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My Boatmate Trailer....Concerns About My Bunks


Afun

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I have had some issues. At first it would not back up. Warranty repair. I already got a flat. The Fulton Jack is sometimes a little tall fully compressed for the spot in my driveway. I have to kick the wheel onto the ground. Its also not that smooth when being cranked. I have issues sometimes with the connectivity of the plug to the hitch plug for all the lights to work properly. Now take a look at my bunks. I have several spots that have a paste looking thing, or is wear tear? It looks like a paste. I also have exposed wood in one corner.

The bunks overall do not look good to me. Would you bring this in for repair? This is a new trailer.

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Edited by Afun
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i have had a galvanized trailer from boatmate for 5 years use in only in saltwater..

the frame has been perfect ..

the fulton jacks...nothing but problems..they changed 2 on warranty in the first year and i have changed another 3..

the carpet on the banks have only started to tear ..

the banks came of a few times from the inned wood getting soft and the screws couldnt holf it.. and i put trailer in and out in minutes..

the alloy wheels look like s.... from the first year ..

apart from that it has been very reliable and still looks good !

all your problems should be fixed on warranty, write them a letter and i am sure they will fix eveything..

my warranty claims for jacks were very good... the jacks werent but the warranty was.

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Wow that looks horrible. I have a new Boatmate as well, and it's been on and off the trailer less than a dozen times, as I keep my boat on a lift. Right by the wheels I am showing wear through the carpeting as well, as the trailer seems very tight for my boat. My initial thought was that for a custom trailer, it should fit the boat better. I'm guessing that after I am on and off a few more times my bunks might show some wear similar to yours. I'm sure it's just pressure points from where your boat is most in contact with the trailer. Sounds like your Fulton Jack isn't the best either..........I agree with others above, you should get these looked at/fixed next time you are in for service. I would bet they will warranty those issues for you.

Edited by nmlejche
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So it sounds like the bunks may be looking like this because its a tight fit. The headquarters of Boatmate is about a 30 minute drive for me. I imagine that you must bring it without the boat on it. Don't know if they remove the boat for you. I do not have a slip.

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User error for the most part....

You are literally burning those carpet bunks buns and need to put that trailer deeper into the water. Boat mate trailers are a tight fit and you can drop them in pretty deep. Power loading is great way to tear up a trailer and and boat.

You might need to reevaluate your trailer hitch...sounds like you need to eliminate the amount of drop. i use a 1" drop that is flipped over so it is raised. You may have already screwed up your jack by kicking it onto the ground.

For a guy that has a really nice boat - you are really on pace to tear it up fast

For the most part...your post has many assumptions. Yes, I am learning many things quite quickly. I am putting that trailer in very deep when launching. Any deeper I will sink my exhaust into the water. I do a pretty good job lining up the boat when retrieving.

You post just sucks.

  • Like 2
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Afun Brother, I think Murphy is right:

Those burns in the carpet = you coming in too fast on the trailer and trailer too shallow. As I slide into the trailer I am at .5mph.

Your jack stand too tall? I wanna see a pic of your boat hooked up to the truck from the side.... Jack too tall and hard to crank suggests you might not have the hitch high enough.... Is your bowstop strut location adjustable? It might be too far forward on the trailer putting too much weight on the front end of the trailer.

Before boatmate, I would have NEVER considered a black or colored hull due to bunk rub marks.... I just sold my G23 with 75hrs, NOT A SINGLE SCRATCH. So much my next has a black hull.

Edited by nyryan2001
  • Like 2
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Afun, You really need to look at your hitch height when hooked to your tow vehicle, like Murphy said. Take a picture for us hooked up on level ground. It can also be a combination of hitch height and that your tow vehicle is squatting. If your trailer jack will not lower, it's not a problem with the trailer or jack. The marks on the carpet are not from launching if you are floating the boat off. That will happen in just a few trips if you are not deep enough and power loading. Every ramp is different, but you should be backed far enough to submerge the bunks. Also, if your hitch height is too low this could contribute to your problem. Call your dealer or Boatmate, they should be happy to make a trip to the ramp with you to look at your bunks and give some tips.

