House Loads and Engine Loads (Yes yet another dual battery ?)

[MLA]

Hey mike you wire the amps to the switch with the add a battery, right? Just for giggles you should share your diagram with vlong... He'd understand it and it might be preferable for him?

Yes, thats how I do it. With the switch on, which is needed to even start the boat, the amps get power, OFF means no voltage to the amps or ANY other house load. So no parasitic draws when the boat is stored. Theres no advantage IMO, to bypassing the switch with the amps' B+.

Here is Shawn's diag that I made a couple of quick adjustments to back during another thread.

[vlong]

Yes, that is my idea of a set up.

Wow, thank you guys for the help. Before I got on line this evening, my local Wetsounds dealer had me going back to the manual switch.

I feel much better about it now that I can bounce off of you guys and real experience. It takes some work to do it right but I sure will feel better out on the water.

Thanks again, I will post pics after the install in a couple of weeks.

[formulaben]

Exactly how mine is wired. Stereo has no power whatsoever from the house battery.

As for the anchor/interior - convert them over to LED then the draw will be so insignificant you won't need to worry about it.

I did both the Blue Sea ACR and the LED light conversion...oh, and bought one of these:

(yes, I'm neurotic about getting stranded)

[Nitrousbird]

For charging, I simply pull the ground lead to the ACR, so the batteries charge separately.

You could alternatively put the ground lead on a switch or add in a relay normally closed relay that opens when the shore charger is plugged in.

[formulaben]

For charging, I simply pull the ground lead to the ACR, so the batteries charge separately.

You could alternatively put the ground lead on a switch or add in a relay normally closed relay that opens when the shore charger is plugged in.

Couldn't you just turn your master switch to OFF?

[vlong]

Here it is.