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ETX Cat Cooling system upgrade


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I just bought this from the dealer for $400.00. It is pretty much 12 ft of cooling hose and two molded hoses that are Dayco stock parts. Total cost of parts would have been about $40.00.

Felt like $40.00 for parts and $360.00 for knowing where to put them.

If people are interested in the schematic it is pretty easy to do.... looks the the key change is the hot cooling water is now cycled through the cats before being dumped overboard vs. the cats being in a recycle loop into the engine. It is supposed to prevent overheating and cracking of your manifolds.

Edited by G-Mack
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Hello G-Mack,

How did you find out about this upgrade kit? I would like to see a picture as well and to know what the part numbers are on the formed hoses. Is this upgrade just for the 340's or can it be used on the 350's also.

Thanks

Terry

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G - Mac

Is this for a particular motor?

Reason I ask is that I have the L96,

and the dealer informed me of a Indmar service release regarding cooling,

just after I bought her, Oct 2012. During his PDI in spring of 2013, I was

informed that this had already been done by Indmar.

Or is this something that was just realest new?

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Had mine done last year by indmar for free. Never knew it had to be done. I would try to get your money back. Something they should do a recall on but don't unless you say something to them.

  • Like 1
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Pics or a schematic please as I am keen to see where to change hoses.

Had one already split with pressure & heat so I am keen to see what the change involves.

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i will get it scanned and linked.

I should try to see about money back. By 2013 they were doing the cooling this way... dealer showed me a 12 that was upgraded. I was told this is for all ETX Cats but check with your dealer.

In written terms... I am referencing off of a V- Drive. Rear is relative to the boat.. rear is closer to the front of the engine. I am sure I will get the "this post is worthless with pictures" joker but I am not near the paperwork or a scanner for a few days.There may be some one out there that can.

Dis-assembly - per side

- remove the hoses completely from the boat to the middle and front 1" cooling hose connections on the thermostat housing. One to the top of the Cat and to the connection under the SS exhaust elbow (45 degree). The two larger hose for raw water in and water pump circulation remain connected on the thermostat housing.

-remove the 1" hose from the block connection above the waterpump to the exhaust manifold lower at the rear.

Now you have the two 1" fittings on the thermostat housing, the two 1" connections on the exhaust manifold, the 1" block connection and the 1" connect on the SS exhaust elbow open.

Install - Per side

Need two Dayco 70564 molded hoses, 2 x 51" 1" cooling hose, 2 x 13" 1" cooling hose.

1) replace your thermostat... not required.. but you are 2 bolts away.

2) Use the molded dayco hose to connect the block connection above the water pump to the rear 1" connection on the thermostat housing (lower of the two on the housing)

3) Connect the lower exhaust manifold connection to the front (upper) thermostat housing connection with the 13" hose.Tip - install the thermostat connection first.

4) Connect the 51" hose to the connection on the SS exhaust elbow, route the hose around the muffler and back up to the connection on the top of the exhaust manifold.

If I save one person from paying $400 for a little bit of cooling hose.... I may feel just a little better.

  • Like 3
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Hello G-Mack,

How did you find out about this upgrade kit? I would like to see a picture as well and to know what the part numbers are on the formed hoses. Is this upgrade just for the 340's or can it be used on the 350's also.

Thanks

Terry

found out about it here... talked to the dealer and they knew about it.

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Can you post pics? Or would we be able to figure it out by going to any dealers website and looking at pictures they post of new boats because a lot of the time they take a top picture of the engine?

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so I am not too sure about this "upgrade". I am missing something. Ran the boat on the fake a lake and had no water coming out the exhaust until the thermostat opened. The raw water pump was getting hot and squealing at bit as once the block was full as there was no flow of water out of the boat until the thermostat opened.

Seems like I am missing something. Is there a different thermostat housing that allows some water flow to bypass out the exhaust?

Thanks in advance.

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So if you have no cooling water until the thermostat opens, how do you keep from burning through your exhaust hose?

that is exactly what was concerning me... wondering if there is a different thermostat housing or something

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Wow. From what I hear, it only takes 20 seconds or so at skiing speed to burn through a hose. Idle may be somewhat longer, but still....

The stainless elbows after your cats may take the brunt of the heat, but it seems crazy to have dry exhaust at all. It's probably best to not run it that way.

Can you post a sketch of how the plumbing went before the mod?

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Oceanbu

I know mine is a DD, but I have the mode from Indmar,

Pop by one night and have a look! PM me.

I might have to take you up on that. Wondering if there is any difference with a closed cooling system. Though the part of the system that the change would take place in would be the raw water side so maybe I should still do it.

  • Like 1
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I kept an eye on things until the thermostat opened... nothing got hotter at idle than warm to the touch. Checked the raw water connection to the T-stat housing water was pumping when disconnected.

What doesn't make sense is the line that dumps overboard before the upgrade now goes through the cat so no water doesn't make sense. I have to take it to the dealer for two new wedge actuators next week so I will talk with them a bit more... not going out on the lake until it is understood.

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Anybody have a link to the actual service bulletin? Wondering what the rationale behind this is and if I really need to do this. Can't find anything that says a boat pre 2012 needs to have this done but looks like some people with boats made before that have had it done. Is it just all motors with ETX CATS that should have it done? Looks like I could just do it myself as G-MAck says,

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I kept an eye on things until the thermostat opened... nothing got hotter at idle than warm to the touch. Checked the raw water connection to the T-stat housing water was pumping when disconnected.

What doesn't make sense is the line that dumps overboard before the upgrade now goes through the cat so no water doesn't make sense. I have to take it to the dealer for two new wedge actuators next week so I will talk with them a bit more... not going out on the lake until it is understood.

Now you have me thinking for myself "if it ain't broke don't fix it". Just got the boat in the water for the summer and she is running like a top! Do I really want to mess around with it when it is running good right now?

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