Anyone ever make their own boat lift bunks from scratch?

[dtm8119]

I'm toying around with this idea and wanted to see if anyone has done this. My current setup:

I have the lake side bunk brackets moved in as far in as possible but due to the cutout at the rear of the lift, it still causes the bunks to cross over the chines of the boat.

I also don't like the fact that I really don't have any vertical adjustment options as well with the bunks that came with the lift.

I'd like to build some like what Indyxc has in this post..

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/32305-boat-lift-measurements-question/?p=464016

Any thoughts?

[jcon44]

Yup, after trying to find someone to come out and take a look at my lift then finally getting a quote for way too much. I decided to do it myself. That is, with the help of Ndawg12. we got all the parts and a hardware from Lowes. basically made them from angle iron and 2X12's. measured off my trailer to get the correct clearances. Ndawg may have pictures but I don't think i have anything. My lift was originally set up for a pontoon so I couldn't really reuse the current bunks. I am planning to lower the entire lift soon since the boat now slides off and on the bunks and i would prefer to float it more. If Nate doesn't have pics i can take some when I lower it and post them.

looking at the pic you provided, makes me think yours will be fairly easy compared to mine. the frame being exposed like it is alows you to use U bolts for all the mounts. Mine had parts where I could not use U bolts and had to drill the frame= more work.

Edited February 12, 2014 by jcon44

[Sixball]

IMHO you would be much better off keeping the bunks the same spread from front to rear. Match the stringers on your boat. It will put the load where the boat is strongest.

[Bill_AirJunky]

How are your trailer bunks configured? Seems like it would be good to duplicate that on your lift.

[REHinH20]

Was just wondering if stainless or aluminum would be better that angle iron? With aluminum you might need to add an extra brace, just for strength.

[Ndawg12]

Yup, after trying to find someone to come out and take a look at my lift then finally getting a quote for way too much. I decided to do it myself. That is, with the help of Ndawg12. we got all the parts and a hardware from Lowes. basically made them from angle iron and 2X12's. measured off my trailer to get the correct clearances. Ndawg may have pictures but I don't think i have anything. My lift was originally set up for a pontoon so I couldn't really reuse the current bunks. I am planning to lower the entire lift soon since the boat now slides off and on the bunks and i would prefer to float it more. If Nate doesn't have pics i can take some when I lower it and post them.

looking at the pic you provided, makes me think yours will be fairly easy compared to mine. the frame being exposed like it is alows you to use U bolts for all the mounts. Mine had parts where I could not use U bolts and had to drill the frame= more work.

May have to figure out a way to put another cross brace in there, we ended up using 4 supports per bunk on Jconn44's. Only 2 per side in these pics because we used the vRide as a guineau pig and decided we'd be more comfortable with 4 for the 23LSV.

[Ronnie]

I had my cradle made like my trailer except for the front roller. Then had it galvanized. I had to double up the bunks because the center fin hit the cradle.

That was back when we had water...

[NCVride]

May have to figure out a way to put another cross brace in there, we ended up using 4 supports per bunk on Jconn44's. Only 2 per side in these pics because we used the vRide as a guineau pig and decided we'd be more comfortable with 4 for the 23LSV.

Mine is set up exactly like this for my '06 VRide. Imagine that???? They were previously set up this way for my old Supra DD. This setup works. No need to configure like a boat trailer. I was VERY nervous the first time I lifted the VRide up on it, but if the clearance is there then there is no issue.

Man that boat looks good.......

Edited February 20, 2014 by NCVride

[Ndawg12]

Thanks man, the new owner is out your way more closer to the coast putting it in brackish water

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dtm8119]

Bringing up a thread I started earlier this year. I might actually make something like this

[Sixball]

Not a very large area to spreed the weight! Also the weight of the boat should be closer or under the stringers. This keeps the weight spread over the structurer, backbone of the boat. I think the stringers are like 22" or 24" apart. JMHO!

[dtm8119]

Not a very large area to spreed the weight! Also the weight of the boat should be closer or under the stringers. This keeps the weight spread over the structurer, backbone of the boat. I think the stringers are like 22" or 24" apart. JMHO!

