's? 

Thank you

I would doubt it.  Didn't those all have cast iron manifolds?

[UWSkier]

On 7/11/2023 at 7:08 PM, Smokedvw said:

Does anyone know if this "fix" goes back as far as 01 Monsoon 320/325's? 

Thank you

does not cover that model year.  Different water flow on the '01s.