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Custom box for jl w6


BaBaLoO

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Just wondering if anyone has built a custom ported box for the jl 12w6v3? Looking to make one for my 09 lsv. Worried that the jl specs for the box most likely won't fit under the helm so looking at some other options, maybe putting some angles in. My worry is the vent/port length. If my heights and widths of the box are different then the jl specs how do I adjust accordingly?

Thanks

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I will start by saying that the majority of free computer box builders out there are not accurate. One thing that they do not do is account for total port volue. This is the chunk that the port space takes away from in the internal volume of the box. The worst is the RE Audio calcualtor - pure garbage.

So a ported box needs to be all said and done 1.3 cu.ft. after you subtract the woofer displacemtn and the port displacement. There are two ways to get started.

1.) Find a way to put a 1.8 cu.ft (internal volume) box in that space. Most likley your port area and displacement will consume .5 cu.ft. - You can start working on your box that way. If you can send JL Audio the dimension of the box - they will map it out for and even get you a cut sheet.

The second way involves putting the port on the exterior of the box...I would reach out to David or Odin with Earmark on that Philosophy.

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You need to try to keep the same port length and size. It dictates port velocity. There are ways to change the port size/length depending on the desired tuning frequency.

That box they spec out will definetly not fit under the helm of most Malibus. With some math you can change the box dimensions and port length/size to be able to fit under the helm, 1.3 cubic feet is easily attainable in almost all the Malibu helms, it's just the shape has to change. I usually use an online calculator to help me along when calculating box volume and port dimensions.

Here are a few
http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31
http://www.mobileinformationlabs.com/HowTo-1Woofer-Box-CAL%20Port%20lenth%201.htm
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp#porsq

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As is, that is a very small enclosure for a bass-reflex 12-inch with a very long port. A smaller enclosure will require a longer port and you'll begin to diminish the efficiency benefits of bass reflex.

You can freely change the enclosure shape, as long as you maintain the identical displacement. It can't get too extreme or too elongated or with extended appendages.

You can change the port shape as long as you maintain the identical surface area and length.

JL Audio uses proprietary programming based on higher signal levels. Other computer programs used to re-design the enclosure may not yield the same results. So I would stay close to JL's numbers and do the tedious long hand math.

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Ok thanks for the input. Jls specs call for a slottled vent instead of a round port. Total length of the port has to be 37.125" I believe. So are you saying that as long as the length is the same I'm all good? Does the height matter? The height on jls specs is 12.5" but I was wanting to go a little taller.

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I have been using the 12volt calculator to help out and these dimensions look like they would work 18.25"w x 16"h x 13.25"d gives me 1.3128 cuft with slot and woofer displacement. Only concern is that the slot length shorter by about 15 inches and the slot height would be taller by about 4 inches.

Edited by BaBaLoO
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Ok thanks for the input. Jls specs call for a slottled vent instead of a round port. Total length of the port has to be 37.125" I believe. So are you saying that as long as the length is the same I'm all good? Does the height matter? The height on jls specs is 12.5" but I was wanting to go a little taller.

yes, it matters. Port volume, and its ratio to the rest of the box is what gives a box a tuning frequency. Like Murphy said, the easiest way to solve this riddle is figure out your external dimensions and then call JL.

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There is another option. I use a box designer named Pete. You'll find him at PWKdesignes.com and on the YouTube at Hexibase.

http://youtu.be/VUOGvEyVc0g

He's kind of a nut job.

I gave him my application (boat), external dimensions (under the helm), available sub power (500 watts), driver choice (10" Kicker Solobaric) and goal (SQL). He shoots back a "yeah, we can do that, gimme $65". A couple days later I get a complete set of plans. Time to go buy a sheet of MDO. I've built 3 boxes so far, boat, suv and car. Not one has been a dud. No port noise, no blown subs, all easily blended with the rest of the system. I just put it out there as another option.

