Custom box for jl w6

[shawndoggy]

Google AV Priority. He is a cusom eBay box builder. Has ported boxes for W6v3 that match JL specs. Just got mine for $135 and I promise it is the nicest box you will find. It is all CNC cut and it has a cone support I have never seen. So so nice. The carpet job was flawless seriously amazed at the box. You will not find nicer. I promise!!!!

was it waterproofed?

[MEYJR]

I stopped into the Plano Earmark just yesterday to see Odin about an RV I'm getting. He showed me a Supra with a floor hump under the driver's helm and it was getting a 12W6v3 in a bass-reflex enclosure. That's a big box and no easy task in that boat while maintaining decent leg room. He was showing me a multi-step process where they treat the exterior and interior of the enclosure and get the sealer to penetrate deep into the MDF pores. Very impressive.

David, If I take my boat to Joe in Lewisville will Odin be building my box? Or does the Lewisville store have a box specialist also?

[David]

MEYJR,

Same name, two different corporations. Joe can do anything.

[MEYJR]

MEYJR,

Same name, two different corporations. Joe can do anything.

That is confusing. I know the last sub I bought from Joe for my son's car was when he was still in Addison. He didn't have the sub so sent me to Plano to pick it up. Oh no wait, it was Richardson I think. To many locations on the north side. I told Joe we need one on the south side. So the box I get built in Addison will be just as good? Just curious since I just read so much about Odin building great boxes.

[David]

MEYJR,

You're talking to the wrong guy because I'm not working for either. But I can tell you....Two locations only. Two different corporations. But it is a cooperative arrangement where they unselfishly share inventory, resources and training, and have pretty much equal capabilities.

Lewisville obviously has more marine opportunities since they are located along the nautical mile. Plano has the on-line store.

[shawndoggy]

And this is why. http://www.teamrocs.com/technical/pages/boxes.htm NOT a dig. Box listed is a band pass and wanted to note it.

If you don't have a table saw or better yet a track saw, s*** pile of Bessey clamps, router and bits, this isn't a bad way to go.

So I'm geeking out on track saws. Which one do you have? Am I foolish to think I'd be happy with one of the cheap ones (http://www.grizzly.com/products/t25552)?

[robtr8]

The link doesn't take me to any particular item so I'm not sure what "cheap" version you're looking at.

I had a kitchen client that wanted a cork tile floor. The body was one color and we needed to inset a diamond shape of another color right in the middle of the field. We wound up purchasing a Festool TS 55. Absolutely freakin' awesome tool. Laser straight cut with no tear out. Kenny kept that tool when I left Michigan and we divided up the tools. Seems like every year I have a job that really makes me wish I still had access to it but not enough that I'd drop out $600+. I've looked at the DeWalt version but it would only save about $100. I'm kinda nutty this way but, if I'm buying a track saw, it's going to be the real deal. In the mean time, I have a Bosch portable table with a Forrest blade.

[shawndoggy]

Yes, the festool keeps getting mentioned. But holy cow man that's a lot of scratch and I'm a hack. I mean I'm just using a skil saw and harbor freight router!

Does this link work? http://www.grizzly.com/products/Track-Saw-Master-Pack/T25552

[robtr8]

Link worked. Here's a review. http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/grizzly-track-saw-review/

[shawndoggy]

Yeah I read that. Coming from a super janky consumer grade radial saw, sounds like it's still a pretty good upgrade?

[Bawshogg]

I've found that as cool as that trac saw is, I have an quality table saw, a 12" sliding CMS and nice worm drive.....I have never needed much of anything else to do all the projects I have ever needed to do.

[robtr8]

I've found that as cool as that trac saw is, I have an quality table saw, a 12" sliding CMS and nice worm drive.....I have never needed much of anything else to do all the projects I have ever needed to do.

I agree. Our shop had a Unisaw with huge out tables, bench mounted 12" DeWalt slider, mill, planer and a full dust system. And of course we all carried circle saws. Most of the guys had DeWalts. One guy liked Matkita. I personally couldn't saw a straight line to save my life until I bought the Ridgid worm drive.

Shaun, what you've got is fine for sub floors or roof decks but if you're going to do any kind of high tolerance cuts, you need something better. I think the Grizzly is worth a shot. There's one other thing that a track saw is good for, keeping you're fingers. Lots of table saw accidents every year.

[MEYJR]

I agree. Our shop had a Unisaw with huge out tables, bench mounted 12" DeWalt slider, mill, planer and a full dust system. And of course we all carried circle saws. Most of the guys had DeWalts. One guy liked Matkita. I personally couldn't saw a straight line to save my life until I bought the Ridgid worm drive.

Shaun, what you've got is fine for sub floors or roof decks but if you're going to do any kind of high tolerance cuts, you need something better. I think the Grizzly is worth a shot. There's one other thing that a track saw is good for, keeping you're fingers. Lots of table saw accidents every year.

