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07 HH Draining Oil


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I guess I was spoiled by my 06 vride, I could snake the hose through the rear hole, cold or hot, it didn't matter, the monsoon would drain 5+ quarts out in less than an hour.

Guilty....I went exactly 64 hours on an oil change, trusting that the dealer had done what they promised and changed all fluids. I've found evidence that a few other things weren't done either as promised that I have photo proof of.....

So, my question is how do you drain all the oil out of an 07 HH motor? I ran the drain hose out the rear drain hole, jacked up the port side and the nose....?

I drained as much of the sludgey oil as I could, filled back to full along with a can of seafoam, ran the boat hard on the water for an hour, and again snaked the drain hose through the rear drain hole, and only drained out 3 quarts or so....do I need to invest in a vac system through the dipstick tube or ...?

TIA

Nate

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Can't answer your question BUT if your going to get an oil vac get one of these:

http://www.anchorexpress.com/jabsco-diy-oil-change-system-17850-1012?gclid=CM7M9YXtp7oCFdOe4AodfnkAHw

I have the Mighty vac but I used one of these with the Jabsco pump this past weekend and it made me want to smash my Mighty Vac.

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Nate,

The pump won't work any better than the method you're using. I fought this issue tooth & nail when I had mine, & what I finally ended up doing was this:

~ I stopped jacking up the trailer, in the end it only gets maybe another 1/2 quart or so.

~ I bought extra oil

~ After draining as much oil out as possible, I "chased" what was left with extra oil - pour a quart in & then let it drain, watching the color as it comes out. Repeat until you're satisfied with how it looks.

~ If the motor is warm, this process is easier for obvious reasons & "chasing" doesn't take as much extra oil.

This is easily one of the stupidest designs for an oil pan that I can think of. The low point isn't anywhere near where the drain is. Good luck.

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Nate,

The pump won't work any better than the method you're using. I fought this issue tooth & nail when I had mine, & what I finally ended up doing was this:

~ I stopped jacking up the trailer, in the end it only gets maybe another 1/2 quart or so.

~ I bought extra oil

~ After draining as much oil out as possible, I "chased" what was left with extra oil - pour a quart in & then let it drain, watching the color as it comes out. Repeat until you're satisfied with how it looks.

~ If the motor is warm, this process is easier for obvious reasons & "chasing" doesn't take as much extra oil.

This is easily one of the stupidest designs for an oil pan that I can think of. The low point isn't anywhere near where the drain is. Good luck.

Thanks WG, I guess I'll just have to find comfort knowing that I'm doing all I can. I'll top off the oil tonight and put a new filter on. I'm running 20w-50 and that definitely took care of the low pressure issue, at idle it was never below 18. Hopefully it will help with oil burn as well...

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I guess I was spoiled by my 06 vride, I could snake the hose through the rear hole, cold or hot, it didn't matter, the monsoon would drain 5+ quarts out in less than an hour.

Guilty....I went exactly 64 hours on an oil change, trusting that the dealer had done what they promised and changed all fluids. I've found evidence that a few other things weren't done either as promised that I have photo proof of.....

So, my question is how do you drain all the oil out of an 07 HH motor? I ran the drain hose out the rear drain hole, jacked up the port side and the nose....?

I drained as much of the sludgey oil as I could, filled back to full along with a can of seafoam, ran the boat hard on the water for an hour, and again snaked the drain hose through the rear drain hole, and only drained out 3 quarts or so....do I need to invest in a vac system through the dipstick tube or ...?

TIA

Nate

I bought a 10 buck orange plastic pump from auto zone. The threaded drain hose fits perfectly in the draw side of the pump. Sucks every drop out of my Bu's engine in just a few min vs an hour or more.

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WG, how high did you ever try to jack the nose and port side to get the oil to drain to the transom starboard side? I'm thinking about getting crazy with jacks and stands tonight, you might see a pic tomorrow of my boat flipped over or rolled back into the woods :lol:

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Most of the time I think that I just used 1 small hydraulic floor jack maxed out. But I think that I recall one time going farther by using a couple of jack stands once I got it up to a certain point, then moved the jack & raised it farther. It didn't make much of a difference in how much more oil I could get out, so I didn't do that again.

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@Nate: when you flush the oil, use warm oil rather than cold. Heat in hot water for a few minutes and then pour. Another option is to buy a heated dipstick and use that for warming the pan oil prior to draining. Length wouldn't be a big deal as you would only use for warming, should be able to get one via mail order since you just happen to live in the wrong Denver to know much about those!!

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Hey Nate,

We met at the SE WOW this year.

I get my 383 warmed completely, then get her on the trailer and home as quick as possible (bout 15 or 20 min). I roll the port trailer wheels onto two 2 x 6's and use the sloop of my driveway to the rear side. To drain oil, I use a drill pump to get the most oil I can out before it chills. Then I let it drip overnight.

I'm going to try WG's / Woodski's warm quart flush through next time as well.

I wish it was as easy as your old Monsoon.

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Thanks for the tips guys, I changed the filter again and filled her back up. I measured the "chase" oil and came up with 120 oz, so a little shy of 4 qts. I think I'll just plan on changing the oil at 40 hr intervals due to not being able to get it all out and the fact that it's sludgy.

I wish I'd taken a pic of the oil last night for comparison but it was obviously better looking than this first drain. The tray is on a 45 degree angle and the "oil" is not moving. Even at 64 hours (guilty) should it look like this? I had to scrape it down with a putty knife!!

post-8316-0-88679700-1382618864_thumb.jp

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Thanks for the tips guys, I changed the filter again and filled her back up. I measured the "chase" oil and came up with 120 oz, so a little shy of 4 qts. I think I'll just plan on changing the oil at 40 hr intervals due to not being able to get it all out and the fact that it's sludgy.

I wish I'd taken a pic of the oil last night for comparison but it was obviously better looking than this first drain. The tray is on a 45 degree angle and the "oil" is not moving. Even at 64 hours (guilty) should it look like this? I had to scrape it down with a putty knife!!

Oil, sludge and putty knife are not generally recognized as good words to use together in two simple paragraphs.

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I'm betting not. As you do your regular maintenance (knowing your nature regarding these things ;)), I'll go out on a limb & guess that it cleans up over time. But if you do have some oil burn going on, maybe that's contributing. Not sure on that one. Someone more edumacated than I am will need to answer that one.

Years ago I had an '66 Mustang that I started running Amsoil in shortly after I bought it. When we eventually did the teardown on the engine (it got tired), it looked really, really good inside, very clean, very little sludge. The builder credited running really good oil & also being really anal about regular maintenance. I do remember that the first, well many, oil changes that I did were pretty awful, but they cleaned up a bit over time. So I always went forward with the idea that it cleaned it out. That could be happening here (although we're talking about apples & oranges in terms of how much time is on each engine).

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@Nate: that is on the nasty side for what should come out of the crankcase. I would certainly recommend a cleansing process, whether you do a few flushes or go a little more dramatic with some engine cleaning solutions (example: pouring some diesel fuel in with oil and then draining after a short run or adding some ATF & doing the same). Doing some short drain intervals with some high detergent oils should also clean out the debris over time. The big risk in doing these techniques is some debris blocking a small passage, the usual result is a stuck lifter from debris.

@WG: any engine I have torn down (several racing engines of various types) running on Amsoil have been the cleanest of all. It is very good stuff but of course slightly harder to get and more pricey than many other options. The paraffin based oils from the eastern US tend to be the dirtiest.

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