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Afun

My Boatmate Trailer....Concerns About My Bunks

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302Zapper

I think you should walk into Boatmate with your shirt off and your Cool Sperry Top Siders, you know, those canvas ones you got, and a couple bags of milk. They'll probably just give you a whole new trailer!!!

Here's my suggestion to yah

Back the trailer into the water all the way so that all the bunks are wet. Then pull the trailer forward to the desired depth and load the boat. This will provide lubrication to the carpet and bunks and make them slippery and should help with rug burn. Each boat launch is different, the steep ones can be a b****.

Good Luck

PS

Love the bracelet and fresh manicure

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85 Barefoot

DEf not getting deep enough to be getting the burn at the DEEPEST point of the bunks. Replace that carpet ASAP as the burned carpet is far more likely to scratch. Get a pair of pliers and pull the staples. Cut new carpet to fit (use same width as what you're taking off) and staple it in place from the bottom.

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Brett B

For the most part...your post has many assumptions. Yes, I am learning many things quite quickly. I am putting that trailer in very deep when launching. Any deeper I will sink my exhaust into the water. I do a pretty good job lining up the boat when retrieving.

You post just sucks.

Your attitude here is terrible. Murphy gave you some good and sound advice, which was exactly right, and you tell him his post sucks? Good grief.

You are loading too fast and/or with the trailer too shallow, causing you to burn your carpet. I know because I have made the same mistakes. Why are you worried about the truck exhaust pipe dipping into the water? That is normal. Do you think it's going to make your truck stop running? If that were the case, how do you think your boat does it since its exhaust exits below the water line?

If you can't get your jack to rotate all the way then your ball height is too low, or your jack needs adjusted, or your truck is squatting too much. It's likely a bit of all 3. Change the drop height of your hitch, and get some air bags so your truck doesn't sag so much in the rear. Air bags are about $100 and they are easy to install.

Lastly, if you are towing with an FJ Cruiser, you are over the legal 5000lb towing rating. That's probably why it's squatting so much and causing jack problems. My 2012 VLX on the trailer weighs 6000lbs when lake ready, and I don't have the added weight of surf gate. You should probably weigh your rig when lake ready to see just how heavy you really are.

For what it's worth my Boatmate has been one of the best trailers I have owned, and when comparing to other friends boat trailers (such as MC and Eagle trailers) I am very happy that mine came with a Boatmate.

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Afun

Your attitude here is terrible. Murphy gave you some good and sound advice, which was exactly right, and you tell him his post sucks? Good grief.

You are loading too fast and/or with the trailer too shallow, causing you to burn your carpet. I know because I have made the same mistakes. Why are you worried about the truck exhaust pipe dipping into the water? That is normal. Do you think it's going to make your truck stop running? If that were the case, how do you think your boat does it since its exhaust exits below the water line?

If you can't get your jack to rotate all the way then your ball height is too low, or your jack needs adjusted, or your truck is squatting too much. It's likely a bit of all 3. Change the drop height of your hitch, and get some air bags so your truck doesn't sag so much in the rear. Air bags are about $100 and they are easy to install.

Lastly, if you are towing with an FJ Cruiser, you are over the legal 5000lb towing rating. That's probably why it's squatting so much and causing jack problems. My 2012 VLX on the trailer weighs 6000lbs when lake ready, and I don't have the added weight of surf gate. You should probably weigh your rig when lake ready to see just how heavy you really are.

For what it's worth my Boatmate has been one of the best trailers I have owned, and when comparing to other friends boat trailers (such as MC and Eagle trailers) I am very happy that mine came with a Boatmate.

Thank You Brett B. That's the best post ever. I look forward to more from you.

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BlastRlxi

So it sounds like the bunks may be looking like this because its a tight fit. The headquarters of Boatmate is about a 30 minute drive for me. I imagine that you must bring it without the boat on it. Don't know if they remove the boat for you. I do not have a slip.

If you find you need to take the trailer in without the boat, you're welcome to tie the boat up at our dock if you need to. We are on Norris which might be a little out of the way for you but the offer's there if you're in a bind.

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Afun

If you find you need to take the trailer in without the boat, you're welcome to tie the boat up at our dock if you need to. We are on Norris which might be a little out of the way for you but the offer's there if you're in a bind.

Thank you. Very generous.

Edited by Afun

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Afun

Thank You Brett B. That's the best post ever. I look forward to more from you.

FYI,

I am able to rotate the jack fully now. Uneven surface in my driveway. FJ looks good, no need for airbags.

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85 Barefoot

A, when your boat is hooked up, whats the angle of the trailer? It sounds as if its riding nose down...true?

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nyryan2001

we need a pic of his rig, requested numerous times.

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jk13

Like Bobby Light said something to watch for if you are experimenting with loading deeper is the bow roller. If I float all the way on the trailer--or even up to a foot from the roller-- the bow of my boat will go under the front roller. Previous owner left a few scars on my bow from doing that.

