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IXFE

DIY Exile build in my new LSV... (first time)

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IXFE

Now that I have my new LSV home my focus shifts to my Exile stereo installation. In the past I've had a professional installer take care of this, but this year I decided to tackle this on my own. I'm not necessarily doing this to save money (although that's a nice benefit); I'm really just craving a project, and I think I'll learn a lot.

Before some of you worry too much, I have lots of avenues I can explore for help:

  • Brian at Exile is only a 10 minutes away. I expect I'll have lots of questions for him, and he's encouraged me to not be shy about it.
  • I have a couple of local boat friends who have done this before and offered to help. One even works at my same company.
  • Youtube is my friend! Seems there's a video for just about everything out there.
  • Finally, this forum! I've already PM'd and gotten help/advice from Bobby Bright and Shawndoggy. Thanks guys!

Before I go further, I want to give a shout out to Brian at Exile. When I called him to tell him I was contemplating a DIY install, I thought he'd laugh and try to talk me out of it. Instead he encouraged me go for it and began to explain the process to me. Then he invited me down to his warehouse (after hours) to pick up my gear. While there he spent 2 hours with me walking me through every step of the install. I took copious notes. When I left, I felt humbled that he'd spend that much time teaching a noobie. I get the feeling he plays the "consultant" role for a lot of DIY guys all over the country. Thanks, Brian!

So here's the plan...

  • TOWER - 4 Exile XM9's running on an Exile 30.2 amp
  • CABIN - 4 Rockford M282B 8" + 4 Rockford M262B 6.5" on an Exile Javeline
  • SUB - Exile Xi12D in custom enclosure sharing the same Exile Javeline
  • EQ - Exile ZLD 2 (patiently waiting)
  • SOURCE - Samsung Galaxy Note 2, iPhone 5s, etc. through AUX (iTunes, Pandora, etc.). I have no plans for a 2nd source, but may look into a BT option or may a Sirius receiver later.

Why am I going with Rockfords in the cabin? Simple, Exile doesn't offer an 8" speaker (yet) and I'm confident the Rockfords will sound good when properly powered. Also, in the absence of a completely matched set of speakers, I default back to a factory look. Finally, they are priced right on eBay! That is, unless somebody here has some take-outs they want to sell me. :whistle:

I am not going to be building or installing the sub or the enclosure. That work will get subbed out.

I'm starting this thread because I want somewhere to share my progress and get my questions answered. To make it easy for you guys, I'm going to post the questions like this so they are easy to spot.

So, if some of you experienced guys see entertainment value in watching a rookie fumble through a complicated install, this is your thread!

Thanks for following!

Edited by IXFE

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IXFE

Here are the XM9's, the amps, and the install kit (wires, tower adapters, etc.)

20140505_210318_zpsj6oj04h8.jpg

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IXFE

Last night I dove in on the tower speaker installation. I started here for a couple or reasons, 1) I don't have the cabin speakers yet, and 2) This is the easiest step, and I want to build my confidence before tackling the amp rack.

Luckily there's a DIY video that Brian made last year. Ironically, it was made using my old boat. So last night I sat in my new boat in the garage with my laptop open following every step meticulously.

I got the G3 tower adapters built and wired. But that's where I stopped. I couldn't get the factory tower speaker wire pulled out far enough to wire it to the new adapters. I think it's because I was working in the garage with the tower lowered. So today I'll pull the boat out into he driveway, raise the tower and hopefully that gives the tower wire enough slack to pull it out all the way.

20140509_232531_zpsuofwsuu8.jpg

Edited by IXFE

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IXFE

After I finish the tower speaker installation. I'll be starting on the amp rack (my boat didn't come with one). Brian explained all the steps to me. I just have one question (for now)...

Can somebody with a new LSV measure their factory amp rack and post a pic of it?

I know I don't have to stick to exact factory dimensions, but I figure it's a good place start.

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wakebrdr94

For the tower speaker wire, you may have to find the wire under gunnel and pull some slack and feed it into the tower. That's what I had to do.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Bawshogg

Make sure the amp rack is not too tall that it won't fit through the opening under the seat. Does your hull have the mounting blocks glued to it? Check that first. Your amp rack will not need to be very big given you will only have a few small amps to put on it.

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IXFE
For the tower speaker wire, you may have to find the wire under gunnel and pull some slack and feed it into the tower. That's what I had to do.

This did the trick! I was able to get enough slack without raising the tower.

