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Help please! Winterizing 2010 LSV


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I am winterizing my 2010 LSV and took all the steps ie, ran it to temp, drained appropriate hoses and block, change the oil etc. I have a transom flush kit, so I attached a garden hose and place the hose in my bucket full of anti freeze. I let it run for about 45 seconds and realized it was not drawing.

What could be the issue? Do you need to close the intake valve from the bottom of the boat? I tried that when I tried a second time, with no further luck...... I am nervous about the impeller right now......

Any suggestions on how I get the anti freeze through the transon flush kit? Do you think I ruined the impeller? I kept watching the temp gauge and it did not get excessive.

Thanks for the help!

Reggie

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If the block is dry the temp sensor won't register properly. I would change your impeller... dry run for 45 seconds. I am not an expert on the transom flush kit but it needs water pressure for the spring loaded valve to open so the raw water intake is drawing from the flush connection not your pick-up on the bottom. You were essentially drawing air from the raw water pick-up on the bottom of the boat for the 45 seconds.

45 seconds running without cooling should not be an issue specifically as it relates to head gasket failure or head damage but (trying not to be alarmist here) if you want to be absolutely sure I would run your boat up to temperature for a while on your garden hose again and look for water in the oil and if you really want to be sure have a compression test done.

For myself... when I run the boat on a fake-a-lake on the garden hose or draw antifreeze in through the fake-a-lake... once the boat is started I head straight to the back to look for water out of both exhausts and/or see the antifreeze bucket level going down.... if not I have an airlock somewhere.

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Your impeller is prob fine.

Your freshwater hookup has a seacock shutoff valve... Ensure it's open.

Your regular under hull water intake has a seacock valve... Ensure it's closed. This makes it air tight to suck on the hose.

When you start it and if its not sucking AF... Goose the throttle up to 1000-1500rpms a couple times...

That's how you get the suction way up.

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Sorry just to be clear, do I have to take the hose off of the flush lit that goes to the transom and replace it with the garden hose.

I will also close the hull intake valve.... I have read the manual but I feel I am missing something...

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there's a little piece that you need to stick between the flush pro and the hose. I don't think it matters if you use the extension to the transom or just a garden hose.

Directions for Winterizing Your Boat (Out of Water):
1. After flushing with fresh water, open all drain cocks.
2. When all water is drained out of the engine, close drain cocks and tape shut the water
inlet on the bottom of the boat. ( or as Ryan suggests, just close the seacock... and remember to open it when you are done.)
3. Insert adapter into garden hose connection on the top of the valve.
4. Using a 5 gallon bucket, mix applicable amount of anti-freeze and water
(See anti-freeze directions for temperatures and appropriate amounts of anti-freeze and
water mixture).
5. Place end of hose into bucket of anti-freeze mixture.
6. Start engine, Do not exceed 1100 RPM. Allow engine to draw all anti-freeze solution into
engine. Immediately shut off engine to prevent loss of anti-freeze from exhaust.
7. Remove tape from intake and garden hose from valve.
Edited by shawndoggy
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You did cut a garden hose off into a 3-4ft section didn't you?

So you screw the male end of the hose into the transom flush fitting... And that hose section is only 3-4ft in length??

Don't try to suck AF thru 20-30ft of garden hose.... You gotta sacrifice one.

And the seacock for your transom flush should be right on the interior wall... Did you find it??

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yes, the hose is 3 feet at the most and I shut off the valve to the hull water feed and found the seacock for the flush kit.....

thanks again!

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