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nutoz

block drain on new monsoon 350

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nutoz

just started on winter maint. need some help on locating block drain. as I see it only way to drain the block is removing the sensors from either side of the block.

did I miss a drain plug ???

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shawndoggy

no that's it.

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racer808

no that's it.

What else do I need to do. I drain block, the two hoses off the manifolds, the large water hose after the thermo housing. Someone said something about doing the vdrive? I am not sure how to go about that?. Ballast bags I just take out & hang upside down, hoses blown out. I can't think of anything else?

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TURNITRED

What else do I need to do. I drain block, the two hoses off the manifolds, the large water hose after the thermo housing. Someone said something about doing the vdrive? I am not sure how to go about that?. Ballast bags I just take out & hang upside down, hoses blown out. I can't think of anything else?

There are two small Square headed plugs on the stern side of the Vdrive unit. I think they take like a half inch wrench to get out. But be careful as they can be pretty hard to get out. I took them out last fall on my 02 VLX because the service manual said to, but no water drained out. On thing you need to also make sure you drain is the "J" hose, which comes off the right side of the raw water pump and the top of the engine. It is a pretty large diameter hose. you should get a lot of water out of there. Maybe that's what you are talking about for the Thermo Housing. There is also a garden connector hose on there that you need to disconnect and drain out.

Other than that, I think that's all I had to do on my 02 VLX.

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augie09

I had some fun taking the block drain bolts out this weekend. They were seized up pretty good. Tried freeze off on one bolt (4 hours of re-applying) and the new wd40 bolt remover spray on the other for 4 hours. Neither worked using my 1" shorty wrench. Quick trip to hardware store I got a deep 1" socket with a 15" mini breaker bar. Worked perfect. Coated those puppies with anti-size before putting them back in once the water was out.

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Levi900RR

I gotta do this soon... was hoping for one last foliage cruise but that probably wont happen.

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racer808

There are two small Square headed plugs on the stern side of the Vdrive unit. I think they take like a half inch wrench to get out. But be careful as they can be pretty hard to get out. I took them out last fall on my 02 VLX because the service manual said to, but no water drained out. On thing you need to also make sure you drain is the "J" hose, which comes off the right side of the raw water pump and the top of the engine. It is a pretty large diameter hose. you should get a lot of water out of there. Maybe that's what you are talking about for the Thermo Housing. There is also a garden connector hose on there that you need to disconnect and drain out.

Yep that big J hose, couldn't picture in my mind where it came off from. The garden hose you talk about, isn't that the one plugged into the manifolds?

Other than that, I think that's all I had to do on my 02 VLX.

Edited by racer808

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nutoz

Thanks shawndoggy . Did not want to remove those. Hope what ever is left in the block will be ok. (Sounds lazy )

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TURNITRED

Yep that big J hose, couldn't picture in my mind where it came off from. The garden hose you talk about, isn't that the one plugged into the manifolds?

Other than that, I think that's all I had to do on my 02 VLX.

yes if I remember right that drains the manifolds, then you drain the block, then the j hose. I think that pretty much takes all the water out of the system.

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Levi900RR

Thanks shawndoggy . Did not want to remove those. Hope what ever is left in the block will be ok. (Sounds lazy )

Are you considering NOT removing the sensors to drain the block?

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Parrothead

This is a pretty good video I found on the web when I had to do my first winterization.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ezZJq3nn1Z0

I would not recommend leaving the sensors out for the winter. I did last winter and had enough corrosion in the cast block (rust) that I had to chase the the threads with a pipe tap to reinstall in spring. If you decide to leave them out at least put some vaseline or something on the threads to prevent the rust build up.