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I have been using the 12volt calculator to help out and these diamonds ions look like they would work 18.25"w x 16"h x 13.25"d gives me 1.3128 cuft with slot and woofer displacement. Only concern is that the slot length shorter by about 15 inches and the slot height would be taller by about 4 inches.

Did account for the volume that the actual wood making the port takes up?

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The JL Audio bass-reflex enclosure design is one prescription for a specific result. And that is deeper bass extension with more output than a sealed box with an even response. You can create a different alignment if you want a different result. I would recommend sticking with their plan.

The internal chamber displacement, port volume, port wall displacement, and external construction wall displacement should remain essentially the same (more on this point). The port length should stay the same. The port surface area should stay the same. If you change one of these then you must change all of these. It's not just the port volume. It's a ratio of a specific port surface area to a specific port length. And that port is tuned to a specific internal chamber displacement with a woofer of specific parameters.

I would not reduce the shorter slot port dimension. You could make the port half as wide and twice as tall and maintain the same surface area but you have changed the internal wall area and that will negatively impact efficiency. However, squaring up that rectangle is acceptable.

There are countless details that an on-line box program is not complex enough to consider. For example, changing the port from straight to an 'L' to a 'U' shape will alter the port wall displacement even though the effective port length remains the same. Terminating a port near an internal wall or corner requires modifications that impact the port length, port wall displacement and subsequently the external displacement. And so on. If you want precision then do the conversion math long hand, enlist help from JL Audio or your dealer.

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No I haven't got the materials yet. If it becomes too complicating I mighty just get someone to make it depending on how much it will cost. I just have the sub and yes I am putting it under the dash

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I have a 10W6 in an Earmark custom box under the dash of my American Skier. Plug and play and it freaking rocks. It blends in seamlessly with my six JL M770s in-boats.

Edited by jjackkrash
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I was convinced I needed a 12" until I actually heard this thing installed.

http://store.earmarkcaraudio.com/Xcart/product.php?productid=17155&cat=282&page=1

And this is why. http://www.teamrocs.com/technical/pages/boxes.htm NOT a dig. Box listed is a band pass and wanted to note it.

If you don't have a table saw or better yet a track saw, s*** pile of Bessey clamps, router and bits, this isn't a bad way to go.

Edited by robtr8
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No I haven't got the materials yet. If it becomes too complicating I mighty just get someone to make it depending on how much it will cost. I just have the sub and yes I am putting it under the dash

Just sayin: http://www.jlaudio.com/ho110-w6v3-car-audio-h-o-wedge-subwoofer-systems-93310

I would take a look at this and see if you can reinforce it to protect it from moisture, and work it into your existing kickplate thats down there. Gonna be hard to achieve this level of sound thru the DIY approach... here its already done.

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Just sayin: http://www.jlaudio.com/ho110-w6v3-car-audio-h-o-wedge-subwoofer-systems-93310

I would take a look at this and see if you can reinforce it to protect it from moisture, and work it into your existing kickplate thats down there. Gonna be hard to achieve this level of sound thru the DIY approach... here its already done.

That link just sends me to jls home page. What were you trying to show? I was planing on fibreglassing the box as well.

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I stopped into the Plano Earmark just yesterday to see Odin about an RV I'm getting. He showed me a Supra with a floor hump under the driver's helm and it was getting a 12W6v3 in a bass-reflex enclosure. That's a big box and no easy task in that boat while maintaining decent leg room. He was showing me a multi-step process where they treat the exterior and interior of the enclosure and get the sealer to penetrate deep into the MDF pores. Very impressive.

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Google AV Priority. He is a cusom eBay box builder. Has ported boxes for W6v3 that match JL specs. Just got mine for $135 and I promise it is the nicest box you will find. It is all CNC cut and it has a cone support I have never seen. So so nice. The carpet job was flawless seriously amazed at the box. You will not find nicer. I promise!!!!

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