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Toyota Tundra tow vehicle questions, would a supercharger help?


TallRedRider

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GCWR is the rating important when deciding on how much weight you can tow, not GVWR. The GCWR of the tundra is going to be north of 16,000 pounds.

Yes, but pulling a bumper pull trailer the tongue weight counts against you so why would you use a GCWR? Use the GVWR and stay under it. Truck weight and people in the truck plus gear gives you the GVW, now add the tongue weight and if you are over the GVWR you are done. I suspect most people will be over on the GVWR or the RGAW before you reach the GCWR.

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Look at the door sticker on the drivers side it tells you what your payload is. My Tundra is right around 1400 pounds of payload. You don't have to add the driver or gas to that number.

Wife, 2 kids, dog, wood and everything else you take camping in your truck 600 pounds. Tongue weight of boat 600 pounds? You got 200 pounds to play with for payload capacity.

It is extremely difficult to have a family of 4 with gear in the bed of the truck and pull a 8000 pound trailer and be under the payload capacity of a 1/2 ton truck. The one that might be able to do it is the Ford 150 when configured corrrectly

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Yes, but pulling a bumper pull trailer the tongue weight counts against you so why would you use a GCWR? Use the GVWR and stay under it. Truck weight and people in the truck plus gear gives you the GVW, now add the tongue weight and if you are over the GVWR you are done. I suspect most people will be over on the GVWR or the RGAW before you reach the GCWR.

Most bumper tow trailers will not put much more than 400-600 pounds on the hitch if they are set up correctly. If you were using a 5th wheel then I would be worried about overloading payload as you are stating since they put much more weight in the bed. I guess the improtant thing to take away is to understand all the limitations in order to be safe. I also agree that 1/2 ton trucks are pretty much at their limit around 8000 pounds. My F150 is rated to tow 11,200 but I woud never consider towing that much weight for any distance.

Edited by Tims
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The GVWR is the weight of the vehicle itself, not the trailer. That includes the vehicle, occupants and payload.

Good thought. Deleting the EGR might help it. But again, it would be like putting money into improving the performance of a ship that may be sinking. The AC stopped working mysteriously the other day..thank goodness it was only 95 degrees while I was moving out all of the furniture from a home. (sarcasm here..I guess I should be glad that it wasn't 107 degrees). Then the AC just started working again the next day.

If you have just two choices... throw $10K at the excursion or $10k at the tundra, bulletproofing the excursion and doing some performance enhancements will get you better bang for the buck because you are already starting from the 3/4 ton platform.

Of course neither truck will be worth $10k more after you spend that money, but I'd bet $ for $ you'd see more return (less loss) on bulletproofing the 6.0 than on a supercharger on the tundra. A supercharger would have me running, not walking, when I found out about it. Maybe that's kneejerk, but it will reduce your potential pool of buyers for sure. A bulletproofed 6.0 on the other hand, will increase the value of the truck, though again probably not $ for $. (maybe from $10k to $13-14K, depending on condition... the more beat it is the less value / less potential upside).

$10K is what, about 18 months of payments on a fancy new big boy diesel?

It sounds like the love is gone for the EX, and that may be the most telling point of all. When you start to resent the car, it's real hard to fall back in love.

But you probably need an SUV/kid hauler in your stable so a straight replacement of the EX also means you are stuck with the tundra for a while longer?

What about looking for an older used 3/4 ton pickup for the same $10K and having three vehicles in the stable instead of two?

10,000' passes... I LOL @ the Oklahoma guys telling you how well the tundra does in the mountains. (Is this tugging over 14?)

Ugh, decisions.

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10,000' passes... I LOL @ the Oklahoma guys telling you how well the tundra does in the mountains. (Is this tugging over 14?)

I LOL @ folks who jump in and dont read the thread posts and lack context to the conversation.

we were trying to figure out why his Tundra isnt performing the same as others at REGULAR elevations.

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I LOL @ folks who jump in and dont read the thread posts and lack context to the conversation.

we were trying to figure out why his Tundra isnt performing the same as others at REGULAR elevations.

Me too! I read the whole thread. What I think you misunderstand are what the "regular" elevations are like in southern Utah.

A "regular" 60 mile drive can end at 10,000'. It's not like you have to be intent on doing the pikes peak hillclimb. In fact just drive up interstate 15 about 45 minutes and you'll be higher than the highest point in OK. This is just plain old interstate driving, and not even "in the mountains" yet.

Most of the mountains in southern utah aren't jagged peaks either... it's possible to be above 10,000' for miles and miles to get to where you'd want to tow a toy hauler to. They are more like big plateaus than the alps.