I can testify to this. I am missing the tip of my middle finger from a table saw.

[shawndoggy]

yeah I also have a 1970s handmedown janky craftsman table saw, but it's got the smallest table in the world. Not a precision instrument, and definitely not something I want to rip a sheet of MDF or ply on. Plus my garage looks like IXFEs, so I don't have the luxury of a "shop." More like a few sawhorses that can be drug out and put away same day.

[David]

Pertaining to the saw safety issue above, do the following to eliminate any potential for injury. There is not a more important subject.

Always wear safety glasses. No exceptions.

Make sure that the saw is in the best working order with blade and fence in the proper adjustment so that the wood stock will not get in a bind and fire back at you.

Never have your hand closer than a full expanded hand width to the saw blade. No exceptions. Use push sticks. Buy push sticks. Make push sticks. Screw sticks to the work material, pull off the sticks afterwards and fill the holes. Go to the extra measures rather than take risks.

I have built entire stores with displays and fixtures, helped construct a home, and have done woodworking since a teenager with never a close call. But I never lost my fear of the tools and never lost respect for the safety procedures.

[bbbabe1]

Pertaining to the saw safety issue above, do the following to eliminate any potential for injury. There is not a more important subject.

Always wear safety glasses. No exceptions.

Make sure that the saw is in the best working order with blade and fence in the proper adjustment so that the wood stock will not get in a bind and fire back at you.

Never have your hand closer than a full expanded hand width to the saw blade. No exceptions. Use push sticks. Buy push sticks. Make push sticks. Screw sticks to the work material, pull off the sticks afterwards and fill the holes. Go to the extra measures rather than take risks.

I have built entire stores with displays and fixtures, helped construct a home, and have done woodworking since a teenager with never a close call. But I never lost my fear of the tools and never lost respect for the safety procedures.

2nd'd. A few years ago, a buddy of mine was using a table saw that wasn't safe and almost lost his thumb. Safety first, always.

Here's a picture of his hand at the ER (it's a little gruesome): http://imgur.com/0N1MM5D

[MEYJR]

Pertaining to the saw safety issue above, do the following to eliminate any potential for injury. There is not a more important subject.

Always wear safety glasses. No exceptions.

Make sure that the saw is in the best working order with blade and fence in the proper adjustment so that the wood stock will not get in a bind and fire back at you.

Never have your hand closer than a full expanded hand width to the saw blade. No exceptions. Use push sticks. Buy push sticks. Make push sticks. Screw sticks to the work material, pull off the sticks afterwards and fill the holes. Go to the extra measures rather than take risks.

I have built entire stores with displays and fixtures, helped construct a home, and have done woodworking since a teenager with never a close call. But I never lost my fear of the tools and never lost respect for the safety procedures.

Speaking from experience I have 1 more. LEAVE THE GUARD ON!!! I Was using a buddy's table saw and he had removed the guard so it would cut better. I was using a push stick but when the piece I was cutting got to the end it threw it and I either fell or got pulled forward. Didn't even feel it. I thought wow that was close. Looked down and end of finger was gone. Happens so quick.

[Bawshogg]

You guys are freaking me out. Never been scarred of the tools, and never had any lasting injuries from any tool.

[BaBaLoO]

Had anyone moved their heater to the right side of the boat instd of the stock position right behind the kick plate/ sub? If so anything I need to be aware of?

[bunji169]

Right side of boat? Don't screw through the hull. I moved mine up and to the left as far as I could get it to make room for my custom W7 box. Fits perfect now.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[NHolladay]

was it waterproofed?

I do not think it is waterproofed, but I am not planning on using it in the lake. And god forbid my boat fills with water. I think whether my sub box was waterproof will be the least of my concerns. I suppose you could have it glassed.

[Bawshogg]

Good luck with that.........

No matter what, you will have moisture issues with raw MDF in a boat. If you don't take precations to waterproof or seal the substrate, you may as well just order two. Work on sealing one while you listened to the other in the boat for the first season. During the winter when you find the first one is swollen up and falling apart then it will be easy to swap out to the sealed unit.

We are not telling you this to be jerks, just sharing some well known info , as a few of us have made this mistake. Moisture will make its way into your boat somehow unless you just leave it in the garage. Trust us here.

[NHolladay]

Good luck with that.........

No matter what, you will have moisture issues with raw MDF in a boat. If you don't take precations to waterproof or seal the substrate, you may as well just order two. Work on sealing one while you listened to the other in the boat for the first season. During the winter when you find the first one is swollen up and falling apart then it will be easy to swap out to the sealed unit.

We are not telling you this to be jerks, just sharing some well known info , as a few of us have made this mistake. Moisture will make its way into your boat somehow unless you just leave it in the garage. Trust us here.

Bobby thank you for the info. It as kind of a D&$% response and I thank you for the information. I see where you are at on the logic behind it. Sorry for being rude. You the man