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IXFE
Make sure the amp rack is not too tall that it won't fit through the opening under the seat. Does your hull have the mounting blocks glued to it? Check that first. Your amp rack will not need to be very big given you will only have a few small amps to put on it.

Good tip. I'll be sure to measure.

I was thinking I should make the board long enough to accommodate a 3rd amp or a RF black box in case I decide to add those later.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk

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shawndoggy

since you aren't shy about harbor freight... they have heat shrink butt splices and heat guns. You should use both. It is a boat and can get wet. image_20084.jpg

image_23213.jpg

Edited by shawndoggy

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pennery

Good tip. I'll be sure to measure.

I was thinking I should make the board long enough to accommodate a 3rd amp or a RF black box in case I decide to add those later.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk

You won't keep it long enough to add components later...

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jk13

since you aren't shy about harbor freight... they have heat shrink butt splices and heat guns. You should use both. It is a boat and can get wet.

First thing I saw. Second is make sure you give each connection a decent tug when crimped. I only use crimpers with an opposing tooth because I find the connections more reliable than the ones that have football shaped crimp areas.

You are in great hands so far! Shouldn't be a problem completing a job you'll be very happy with.

Edited by jk13

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shawndoggy

First thing I saw. Second is make sure you give each connection a decent tug when crimped. I only use crimpers with an opposing tooth because I find the connections more reliable than the ones that have football shaped crimp areas.

You are in great hands so far! Shouldn't be a problem completing a job you'll be very happy with.

ha, they have these at harbor freight too:

image_17524.jpg

But I don't like to use the super toothy crimp (farthest into the jaws) with those HF heat shrink butt splices because the heat shrink stuff isn't as robust as the nicer ones (3M or Ancor) and you have a good chance of tearing through. The "pinchy" crimp on these which is right after the cutter does a good job and won't tear the heat shrink.

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jk13

We went through this a couple years ago LOL. Solder corrodes just as quickly as a crimp connector. You're still adding a dissimilar metal to the equation, plus you are taking away the flexibility of the wire for a larger area by floating the solder into the strands if you do it right. I don't see one as far superior to the other.

Bottom line is if done properly they both work well, and I've seen as many poor solder connections as poor crimps in all my days of repairing other people's wiring. If they're not smart enough to figure out a crimp they're usually not smart enough to melt dissimilar metals together the proper way. IME at least. Lots of hard loops not making contact with the other wire running through the center (cold solder) and lots of broken wires at the edge of the hard joint (brittle joint or corrosion). With crimps it's usually just loose and can be pulled out with little effort, or the aforementioned corrosion.

NONE of this is a dig at IXFE, just sharing 25 years of pro car audio/modifying experience, seeing all types of installs and their failures.…...

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IXFE

Thanks for all the tips, guys. It's hard for a someone like me to discern which of all that is critic or just personal preference. Yesterday was the first time I ever crimped anything in my life. I sure hope I'm doing it right... they do feel really secure. I'm pretty sure I'd botch a soldering job, or make a complete mess of the boat.

As for Harbor Freight, I'd never even stepped foot in one until yesterday either. I only went there after reading about it on this forum.

I need to get going on the amp rack. I'm waiting for my dealer to get me some factory carpet. In the meantime, I need to lay it out and figure out what size board to buy (thinking 1/2" plastic). I'm super nervous about attaching it to the inside wall of the boat. I've read a few threads on this, and like the wire connections, it seems there are dozens of opinions on what the proper method is.

Edited by IXFE

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shawndoggy

I'm shocked you guys use crimp connectors. If you want it to last in a marine environment and you want a better connection in the long run, solder is the way to fly IMHO.

I appreciate your commitment, but heat shrinked butt splices are going to outlast the boat. Maybe not to the level of solder, but to the point that nobody cares for sure. I wonder if the high end installers solder everything?

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shawndoggy

Thanks for all the tips, guys. It's hard for a someone like me to discern which of all that is critic or just personal preference. Yesterday was the first time I ever crimped anything in my life. I sure hope I'm doing it right... they do feel really secure. I'm pretty sure I'd botch a soldering job, or make a complete mess of the boat. As for Harbor Freight, I'd never even stepped foot in one until yesterday either. I only went there after reading about it on this forum. I need to get going on the amp rack. I'm waiting for my dealer to get me some factory carpet. In the meantime, I need to lay it out and figure out what size board to buy (thinking 1/2" plastic). I'm super nervous about attaching it to the inside wall of the boat. I've read a few threads on this, and like the wire connections, it seems there are dozens of opinions on what the proper method is.

