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nemalibu

Winterizing Proceedure (looking for comments)

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nemalibu

This is for my 2011 VTX with a Monsoon 350

Required Tools:

Shop Vacuum

HV LP Air Pump

___ Funnels, hoses and fittings (need to make a detailed list here)

Drill Pump

Drill with charged batteries

Oil Filter Wrench

2 Trash Bags (to protect carpet during oil and ATF changes)

Awl (to pierce holes in oil filter for draining)

5/8 Wrench

9/16 wrench

Inspection mirror

Regular Screw driver

Nut driver for hose clamps (5/16)

Required Materials:

EZ Store- EZ Start

~1 gal of gas in easy to pour can

5 Gal -50 Marine-RV Antifreeze

5 Quarts of Valvoline Premium Blue 15W40 Oil

NAPA Gold 1069 Oil Filter

2+ Quarts of ATF

1 Gallon Zip Lock Bag (for oil filter)

Liquid pipe sealant

Boat Removal from Water

Prior to driving the boat to the ramp for final removal from the water for the year

Try to have the gas tank around ½ full or a little less

Add required amount of EZ Store - EZ Start

Pour ~ 1 gallon of gas into fill tube to rinse remaining EZ Store EZ Start into tank

Drive boat to ramp

While driving, run the ballast pumps a little to see that ballast tanks are drained

Make sure wedge is all the way up

Put boat onto trailer

Pull trailer part way up ramp

Start ballast pumps and wait until no more water is coming from drain ports

Stop ballast pumps and pull completely off ramp

Attach safety straps etc. and drive home

Parking and Pre-Winter Service

Park boat with stern at end of the driveway (downhill)

Place wheel chocks behind trailer wheels

Disconnect trailer from truck

Change oil and filter

Change Transmission fluid

Change V-drive fluid

Turn Battery Switch to OFF

Raise at bow end as far a practical (sends remaining water in ballast tanks and bilge, towards stern end of same)

Winterize Ballast

Ballast Winterizing

Notes: each tank has three connections, a vent, a fill, and a drain (see Figure 1 for details). Depending on hose routing, there can be areas where water can get trapped. It is important to remove all water from the system and then put some (roughly 0.5 gal) antifreeze into each tank to cover for any potential remaining water and any condensation.

The process below is followed for each ballast tank. Any place where the instruction says "push air" - this means use the HV LP Air Pump or shop vacuum as the air source.

Push air in through vent port while holding hand over drain port. (This will push water out of the fill line and fill pump.)

Close the fill pump through-hull valve.

With the drain port uncovered, push air into the vent port. (This will push water out of the drain line and drain pump.)

Open fill pump through-hull valve.

Pour antifreeze (~ ¼ gal) in through the vent port.

Pour antifreeze (~ ¼ gal) in through the drain port.

Figure 1: Details of Through-Hull Outlet Ports

Winterizing of Engine, Drivetrain, and Heater

Remove Blige Drain Plug near V-drive

Disconnect B-Hose at the transmission cooler

Clean out Transmission Cooler screen and inspect with mirror

Push air into transmission cooler to push water out of hose leading to water-cooled prop shaft

Push B-hose down to allow it to drain

Heater

Disconnect heater hoses at the engine (keep track of which goes where)

Push air through heater core to clear water out

Use drill pump to put antifreeze into heater core (¼ ½ gal)

Push air through heater core until clear of antifreeze

Keep heater hoses disconnected for now

Disconnect raw water hose where it first enters the V-drive from the scrubber and push it down to allow it to drain

Disconnect raw water hose leading from the V-drive to the raw water pump AT the raw water pump

Push this hose down to allow it to drain then

Push air into this hose to clear the V-drive of remaining water

Disconnect cross-over hose from exhaust manifolds and allow them to drain

Disconnect J-hose at the recirculating pump and allow to drain

Remove knock sensors and block drain plugs and allow block to drain

Insert stiff wire into each block drain hole to make sure all the water has drained out (this makes sure no scaling or other dirt is blocking the holes)

Flush engine with antifreeze

Pour antifreeze into the where the bottom of the J-hose attaches to the recirculating pump and observe pink coming out of the block drain plugs (maybe 2 gal) may decide to pour some into the connection where the heater hose attaches to the intake manifold

Pour antifreeze into each of the hoses which attach to the upper connections on the exhaust manifolds and observe pink stuff coming out of the corresponding end of the disconnected exhaust crossover hose (maybe 1 gal per side)

Reinstall block plugs (after coating threads with Pipe Sealant) and reinstall knock sensors (Torque spec is 14-16 lb. ft.)

