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Bimini top installation questions...


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I am going to install the bimini top on my new Response myself. I have done it myself before on my Sportster but I remember that I drilled the holes too small in the gelcoat. :Doh: .. The SS screws were so tight that one actually broke (the last one...) Mad.gif while I was screwing it in by hand (with a screw driver, not drill). I had to drill her out and took actually more time then the rest of the job... Cry.gif I forget if the instructions that come with the bimini indicate what drill size to drill in the aluminum and the gelcoat? Has anyone done one recently and remember what they used? Dontknow.gif Has anyone had succes or not too much succes and want to share the dos and don'ts... Thanks in advance. :)

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I have a bimini on my Response. I set it up so it can fold forward and lay at the base of the windshield when not in use. If you mount it too low on the gunnel, you can't fold it forward. Also if not mounted high enough on the gunnel you can't open the windshield when the top is up.

Ther is a picture in my gallery http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index....&cmd=si&img=116

Also first drill holes with a small drill bit and then use larger bit to drill the holes larger. This will help to keep from splintering the gelcoat. Many suggest putting duct tape on the gel before drilling. Measure , measure, measure before drilling any holes.

Edited by BillFooter
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Also first drill holes with a small drill bit and then use larger bit to drill the holes larger. This will help to keep from splintering the gelcoat. Many suggest putting duct tape on the gel before drilling. Measure , measure, measure before drilling any holes.

Two things I'd add to these instructions:

1) Run the drill backwards with each bit until you are through the gel - it works quite well this way. If you run it forward through the gel, you risk catching an edge on the bit and chiping the gel.

2) As a final step on each hole, use an even larger bit (run backwards) to chamfer the edge of the hole - it will help to prevent spider cracks down the road.

I secured the main brackets to the deck with #10 or maybe even #12 screws (stainless of course). It was no doubt overkill, but it also made them less likely to break on me if I didn't get the hole sized quite right. As for the eyelets to anchor the top, I think I used #8s.

Whatever size screws you end up using, the hole only needs to be a hair smaller diameter. As you found out last time, glass has much less 'give' in it than wood. Consequently, the threads of the screw will not bite into the glass in the same way as it would a soft wood. It is more of a friction fit. If you have any doubts on the size of the hole you need, you can use a piece of oak (or any hard wood) as a test. It will act similarly, and should give you a pretty good feel for how likely you are to break off a screw.

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks guys! All went well with the info you gave me. Here are the details of the holes I drilled. I ordered the Malibu Bimini that mounts on the windshield rail by the way...

I drilled 9/64 in the wind shield rail (use punch to mark first). Put plenty of tape around in case...

For the fiber glass holes:

1- Marked the holes with a thin marker and put plenty of maskink tape over and around (you can see thru)

2-drilled 1/8 in reverse until threw the gelcoat

3-drilled 1/8 in forward all the way thru.

4- drilled 5/32 in reverse about 1/16 deep.

5- did a chamfer with a 1/4 inch drill bit in reverse.

Thanks for all the info guys! ;)

Edited by 1FootDan
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