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Shawn makes a good point about bulletproofing the 6.0, but if the rest of the rig is falling apart then you will have to weigh that in as well. Especially if you are getting tired of dumping money into it. The brand new diesel rigs tow light years better than the older generation diesel in your EX. You now get 800+ pound feet of torque, much better transmissions, more comfort, and they will make quick work of your 8000 pound trailer. A supercharged Tundra would not even come close and I agree with Shawn that it would have me running away if someone was selling one and I knew they were ringing it's guts out towing 8000 pounds.

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I've never even seen a boat launch as steep as 60 degrees. Sounds like your roads are intense!

OP, skip the supercharger. Your toy hauler needs a diesel.

Its the 200m access road to our property, not as intense as it sounds.

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pics! considering half dome is only a 45 degree pitch, I'm pretty certain my tow vehicle couldn't do sixty.

crap. misspoke I guess, just realize I meant to say 60% slope or 30.37 degrees. Lol. Must be the cold weather that has been thinking degrees

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Have you actually weighed the trailer when it was empty or is that what the sticker says?

What do you carry in the trailer when you take it?

I have not weighed it. It sure feels heavier than it says it is. I attributed that mostly to excess wind resistance. It is 7 feet tall inside, pretty nice thing to have a camper where I can stand up straight. I try not to fill the water tank until I get close to where I am going since it has a 150 gallon water tank (1200 pounds), but the time the Diesel struggled with it, we had a small 4 wheeler, Yamaha Rhino and 2 dirt bikes in there.

How many miles are on the excursion?

The Excursion has 160K on it. I think the engine is still pretty sound, but it needs new CV joints, and the air conditioning going out is not something I am looking forward to on our yearly trip to California, when I am crossing Death Valley.

Good thoughts, ShawnDoggy about resale of a supercharged Tundra. I would run from one myself. When looking at alternatives, I found a late model F250 that was all chipped with a hitch in the bed...wondering what in the crap the guy was pulling that made him think he needed to void the warranty on a brand new engine?

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I would weigh it if it was me. Load it up like your going camping and see what it weighs. I would bet your over 9k and with the trailer being a brick for pulling is why your having issues.

The x should pull that thing easy.

Stay away from chipped 6.0's. Then again I had one that was the biggest piece of junk I've ever owned.

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My Tundra does have the TRD package. The listed payload is 1500 pounds.

Some day when I get bored, I am for sure going to weigh that trailer.

Thanks everybody, it looks like I should be shopping for a new truck...or just pour some more money into the Titanic (excursion).

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I would weigh it if it was me. Load it up like your going camping and see what it weighs. I would bet your over 9k and with the trailer being a brick for pulling is why your having issues.

The x should pull that thing easy.

Stay away from chipped 6.0's. Then again I had one that was the biggest piece of junk I've ever owned.

If it is running anything but a SCT device for tuning than run. A 6.0L is fine if you remove the EGR junk as that is the biggest single problem with issues owners experience. A tune wakes the truck up and makes towing much easier as you can remove that pedal dead spot and clean up the trans shifts. I would have no issues buying a 6.0L as my dads has been fine, but you need to know what is causing issues and fix it.

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IMHO if you need to add additional HP/torque AND braking power to a TOW vehicle.... You might want to rethink the vehicle. AND pay up your life insurance premiums...

The big 3 make HD vehicles for a reason. That reason being not the average tow or trip to the dumps, but with the braking power for those 10 times per year you make an emergency stop possibly on a windy mountain road...

YMMV...

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If it is running anything but a SCT device for tuning than run. A 6.0L is fine if you remove the EGR junk as that is the biggest single problem with issues owners experience. A tune wakes the truck up and makes towing much easier as you can remove that pedal dead spot and clean up the trans shifts. I would have no issues buying a 6.0L as my dads has been fine, but you need to know what is causing issues and fix it.

Here is what is wrong with Ford's 6.0. and how to fix it. Have 2 ski buds who have had the 6.0..they went different routes to fix the problem.

http://powerstrokelemon.wordpress.com/

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APR headstuds and new gaskets, EGR removal/upgrade, oil cooler upgrade, STC tuner = bulletproof 6.0. Cost is around $7K.

I wouldn't even go the external oil cooler route unless when you datalog you are seeing more than a consistent 15-20*F spread between engine coolant temp and oil temp. The stock oil cooler is under the intake manifold and a big job. Plus its expensive to swap.

Instead if your temps are decent between ECT and EOT get a good amsoil filtered bypass kit for the oil system. It will save injectors and also keep crap from getting into the oil cooler and plugging it up. Same goes for a coolant bypass filter.

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