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UofM_MXZ

Stereo ideas

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UofM_MXZ

My new VLX has the stereo option 1, which of course only has amplification for the tower speakers. What I am wanting to do is also amplify the interior speakers and adding a sub. Although I do electronics for a living, I am not much into car/marine audio and what I would need. I would also like to add a subwoofer. I would assume I would need a two and four channel amp and a sub. I am not sure how to find the speaker wires for the interior speakers or where they are run. I tried to search for this topic but didn't quite find what I was looking for. I wouldn't mind sticking with fosgate.....do the amps have to be marine grade since I will mount them in the battery compartment? Sorry for all the questions and I apprecaite any help.

Josh

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racer808

Your interior speakers are more then likely connected directly to the existing head unit. Depending on how much power / how loud you want it will determine how many amps you will want / need. I run a 5 channel with 300w to my sub, 100x4 to my interior & it is plenty loud. I have two other amps 400w to each of the two tower speakers & 200w to each of the other two midbass tower speakers. Again, plenty loud for me. I like the sub under the helm. The amps do not have to be marine grade but do get quality amps, fosgate is one of the brands.

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UofM_MXZ

yeah I like the idea of just one more amp rather than two seperate for power drawing reasons. I will most likely get a 5 channel then.

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MLA

yeah I like the idea of just one more amp rather than two seperate for power drawing reasons. I will most likely get a 5 channel then.

The number of amplifiers does not dictate current draw, the total output will. 4 amps delivering 1000W rms will have roughly the same battery current draw as 2 amps delivering the same 1000W rms.

Class-D amps will have a smaller footprint and be considerably more efficient than Class-A/B amps. There are plenty of solid 5 and 6 chnl amps that will power 4-6 in-boats and a nice 10 or 12 in sub with anywhere from 200-600 watts rms. I would recommend making the sub-woofer choice first, then the amp options that will best fit the power requirements, will fall in line. The factory in-boats will perform fine powered anywhere from 50W rms to 100W rms. This leaves you TONS of options here.

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skyskier

I used a JL XD 700/5 for a budget system I recently put together. It exceeded my expectations by a wide margin. Rockford Fosgate amps leave me cold every time. Back in the day RF amps delivered as promised, but not anymore. I have not listened to the factory RF speakers, but I have heard from someone who's ears I trust that they sound good enough that a quality amp can really make them come alive. If you just want to fill in the bottom end, a 10" Bazooka bass tube under the helm is a simple install and easy on the wallet. The 300 watt mono channel on the JL will run it just fine.

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happypappy

I used a JL XD 700/5 for a budget system I recently put together. It exceeded my expectations by a wide margin. Rockford Fosgate amps leave me cold every time. Back in the day RF amps delivered as promised, but not anymore. I have not listened to the factory RF speakers, but I have heard from someone who's ears I trust that they sound good enough that a quality amp can really make them come alive. If you just want to fill in the bottom end, a 10" Bazooka bass tube under the helm is a simple install and easy on the wallet. The 300 watt mono channel on the JL will run it just fine.

I have JL's in the boat , 900/5 for the cabin and 600/4 for the tower, and they are fantastic amps.. RF used to make quality stuff...not not so much.

Edited by happypappy

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UofM_MXZ

Yeah I am hoping to keep the 500W for the tower speakers until it goes bad one day just to not have the added cost. I like JL stuff as well. I was going to ask about ideas for a sub under the helm, as that is where I like them as well. My stock stereo doesn't have one there, but I was looking for something that will look somewhat stock but still deliver power. Definitely a 12" I think. Any pictures would be appreciated. Also, how do you run the wires to the helm from the amp/battery area?

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UofM_MXZ

I was also hoping to find a non MDF enclosure. I found one made of plastic that is supposed to fit under the helm, but not sure on the plastic idea.

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shawndoggy

I used a JL XD 700/5 for a budget system I recently put together. It exceeded my expectations by a wide margin. Rockford Fosgate amps leave me cold every time. Back in the day RF amps delivered as promised, but not anymore. I have not listened to the factory RF speakers, but I have heard from someone who's ears I trust that they sound good enough that a quality amp can really make them come alive. If you just want to fill in the bottom end, a 10" Bazooka bass tube under the helm is a simple install and easy on the wallet. The 300 watt mono channel on the JL will run it just fine.

I was going to suggest that amp too but skyskier beat me to it. I've got an xd 600/6 powering 8 cabins, and an xd 600/1 powering the sub in my boat. I've also got the xd 500/3 in my truck on a pair of comps and an arc audio 12 in a sealed box and it is very impressive and easily concealed. Wouldn't hesitate to recommend the JL XD series.

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David

My new VLX has the stereo option 1, which of course only has amplification for the tower speakers. What I am wanting to do is also amplify the interior speakers and adding a sub. Although I do electronics for a living, I am not much into car/marine audio and what I would need. I would also like to add a subwoofer. I would assume I would need a two and four channel amp and a sub. I am not sure how to find the speaker wires for the interior speakers or where they are run. I tried to search for this topic but didn't quite find what I was looking for. I wouldn't mind sticking with fosgate.....do the amps have to be marine grade since I will mount them in the battery compartment? Sorry for all the questions and I apprecaite any help.

Josh

Josh,

If you go with a 2-ohm (either 2-ohm SVC or 4-ohm DVCs) subwoofer you will get the most from the 5th channel of most 5-channel amplifiers.

A sealed enclosure is simple, smaller, and makes for an easier installation. A typical sealed 12" woofer will have external enclosure dimensions of just under 15"X15"X15" (or any shape equaling the same displacement). A typical sealed 10" woofer will have external enclosure dimensions of just over 12"X12"X12" (or any shape equaling the same displacement). Either can be concealed under the driver's console and behind a carpeted cover facade so that it is heard but not seen. Any enclosure will have to be slightly elevated off the sole to allow cables and wiring to freely pass underneath. Plus, you want a little isolation underneath the box to allow for drainage and evaporation. You definitely want to go with a true maranized sub enclosure. As for automotive or marine in subwoofer and electronics, many go with the automotive grade without issue, unless they are in a coastal or highly brackish area, then a marine amplifier is essential IMO. With some brands, like JL Audio for example, you will find a minimal added expense to go with a marine amplifier over the automotive option.

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Crustymuffin

I just did somthing very close to what your trying to do.

My new to me 07 VLX had the a Rockford 450.4 in it powering the 4 interior 6.5s and the 2 6.5 tower speakers. I did not like that at all so on a budget I just added...

SOUNDSTREAM TN5.950D 5 channel 950 watt class d amp

POLK MM1540DVC 15" dvc subwoofer (92db efficiency was a plus for me)

At 2ohms the 15"DVC sub gets 420watts (Sub Rated for 400 watts RMS)

The 4 interior 6.5's get 85watts at 4ohms (these are currently the Rockford 6.5 but changing them soon)

The Rockford now powers the Tower speakers in 2ch mode. (These are the stock MB Quart 6.5 but changing them soon)

I built the box under the helm. Its a sealed/recommended 1.5 Q-feet. I used 3/4 plywood and rubber undercoated the inside and fiberglass coated the outside as well as put 1/2" feet on the bottom to keep it from getting really damp.

Total cost was under $700

208.00 for the amp

145.00 for the sub

30.00 for the sub grill

100.00 for the box materials, wire, inline fuses.

I know some members have expressed issues with some of these companies, but the sys sounds dam good. Wile not a guru on all the current products I did competed in USAC car audio in the 90’s. These products seemed pretty true to the advertized specs.

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