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Remove that impeller the easy way


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OK. Maybe I'm just a slow learner, but while I was changing the impeller this weekend, I discovered a method that caused it to slip right out with no sweat.

I think this is about the 5th or 6th year I've changed the impellar myself. Usually it goes something like this:

1. Place vice grips or channel locks on impellar.

2. Pull like heck (or other curse word here).

3. channel locks break loose, and you slam your hand on the ski pylon or worse.

4. Spend the next 30 or 40 minutes, blood, sweat, tears, getting the impellar out.

5. Go kick the dog.

Here's the easy way:

1. Place vice grips on the impellar. Get it good and tight.

2. Slide a phillips screw driver between the jaws of the vice grips so now you have a pry point against the impellar housing.

3. Pry gently and the impellar will start to slide out. If you don't have enough leverage, place a tool or board or something below the vice grips that the screw driver can pry against.

4. Wha-la!

Hope that make sense.

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I find just to bump the engine (don't start it) use needle nose pliers and it pops right out.

While your trusty assistant is holding the pliers on the impeller? Crazy.gif

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I find just to bump the engine (don't start it) use needle nose pliers and it pops right out.

While your trusty assistant is holding the pliers on the impeller? Crazy.gif

That's the beauty of the DD I can do it all, no need for an assistant Biggrin.gif

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I find just to bump the engine (don't start it) use needle nose pliers and it pops right out.

While your trusty assistant is holding the pliers on the impeller? Crazy.gif

That's the beauty of the DD I can do it all, no need for an assistant Biggrin.gif

At the risk of wrecking the joke...... let's be clear folks. Safety first!

You bump the starter.... THEN..... you use the needle nose pliers. NOT at the same time.

I know this should be obvious...... but just in case.

(Putting a bit of binding slime inside the housing and around the vanes before hand also worked for me!)

Also a good idea to change the gasket as well.

post-114-1145320522.jpg

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squirt some wd-40 in the housing; pull the lanyard off and bump the motor over. then pull the impeller right out. I use an impeller puller since ours is a vdrive and in a tuff spot to access. it slides right out.

I find just to bump the engine (don't start it) use needle nose pliers and it pops right out.

While your trusty assistant is holding the pliers on the impeller? Crazy.gif

That's the beauty of the DD I can do it all, no need for an assistant Biggrin.gif

At the risk of wrecking the joke...... let's be clear folks. Safety first!

You bump the starter.... THEN..... you use the needle nose pliers. NOT at the same time.

I know this should be obvious...... but just in case.

(Putting a bit of binding slime inside the housing and around the vanes before hand also worked for me!)

Also a good idea to change the gasket as well.

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I second the WD-40. Spray some in, then bump the motor. Two pair of needle nose pliers and the thing slides out like, um, like, um something that has been lubed up with WD-40.

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If it doesn't move and is supposed to......WD 40. I third the motion. This is something my dealer recomended to me. The lube can't be to bad for the first start up too before that lake water hits the new rubber.

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Now where was this post last week? Saturday I tried my first v-drive impeller change. Spent the first hour and a half pulling, prying and cursing. All of that to get the impeller to move about 1/4 of an inch. Then I saw a can of WD-40, spayed a little in, bumped the motor over and it came right out.

The worst part was, that after all that, the new impeller didn't fit! Mad.gif

Turns out that the previous owners had the pump replaced with an aftermarked pump. Ah, the joys of owning a used boat.

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I squirt a little of my wifes hand lotion(while she is distracted)into the vanes and pop it out with two needle nose pliers and a good pull. My WD-40 bottle says try to keep it off rubber and plastic so I assumed it might degrade the rubber. Since I use these impellers as backups, I don't use the WD-40.

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I squirt a little of my wifes hand lotion(while she is distracted)into the vanes and pop it out with two needle nose pliers and a good pull. My WD-40 bottle says try to keep it off rubber and plastic so I assumed it might degrade the rubber. Since I use these impellers as backups, I don't use the WD-40.