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nemalibu

Required Tools:

Shop Vacuum

HV LP Air Pump

___ Funnels, hoses and fittings

Drill Pump

Drill with charged batteries

Oil Filter Wrench

2 Trash Bags (to protect carpet during oil and ATF changes)

Awl (to pierce holes in oil filter for draining)

5/8” Wrench

9/16” wrench

Inspection mirror

Regular Screw driver

Nut driver for hose clamps (5/16”)

Required Materials:

EZ Store- EZ Start

~1 gal of gas in easy to pour can

5 Gal -50 Marine-RV Antifreeze

5 Quarts of Valvoline Premium Blue 15W40 Oil

NAPA Gold 1069 Oil Filter

2+ Quarts of ATF

1 Gallon Zip Lock Bag (for oil filter)

Liquid pipe sealant

Boat Removal from Water

Prior to driving the boat to the ramp for final removal from the water for the year

Try to have the gas tank around ½ full or a little less

Add required amount of EZ Store - EZ Start

Pour ~ 1 gallon of gas into fill tube to rinse remaining EZ Store – EZ Start into tank

Drive boat to ramp

While driving, run the ballast pumps a little to see that ballast tanks are drained

Make sure wedge is all the way up

Put boat onto trailer

Pull trailer part way up ramp

Start ballast pumps and wait until no more water is coming from drain ports

Stop ballast pumps and pull completely off ramp

Attach safety straps etc. and drive home

Parking and Pre-Winter Service

Park boat with stern at end of the driveway (downhill)

Place wheel chocks behind trailer wheels

Disconnect trailer from truck

Change oil and filter

Change Transmission fluid

Change V-drive fluid

Turn Battery Switch to OFF

Raise at bow end as far a practical (sends remaining water in ballast tanks and bilge, towards stern end of same)

Winterize Ballast

Ballast Winterizing

Notes: each tank has three connections, a vent, a fill, and a drain (see Figure 1 for details). Depending on hose routing, there can be areas where water can get trapped. It is important to remove all water from the system and then put some (roughly 0.5 gal) antifreeze into each tank to cover for any potential remaining water and any condensation.

The process below is followed for each ballast tank. Any place where the instruction says "push air" - this means use the HV LP Air Pump or shop vacuum as the air source.

Push air in through vent port while holding hand over drain port. (This will push water out of the fill line and fill pump.)

Close the fill pump through-hull valve.

With the drain port uncovered, push air into the vent port. (This will push water out of the drain line and drain pump.)

Open fill pump through-hull valve.

Pour antifreeze (~ ¼ gal) in through the vent port.

Pour antifreeze (~ ¼ gal) in through the drain port.

Winterizing of Engine, Drivetrain, and Heater

Remove Blige Drain Plug near V-drive

Disconnect B-Hose at the transmission cooler

Clean out Transmission Cooler screen and inspect with mirror

Push air into transmission cooler to push water out of hose leading to water-cooled prop shaft

Push B-hose down to allow it to drain

Heater

Disconnect heater hoses at the engine (keep track of which goes where)

Push air through heater core to clear water out

Use drill pump to put antifreeze into heater core (¼ – ½ gal)

Push air through heater core until clear of antifreeze

Keep heater hoses disconnected for now

Disconnect raw water hose where it first enters the V-drive from the scubber and push it down to allow it to drain

Disconnect raw water hose leading from the V-drive to the raw water pump AT the raw water pump

Push this hose down to allow it to drain – then

Push air into this hose to clear the V-drive of remaining water

Disconnect cross-over hose from exhaust manifolds and allow them to drain

Disconnect J-hose at the recirculating pump and allow to drain

Remove knock sensors and block drain plugs and allow block to drain

Insert stiff wire into each block drain hole to make sure all the water has drained out (this makes sure no scaling or other dirt is blocking the holes)

Flush engine with antifreeze

Pour antifreeze into the where the bottom of the J-hose attaches to the recirculating pump and observe pink coming out of the block drain plugs (maybe 2 gal) – may decide to pour some into the connection where the heater hose attaches to the intake manifold

Pour antifreeze into each of the hoses which attach to the upper connections on the exhaust manifolds and observe pink stuff coming out of the corresponding end of the disconnected exhaust crossover hose (maybe 1 gal per side)

Reinstall block plugs (after coating threads with Pipe Sealant) and reinstall knock sensors (Torque spec is 14-16 lb. ft.)

Reconnect all hoses

Vacuum out any remaining water/anti-freeze from the bilge

Replace Bilge Drain Plug near V-Drive

Note: Replace Raw Water Impeller in the Spring

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DatTexasBoy

Man I'm glad u live in Texas. Never Winterized!!!

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Bozboat

Good luck on not winterizing in Texas. I promise not to chuckle when your block freezes one year.

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Woodski

Always drain both sides of the block by removing both plugs / sensors.

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