Reconnect all hoses

Vacuum out any remaining water/anti-freeze from the bilge

Replace Bilge Drain Plug near V-Drive

Note: Replace Raw Water Impeller in the Spring

Prior to Placement in Garage

Empty boat of most equipment and items

Clean and dry boat interior and exterior

Remove wakeboard racks (wont fit through garage opening otherwise)

Remove bimini and place in boat (wont fit through garage opening otherwise, will put it back on for winter storage in garage)

Remove swim platform

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nemalibu

Surprised no comments.

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Oberon

You are very thorough. I think running antifreeze through your engine is pointless but there are many here who disagree with me. Is this your first winterization? You won't have a problem.

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nemalibu

It will be my first for this boat. Thanks for the feedback.

Where are you located?

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Cory

I don't run anti-freeze either, but do use compressed air in the various engine lines/holes after draining. I also loosen the screws on the impeller housing to allow water trapped in there to drain out. Another thing you mention, which I am unfamiliar with is "Disconnect B-Hose at the transmission cooler". Perhaps I am doing it, but don't appreciate what the line is... Where is this line? Do you have a picture of it?

When I purchased my first boat, the dealer and I went through the engine using a white sharpe and marked every line/point I needed to drain to winterize my boat. I drained those points every winter, but there is one line that I don't really know what it does.

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shawndoggy

you are changing your oil and tranny fluid with your boat on an incline? I'd try to do it on as flat of a surface as possible. The oil drain is at the back of the motor (towards the bow in a vdrive) so if you have the stern down, the oil might be above the bottom of the pan depending on the grade.

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nemalibu

I don't run anti-freeze either, but do use compressed air in the various engine lines/holes after draining. I also loosen the screws on the impeller housing to allow water trapped in there to drain out. Another thing you mention, which I am unfamiliar with is "Disconnect B-Hose at the transmission cooler". Perhaps I am doing it, but don't appreciate what the line is... Where is this line? Do you have a picture of it?

When I purchased my first boat, the dealer and I went through the engine using a white sharpe and marked every line/point I needed to drain to winterize my boat. I drained those points every winter, but there is one line that I don't really know what it does.

The B hose is the one that runs fom the raw water pump to the transmission cooler.

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nemalibu

you are changing your oil and tranny fluid with your boat on an incline? I'd try to do it on as flat of a surface as possible. The oil drain is at the back of the motor (towards the bow in a vdrive) so if you have the stern down, the oil might be above the bottom of the pan depending on the grade.

Thanks. The instructions I posted confused that point. I also do the oil and fluid on mostly level ground and then plan to tip back for the winterizing.

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shawndoggy

Also don't worry about mixing up the heater hoses. The core doesn't care which direction the water is running through it.

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Cory

I disconnect about a 2" line that connects to the raw water in-take (down below the impeller housing if memory serves me) and a smaller 3/4" line at the top of the engine that runs to the heater core. I blow compressed air in the 3/4" line and water comes out the 2" line that I disconnected from the raw water in-take. Is this 2" line the so called "B line" that runs to the transmission cooler?

Like I said, Paul @ Bake's basically marked up my engine on my '08 Vride with an idiot proof guide for me. Using a white sharpe, he numbered 5 hose locations and the two engine pugs to disconnect and blow air in. I'm assuming my monsoon will be the same as my LCR, except I now have a shower to winterize and I can't fog the engine anymore since I have catalytic converters now. I'm assuming I just turn the shower on and let it push all the water out, right?

Edited by Cory

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nemalibu

I disconnect about a 2" line that connects to the raw water in-take (down below the impeller housing if memory serves me) and a smaller 3/4" line at the top of the engine that runs to the heater core. I blow compressed air in the 3/4" line and water comes out the 2" line that I disconnected from the raw water in-take. Is this 2" line the so called "B line" that runs to the transmission cooler?

Like I said, Paul @ Bake's basically marked up my engine on my '08 Vride with an idiot proof guide for me. Using a white sharpe, he numbered 5 hose locations and the two engine pugs to disconnect and blow air in. I'm assuming my monsoon will be the same as my LCR, except I now have a shower to winterize and I can't fog the engine anymore since I have catalytic converters now. I'm assuming I just turn the shower on and let it push all the water out, right?

I don't think so. The B hose runs from the raw water pump to the transmission cooler. It is pretty short (maybe 2-3 ft long) and around 1-1.25" ID.

Regarding the shower, I have never had one so I'm not sure where it connects up or what to do with it. I bet there are plenty of people on this site who do.

Regarding the simple purging process you describe, I have not heard of an approach where you don't take out the block drain plugs or directly drain the exhaust manafolds. Sounds interesting but unclear to me how that would get everything.

Edited by nemalibu

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TrickyNicky

For fellow readers the first post sounds like Sooooo much work and I was thinking he must be doing a lot more precautionary stuff than I do. But if you actually read it it's all disconnect/reconnect hose etc. The winterization part for me last year as a first timer took 2-3 hrs. Cleaning the boat etc is a different story.