Now my boat is older and shallower than yours but it needs the hull to contact the bunks and push the nose up and over the front roller. 1" of trailer fenders visible is the general rule on my setup and I have to crank the boat up probably 2 feet. Multiple people have already said that they need the trailer fenders fully sunk on their newer boats.

Just take your time and be mindful of all the contact points. Best way to figure out what works well on your setup is trial and (controlled) error.

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Afun

This is all I got. The second pic is with the boat hooked on the FJ. Bottom line...I do not feel comfortable going any deeper with the car. I mean all the bunks are buried in the water. I should have my own slip next season, but I have so many lakes to go to it's kind of a shame. Well, I could still trailer from time to time.

9545338239_e9e9b84e78_b.jpg

9545338403_362c0a5e98_b.jpg

image

Edited by Afun

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85 Barefoot

You are def bow low, not good. As for backing in the FJ, you are NOT hurting anything. I launch my boat on my beach (have done with numerous vehicles over the years) and it requires you go at least two feet deep...I'm talking front wheels. Water in cab if you open the doors. My owners manual specically states water fjording fine up to 30 inches. Getting your exhaust wet is no big deal at all. Bunks being wet is a start, not necessarily all thats needed. Given the "evidence" of a carpet friction burn, IMO you def need to get that tongue up and back deeper.

Edited by 85 Barefoot

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Afun
You are def bow low, not good. As for backing in the FJ, you are NOT hurting anything. I launch my boat on my beach (have done with numerous vehicles over the years) and it requires you go at least two feet deep...I'm talking front wheels. Water in cab if you open the doors. My owners manual specically states water fjording fine up to 30 inches. Getting your exhaust wet is no big deal at all.[/quote

Not that low...Ochocinco??? Yeah, the FJ could handle lots of water. All the ramps in East TN are so high because of all the rain. It makes it kind of hard not to bury the actual tow vehicle.

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85 Barefoot

not what that low the tongue or how deep u r going?

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Afun

The tongue

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85 Barefoot

I mean its not the worst I've seen but that trailer could definitely use a higher ball from what I'm seeing in that picture. A couple inches up front translates into a couple inches in the rear which could drastcially improve the friction between the bow and the rear of the bunks.

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Afun

I mean its not the worst I've seen but that trailer could definitely use a higher ball from what I'm seeing in that picture. A couple inches up front translates into a couple inches in the rear which could drastcially improve the friction between the bow and the rear of the bunks.

I guess turning the hitch upside down or getting one that has zero drop. Don't know if the sell one. I will check it out. Still, not real happy with the trailer bunks looking like that.

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TrickyNicky

You do know this was part of the design of the FJ:

62961d1349214528-fj-safe-water-depth-art

Back that truck in and save the hull of your boat. If your concerned about the boat taking the truck with it than it's time you start thinking of a better tow vehicle. But water depth wise, on a regular sloped ramp I would bet you could have that truck in a foot of water at the front without worrying about anything. EXhaust isn't your concern, intake is. Your intake is tucked up under the passenger front wheel well.

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Afun

You do know this was part of the design of the FJ:

62961d1349214528-fj-safe-water-depth-art

Back that truck in and save the hull of your boat. If your concerned about the boat taking the truck with it than it's time you start thinking of a better tow vehicle. But water depth wise, on a regular sloped ramp I would bet you could have that truck in a foot of water at the front without worrying about anything. EXhaust isn't your concern, intake is. Your intake is tucked up under the passenger front wheel well.

Cool Pic! I am familiar with the vehicles potential. I am going to file a claim with Boatmate. Maybe the bunks are a little tight. They are a good company and local to where I live.

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85 Barefoot

A fun, your bunks are not "tight". The boat has been forcefully loaded at an insufficient depth. BM will say the same thing. The ONLY way for that carpet to burn is friction. Given this is at the END of the bunks, there is no question this is user error as even if the bunks were "tight", if you were deep enough, that's not where you would get carpet wear. IF you were getting that wear up front, that would be differnet, but given it sin the back, the rear of the trailer is simply too high when you're loading.

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85 Barefoot

I guess turning the hitch upside down or getting one that has zero drop. Don't know if the sell one. I will check it out. Still, not real happy with the trailer bunks looking like that.

You shouldn't be, but that's not boatmates fault.

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Madmanacrossthewater

I always dunked the trailer then pulled out to where it needed to be. Never had issues. BM makes a good product and stands behind it as well.

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85 Barefoot

This is not a dunking issue. This is an angle issue. The rear bunks should NEVER have a burn mark. In fact, they shouldn't even touch the bottom of the boat until its pulled out of the water. Assuming proper loading depth, if anywhere is going to get burned it is not the rear, it will be near the front when the bunk actually has to start supporting the weight of the bow and directing it upward.

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nyryan2001

I guess turning the hitch upside down or getting one that has zero drop. Don't know if the sell one. I will check it out. Still, not real happy with the trailer bunks looking like that.

Zero Drop, $30 at Harbor Frieght, Ive use this hitch towing everything for 8yrs now.

image_21165.jpg

Edited by nyryan2001

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