Bypassing ignition for stereo on 2014vlx

[auwdawg]

Finally got to this. Tied the small red wire heading into the BB to the yellow wire. Works as planned but think I do have some feedback ( not sound) back into RF screen as a few number show up even when it is turned off.

Spike, Just snip the white with a blue stripe and call it good?

Makes total sense to me to tied the red and yellow together. One reason I don't care for the secondary switch inside as I would like to turn on the stereo from the ground while the boat is on the trailer.

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[shawndoggy]

I am going to be tackling this soon. I'd like to be able to turn my battery switch (blue sea add a battery) off and keep HU memory (yellow) hot but turn off HU ign (red), so tying the two together doesn't really work for me. I think I am just going to re-pin the red and yellow wires on the boat side of the harness with the yellow going to the stereo battery post on the switch and the red going to the output post on the switch. So in essence, my big red battery switch will be doing the job of the ignition.

Now this "cut the white with blue stripe wire" business has me a little confused. The RFX5000 doesn't have a white with blue stripe wire coming out of the black box, but I understand that Malibu may use different color wires on the other side of the harness. Anybody know which wire the white with blue stripe corresponds to on the RFX5000 side on the harness?

Edited January 19, 2015 by shawndoggy

[MLA]

Now this "cut the white with blue stripe wire" business has me a little confused. The RFX5000 doesn't have a white with blue stripe wire coming out of the black box

The WT/BL is Malibu's wire on the boat harness, not RF's wire from the 5000.

I would just leave the red as is, and clip the yellow off the boat harness and run a new wire over to the battery side # 2 post of the Dual Circuit Plus switch. Or directly to the battery. MEM/B+ is now an actual B+ constant, while the switched red stays switched through both the button and the main battery switch.

Edited January 19, 2015 by MLA

[shawndoggy]

The WT/BL is Malibu's wire on the boat harness, not RF's wire from the 5000.

I would just leave the red as is, and clip the yellow off the boat harness and run a new wire over to the battery side # 2 post of the Dual Circuit Plus switch. Or directly to the battery. MEM/B+ is now an actual B+ constant, while the switched red stays switched through both the button and the main battery switch.

I want to get red off of ignition though so that the stereo doesn't reset every time I turn the boat off. That's why I'd like red on the main battery switch.

What does the white with blue stripe wire correspond to on the RFX5000?

[MLA]

I understand now, you are performing to mods in one. The boat's WT/BL connects to the RF's harness blue. What ive done in the past, is take it off the button at the helm, and wire it to a new small rocker. Head-unit can be powered up independent of the maliview.

[shawndoggy]

I understand now, you are performing to mods in one. The boat's WT/BL connects to the RF's harness blue. What ive done in the past, is take it off the button at the helm, and wire it to a new small rocker. Head-unit can be powered up independent of the maliview.

I am confused. blue is the trigger wire (power antenna), per the diagram above, yes? Why is the blue wire tied to a button at the helm?

[MLA]

I am confused. blue is the trigger wire (power antenna), per the diagram above, yes? Why is the blue wire tied to a button at the helm?

oops, sorry, brain fart. The boat's white/blue wire terminates to the RF's red wire thats labeled above as " RED Ignition Switch (B+)". The boats white/blue has 12V on it when the key is on or the button (on later models) is bushed. Moving it to its one dedicated rocker does the trick.

[auwdawg]

Not sure anyone cares but...

By connecting the red wire running into the RF BB to the yellow wire into the RFBB has the stereo working w/o the ignition on but has the RF screens, both main and remote, counting up in minutes on the read out. Have no idea if this is normal or not as the 2014 VLX is new to me.

What I am after is "normal" stereo operation without having to push the dash on button.

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[spikew919]

Finally got to this. Tied the small red wire heading into the BB to the yellow wire. Works as planned but think I do have some feedback ( not sound) back into RF screen as a few number show up even when it is turned off.

Spike, Just snip the white with a blue stripe and call it good?

Makes total sense to me to tied the red and yellow together. One reason I don't care for the secondary switch inside as I would like to turn on the stereo from the ground while the boat is on the trailer.