Good point and likely true. WD-40 is a solvent at it's base.

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I squirt a little of my wifes hand lotion(while she is distracted)into the vanes and pop it out with two needle nose pliers and a good pull. My WD-40 bottle says try to keep it off rubber and plastic so I assumed it might degrade the rubber. Since I use these impellers as backups, I don't use the WD-40.

...my sentiments exactly!!!

Pat

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I squirt a little of my wifes hand lotion(while she is distracted)into the vanes and pop it out with two needle nose pliers and a good pull. My WD-40 bottle says try to keep it off rubber and plastic so I assumed it might degrade the rubber. Since I use these impellers as backups, I don't use the WD-40.

The can says that? Really? Cause some of the best uses are for plastic and rubber! I have used wd-40 for years on plastic motorcycle parts to make them look shiny with 0 - no - nada - none problems. I've used it on many ah rubber seal as well with no problems.

It's funny how you get the wd-40 haters and lovers in every crowd. Go ask the motorcycle guys about using it for chain lube if you want a real debate!

BTW, I'm still trying to figure this out, why exactly are you worried about getting WD-40 or any solvent on your old worn out used impeller - you know the one it helps remove?

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I just have no need to use wd-40 for the impeller removal.

However direct from the manufactures website:

What surfaces or materials are OK to use WD-40 on?

WD-40 can be used on just about everything. It is safe for metal, rubber, wood and plastic. WD-40 can be applied to painted metal surfaces without harming the paint. Polycarbonate and clear polystyrene plastic are among the few surfaces on which to avoid using a petroleum-based product like WD-40.

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However direct from the manufactures website:

It is safe for metal, rubber, wood and plastic.

Well, what do ya know...

Crazy.gif

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What surfaces or materials are OK to use WD-40 on?

WD-40 can be used on just about everything. It is safe for metal, rubber, wood and plastic. WD-40 can be applied to painted metal surfaces without harming the paint. Polycarbonate and clear polystyrene plastic are among the few surfaces on which to avoid using a petroleum-based product like WD-40.

Anything that you put in the pump housing will drain down into the hoses and eventually end up in your lake water. Cry.gif Why use petroleum products when you don't have to?
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SEMI-HIJACK - If you guys are going to the trouble to change out your old impeller, replace it with an impeller that will last at least 3 years - the Globe Mnf "Run Dry" impeller. Cost is almost the same. It's blue in color and available at many marine stores. Their model 100J fits my 2004 VLX and I was told by the Globe distributer that will fit on 99% of the Malibu boats - they all have the same raw water pump, according to him. Globe advertises it as a "Run Dry" impeller, and they claim you can run it for up to 15 minutes out of the water (I have not tried that, however). The rep I talked to said that this model would last a minimum of 3 years in recreational applications. I replaced my impeller (had the dealer do it after spending 2-3 hours trying myself) with the Globe and it works great. Biggrin.gif

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I bet a little 303 would work just fine.

Bingo!! That's what I use to remove the old (Along with a bump of the starter as mentioned above.) and install the new. Take the old one out, give it a few more squirts of 303, place in a ziplock sandwich bag, and drop in the toolbox as this year's spare.

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go to www.defender.com. They are are marine supply house that carries the Globe Impeller. The Globe Model 100J is the impeller that fits all recent Indmar engines. They did not show that model on their web site, so I called Globe and they verified that I had the correct number and they said Defender should have them. Called Defender back and (another rep) they still could not find it in their system. Defender rep is calling Globe, so they may have to order them from the manufacturer. But Model 100J works. Globe has some interesting products - here's the link to their site (no retail sales) http://www.globerubberworks.com

The Defender guy just called me back and verified that model does not show up on their web site, but they will correct that problem soon. So, for now, call Defenders 800 number and ask for Paul (ext 107) and tell them you need Model 100J. The price is $34.99.

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