FTR, My procedure is as follows:

run ballast pumps dry

oil change

transmission fluid change

impellar change

drain hoses

drain block

run antifreeze

fog engine

moth balls

I don't think I did a v-drive fluid change, I will look into that this year. Maybe I did :dontknow:

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shawndoggy

I do the impeller in the spring. why leave a perfectly good new impeller in the raw water pump unused?

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TrickyNicky

I do the impeller in the spring. why leave a perfectly good new impeller in the raw water pump unused?

So when the weather warms up I just have to back the trailer down the ramp and be gone! I literally hook up the boat, tow it the 100 yards to the ramp, start engine, watch fogging oil smoke out, and We're back on the water!!!

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shawndoggy

Oh I don't remove my impeller, I just don't put a new one in. Our ramp is an hour away minimum, so I always make sure the boat runs on the hose before a visit to the lake. Some people call that "summerizing," I just call it insurance against being the yahoo at the ramp whose boat won't fire. So that's when I do the impeller.... plus I love tinkering on the boat and it gives me an excuse to get some dirt under my fingernails in the spring.

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TrickyNicky

I hear you, one thing this site has taught me is to appreciate that we all have different ways of doing things based on our circumstances. I have learned so much about trailering, ramp etiquette, and other maintenance/ cleaning issues that are irrelevant to me keeping a boat on a lift and towing 100 miles a year MAX and using a private ramp. But when the time comes, it's good to be prepared. I love having the boat always 100 yds from the water, but I would also love to have the boat at home for weeknight tinkering/cleaning or in a heated garage for winter projects.

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Cory

I don't think so. The B hose runs from the raw water pump to the transmission cooler. It is pretty short (maybe 2-3 ft long) and around 1-1.25" ID.

Regarding the shower, I have never had one so I'm not sure where it connects up or what to do with it. I bet there are plenty of people on this site who do.

Regarding the simple purging process you describe, I have not heard of an approach where you don't take out the block drain plugs or directly drain the exhaust manafolds. Sounds interesting but unclear to me how that would get everything.

Hmmm... The eight points I drained on my LCR include:

1) left engine plug

2) right engine plug

3) J hose on stern, port side of engine (just the bottom connection point)

4) disconnect port side line running into V-drive

5) manifold lines that have the hose thread connections

6) a hose that connects below the impeller housing (my memory is foggy on this one)

7) a hose that connects on top of my engine and runs to the heater (I blow air in this hose and water comes out the hose in step 6 above)

8) I loosen the screws on the impeller housing (I replace the impeller & housing gasket every other spring)

I fogged that engine as well, and of course, drained all the ballast pumps. It worked for 5 years without a problem. I kept that boat in a detached garage that is not insulated. At least two of those winters we had 20 degree temps that lasted a week.

I'm guessing I must be draining the transmission cooler with step 6, but I honestly don't know.

Edited by Cory

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Cory

Okay, I think I have figured it out by watching a video on-line. People keep talking about the transmission cooler. I believe this is the hose in my setp 4 that runs to the bottom of the V-drive. The hose in my step 6, is the starboard hose that runs into the bottom of the impeller housing and I believe is the output on the raw water pump (aka impeller). Does this make sense?

I still don't know where this B-hose mentioned by the OP is located???

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nemalibu

I think it is the hose in your step 6.

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Sixball

Oh I don't remove my impeller, I just don't put a new one in. Our ramp is an hour away minimum, so I always make sure the boat runs on the hose before a visit to the lake. Some people call that "summerizing," I just call it insurance against being the yahoo at the ramp whose boat won't fire. So that's when I do the impeller.... plus I love tinkering on the boat and it gives me an excuse to get some dirt under my fingernails in the spring.

I do much the same. I start in drive check for leaks watch the boat heat and go through a cycle of the thermostat open on close. I don't spend any time at the ramp. I also once launched and idling away and letting engine come up to temp I have my dog house open and watch for any problems. Then celebrate the start to another season!

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TrickyNicky

When do you fog the engine, or how? If I fog the engine when trailering than I have to run the boat again when I run anti-freeze through it. And if I fog it after antifreeze than I have to run the boat dry.

Any help?

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shawndoggy

When do you fog the engine, or how? If I fog the engine when trailering than I have to run the boat again when I run anti-freeze through it. And if I fog it after antifreeze than I have to run the boat dry.

Any help?

Fog then shut down. If you must do antifreeze, just pour it in the top of the motor.

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TrickyNicky

So no real way to get it through all the hoses? I know it's probably overkill based on what I've read but it gives me peace of mind.

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teamerickson

Does everyone spray the engine with some kind of protectant? I store mine in a garage.

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shawndoggy

Does everyone spray the engine with some kind of protectant? I store mine in a garage.

WD40, as is recommended in my owners manual. Plus it's pretty redneck, which gives me a sense of shadetree mechanic satisfaction.

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