Does your boat have the stand off blocks for the amp rack mounted to the hull or do you have to do that too?

The size of the rack is not that hard... measure with a measuring tape, make a mock up with cardboard, see if you can get it in there, trim down mock up as needed.

half inch or 3/8" hdpe or abs plastic would work well.

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tjklein

Thanks for all the tips, guys. It's hard for a someone like me to discern which of all that is critic or just personal preference. Yesterday was the first time I ever crimped anything in my life. I sure hope I'm doing it right... they do feel really secure. I'm pretty sure I'd botch a soldering job, or make a complete mess of the boat. As for Harbor Freight, I'd never even stepped foot in one until yesterday either. I only went there after reading about it on this forum. I need to get going on the amp rack. I'm waiting for my dealer to get me some factory carpet. In the meantime, I need to lay it out and figure out what size board to buy (thinking 1/2" plastic). I'm super nervous about attaching it to the inside wall of the boat. I've read a few threads on this, and like the wire connections, it seems there are dozens of opinions on what the proper method is.

You'll need at least 1/2", but it will still have some flex. I thought I could do 1/2" starboard in my last boat and it was just okay, for this boat I thought about 3/8" lexan/acrylic, but the same thing happened so I ended up backing it with wood and carpeting the surround. It turned out great, but it wasn't my initial plan.

As far as wiring (from another of your posts) I would stick with the factory configuration unless you plan on running crazy power or more than 1 amp. I have an Exile XM15.4 power 4 WS 808s, and 4 WS 650s and it absolutely slams the cabin. (HP crossover at 80 for the 808s and 100 for the 650s)

Here's a pick of my amp rack. Looks better in person and I need to finish it off with more LED lighting, grommets, and edge covers, but you get the idea. This is about 75% done.

Also, I'm doing the same thing with the iPad mini. I've got a few ideas, but I'll share those in another topic down the road. Still brainstorming and sourcing parts.

Trevor

IMG_0651_zps36022bb7.jpg

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Fman

Dave, this is going to be fun to follow, especially for me since I have zero stereo install knowledge. I'm hoping I can learn a few things from you.

That being said, one thing I noticed my installer did that I changed was he covered my sub box in all weather carpet. The problem was he mounted the box on the floor. I was concerned about mildew if the floor ever got wet and water made it under the box, so I elevated the box with rubber stoppers approx 1" off the floor to allow air flow under it. Just something to consider when mounting you sub box.

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IXFE

Does your boat have the stand off blocks for the amp rack mounted to the hull or do you have to do that too?

The size of the rack is not that hard... measure with a measuring tape, make a mock up with cardboard, see if you can get it in there, trim down mock up as needed.

half inch or 3/8" hdpe or abs plastic would work well.

I don't think I have any stand off blocks. Take a look... it just looks like smooth carpet.

(side note... why on earth did Malibu skip the carpet in the floor under the glove box? It's just smooth, black gel coat. I asked me dealer for a piece of carpet to put there. Lame that I have to do that.)

20140511_090501_zpscvmswltd.jpg

Edited by IXFE

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IXFE

Dave, this is going to be fun to follow, especially for me since I have zero stereo install knowledge. I'm hoping I can learn a few things from you.

That being said, one thing I noticed my installer did that I changed was he covered my sub box in all weather carpet. The problem was he mounted the box on the floor. I was concerned about mildew if the floor ever got wet and water made it under the box, so I elevated the box with rubber stoppers approx 1" off the floor to allow air flow under it. Just something to consider when mounting you sub box.

I won't be building or mounting my sub box... I'm going to outsource that to a professional installer. Since I have more room under the helm this year the plan is to go with a ported enclosure. :)

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IXFE

Take a look at the factory amp rack on Rainman's new MXZ. Do you notice the plastic channel running along the bottom? Is that something I need for mine?

5w9h15.jpg

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Bawshogg

Not a necessity, but it's a nice way to help mount the rack.

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Cory

IXFE did you get a heater (2 or 3 port if so)? Just curious why you have more room for the sub this year.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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IXFE
IXFE did you get a heater (2 or 3 port if so)? Just curious why you have more room for the sub this year.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope! I skipped the heater for just this reason. We almost never used it anyway. I hated how Malibu puts two vents under the helm and one up in the walkway, basically making all three inaccessible to the passengers.

Pics in a few hours...

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