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you can try it without cutting the white with blue striped wire but if the maliview screen lights up then yes you can cut the wire. Kinda weird how it's all hooked up. There is literally 6 wires soldered together with heat shrink over them where I made my connection. Make sure tho that it is the white with blue that goes to the radio. Because there is like 3 white with blue striped wires running around the same harness. Goin to beeper on back of boat and I think wire for underwater lights are the same too. That's was almost a year ago. Going off my memory here. Haha

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Edited February 4, 2015 by spikew919

[shawndoggy]

OK so let's recap what I'm trying to do:

1. I want power (Black Box Yellow) straight from my battery (fused of course).

2. I want switched power / IGN (white with blue stripe on boat side, Black Box Red) to turn on with a switch independent of the dash so that the stereo stays on regardless of the dash.

3. I want ground in common with my amps.

I have repinned the factory harness so that:

ground goes to my amp's ground

constant power (BB Yellow) goes to my stereo battery bank (fused)

switched power (BB Red) goes to my amp's power

^^^ my amp's power input comes on when my battery switch is on and is cut off when the battery switch is off.

So that should mean that when I turn the battery switch on, the stereo comes on, right?

Next question: now that I know that switched power (BB Red) used to be hooked to factory white with blue stripe (dash power) and that the Mobile Device Gateway was powered by the same white/blue stripe wire to this MDG purple wire, will I be causing any problems by powering up the MDG before the Maliview, or should I nonetheless leave the MDG on dash power instead of switched power from my battery switch?? In other words, must the MDG turn on and off with the Maliview, or is it ok if the MDG stays on while the Maliview turns on and off?

Edited March 26, 2015 by shawndoggy

[MLA]

If it were I, anything triggered by the boats wht/blue switch ign, I would want it still all tied together, to what ever means its going to get triggered now. In your case, its going to be a constant (technically) B+ thats run through the main battery switch.

[shawndoggy]

If it were I, anything triggered by the boats wht/blue switch ign, I would want it still all tied together, to what ever means its going to get triggered now. In your case, its going to be a constant (technically) B+ thats run through the main battery switch.

The "keeping it tied together" is the problem.... that white blue stripe wire (according to this thread) originates from the maliview and that's what powers it up. I definitely don't WANT to keep everything tied to maliview.

Only constant while the big red switch is turned on. So technically switched. It's just that my switch will be that big red one in the observer's compartment rather than a rocker on the dash, right?

I mean I do have a stereo rocker that I could install over on the dash side, but it seems redundant if I can turn the stereo completely off with the battery switch. We're good about doing that as part of our shut down routine.

But I could certainly be talked into doing it a different way if I'm doing it wrong!

Edited March 26, 2015 by shawndoggy

[MLA]

i wouldnt consider the maliview part of the audio system, unless it was the some means of controlling the stereo at the helm.

[auwdawg]

I just finished this project. What I did, and to each his own, was to take power off of the yellow wire leading into the BB and cut the red wire wire heading into the BB. I took the "boat" side of that red wire I cut, and the power off of the yellow wire (not cut), and ran both into a single pole, double throw switch. I chose a radio shack toggle, but there are tons of choices ourt there for these including a rocker. Just make sure it is a single pole, double throw switch. Then take the BB side of the red wire (the one I cut) and run that into the switch as well. I mounted my toggle inside the glove box, out of the way. The switch allows you to switch between constant power (in from the yellow) and a stock form of power (the red). Switched to the "red" side, the stereo works as delivered from the factory. In other words, full dash on including Malivue. Switched to the yellow side, I can use the stereo without the full dash lighting up.

We are in the boat for extended periods of time, just floating down our river, listening to music. Makes no sense to me to have anything on but the stereo.

The only downside I have found with this set up is that switched to the yellow side, the stereo display shows a clock like setting, that counts up in minutes while switched to the yellow side, even with the stereo off. I really doubt that is bad and doubt that it creates any kind of real battery drain. For my peace of mind, I configured mine to be able to switch back to a stock configuration, eliminating that issue.

I had no issues with white wires with a blue stripe or a purple wire. I only touched those mentioned above. Works great and I'm happy with it.

One other comment.....this is on a 2014 VLX. Sorry...having trouble updating "my boat"

Edited April 9, 2015 by auwdawg