I'd agree that the bunks should be moved in more on that example - I'd duplicate the width that the trailer is set at

[dtm8119]

Not a very large area to spreed the weight! Also the weight of the boat should be closer or under the stringers. This keeps the weight spread over the structurer, backbone of the boat. I think the stringers are like 22" or 24" apart. JMHO!

And with regards to the smaller area spreading out the weight, I could maybe double up on each bunk with two 2x10 or 2x12's?

I think a lot of the cradle style lifts have this sort of setup

http://boatliftworld.com/store/images/uploads/7k%20boat%20lift%20drawing.jpg

[flapjack]

And with regards to the smaller area spreading out the weight, I could maybe double up on each bunk with two 2x10 or 2x12's?

I think a lot of the cradle style lifts have this sort of setup

http://boatliftworld.com/store/images/uploads/7k%20boat%20lift%20drawing.jpg

I don't think you need to double up. Folks worried about weight forget how little force is on a boat when in the lift vs. on a trailer.

Max force on the lift = weight of the boat.

Max force on the trailer = many times the weight of the boat as the trailer bounces down the road.

[isellacuras]

But if you're building from scratch, why not do it right and set them up in the perfect spot? Shouldn't take any more work to put them in he right spot.

[daylorb]

I have installed one soup-to-nuts very similar to dtm8119's link. This one actually: http://www.boathoistusastore.com/store2browsecategory/2219/galvanized-cradles. Here's what I've learned after installing it and maintaining it for several years now...

* You wind up needing 2 x 12's on it ideally, and they should be resting on the cross-piece, clamped to the bracket, not elevated

* Ideally you match the width of the trailer bunks - which is designed specifically to fit the flat sections of your hull - and they go straight from front to back. We've tried angles, changing the width - this is the formula that works

* You can get guide brackets that force your boat right into place, much like on your trailer. I highly recommend them. Without the guide brackets - it can be very tricky to get your boat properly aligned on it... and this alignment is critical. We have done it this way for years but are putting guides on this spring as we are tired of the mis-alignment.

* If you do not get it properly aligned and sitting straight up and down each time, a lot of pressure is put on the boards - and they warp like mad and eventually will give way

* Even if you line it up properly, they warp from all the wet/dry action and tremendous load on them - I give mine 1-2 seasons max before replacing

* Unfortunately with this kind of cradle, if a board goes out, your boat can drop into the metal, worse yet your shaft can...

* We double-up boards now every time and that has helped tremendously - more room for error when landing your boat, less warping, last longer

If money was no object, I'd get a cradle that is cut-away in the center - there are common here in Austin - getting rid of the possibility of hull damage, although requiring deeper water. All-in-all is you pay attention to the lift/keep it maintained well, this type of lift works well and is relatively easy to deal with.

[ScottM46]

On 2/12/2014 at 2:14 PM, Ndawg12 said:

May have to figure out a way to put another cross brace in there, we ended up using 4 supports per bunk on Jconn44's. Only 2 per side in these pics because we used the vRide as a guineau pig and decided we'd be more comfortable with 4 for the 23LSV.

Found this post searching for ideas on the same issue I am having in Cornelius,NC - existing boat lift had bunks removed from prior owner. Have not been successful getting in contact with local boat lift dealer's to provide an estimate to re-install. I am assuming quote will be way over priced so leaning toward building something similar to this.. I know this is an old post, how has this setup worked out over the years since this was posted?

[mackie12]

I made my own, used two 2 x 12's vertical, cut at I believe a 30 Deg angle. Used S/S angle as brackets to the lift it self, spacing matched that of the trailer. Been four years now and all is good.

[jcon44]

45 minutes ago, ScottM46 said:

Found this post searching for ideas on the same issue I am having in Cornelius,NC - existing boat lift had bunks removed from prior owner. Have not been successful getting in contact with local boat lift dealer's to provide an estimate to re-install. I am assuming quote will be way over priced so leaning toward building something similar to this.. I know this is an old post, how has this setup worked out over the years since this was posted?

Blast from the past, This is my lift and its still going strong after 5 yrs.. Feel free to PM me with any questions. I added some new carpet but other than that no changes since Ndawg12 and I set this up.