Agree with Ryan's post too....

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I agree with Afun.

my jack stand on the LSV was too tall as well. when fully lowered, it was really tall and then it was really hard to crank. To compound the problem, the jack really didn't go up very high.

on a side note, the MC trailer has the same jack and I have the same problem. Going to see about getting a different model Fulton.

Afun, How do you have two hands on the trailer and still operate the camera? LMAO!!

Edited by bamabonners
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^^ my exhaust is 2-3" under water every time.... Just keep the engine running, no issues!!

Yeah same. I dont think I have ever launched or recovered without my exhaust bubbling the surface of the water from underneath. My connection on my Tundra is underwater too.

The only thing I am unhappy about is connection of the 7pin. The lights dont always work depending on that fit, Ive had people wave me down and tell me a brake light is out.

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I tell my vehicle driver to put the tailpipe in the water until he sees bubbles!!!. I don't even start my boat my to get if off the trailer. When the driver gently applies the break my boat just floats off the trailer...

I have a black hull....keeps it looking really nice.

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Yeah same. I dont think I have ever launched or recovered without my exhaust bubbling the surface of the water from underneath. My connection on my Tundra is underwater too.

The only thing I am unhappy about is connection of the 7pin. The lights dont always work depending on that fit, Ive had people wave me down and tell me a brake light is out.

Do a quick check, open the swing away tongue and pull the wires out a few inches from the trailer frame. There's another quick disconnect there, be sure it's plugged in well and not a bad idea to zip tie it. Can't be sure, but I would definitely check that.

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Afun Brother, I think Murphy is right:

Those burns in the carpet = you coming in too fast on the trailer and trailer too shallow. As I slide into the trailer I am at .5mph.

Your jack stand too tall? I wanna see a pic of your boat hooked up to the truck from the side.... Jack too tall and hard to crank suggests you might not have the hitch high enough.... Is your bowstop strut location adjustable? It might be too far forward on the trailer putting too much weight on the front end of the trailer.

Before boatmate, I would have NEVER considered a black or colored hull due to bunk rub marks.... I just sold my G23 with 75hrs, NOT A SINGLE SCRATCH. So much my next has a black hull.

Good Post. I have a little squatting on the FJ, but not much. Overall it looks good. It could be my driveway with a gentle uneven part on the surface. Our lakes are all past full pool with all rain we have here. All the ramps are super high. With that being said, I will stick the tail pipe in the water next time. Bottom line...my old Boatmate trailer that was on my 04 Wakesetter was awesome. No LED's, no bling, no neon Malibu light....just functional. When I left my dealer with my older boat the salesman said...they don't make those Boatmate trailers like they use to. I had no idea what he was talking about.

I continue to learn everything about boating on this site. I mean everything. I feel pretty confident because of you guys and one gal giving me these kind of pointers.

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Good Post. I have a little squatting on the FJ, but not much. Overall it looks good. It could be my driveway with a gentle uneven part on the surface. Our lakes are all past full pool with all rain we have here. All the ramps are super high. With that being said, I will stick the tail pipe in the water next time. Bottom line...my old Boatmate trailer that was on my 04 Wakesetter was awesome. No LED's, no bling, no neon Malibu light....just functional. When I left my dealer with my older boat the salesman said...they don't make those Boatmate trailers like they use to. I had no idea what he was talking about.

I continue to learn everything about boating on this site. I mean everything. I feel pretty confident because of you guys and one gal giving me these kind of pointers.

Look into these http://timbren.com/

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Yeah same. I dont think I have ever launched or recovered without my exhaust bubbling the surface of the water from underneath. My connection on my Tundra is underwater too.

The only thing I am unhappy about is connection of the 7pin. The lights dont always work depending on that fit, Ive had people wave me down and tell me a brake light is out.

said- I also have an '11 Tundra... I moved my truck's bumper wiring harness from under the bumper to above, doesn't get dunked anymore... And keep a can of WD40 in the truck and give it a quick spray every other time.... Zero connection issues.

That wiring harness getting dunked fouls the terminals and pins quickly.... Since I moved to on top, and use WD40- works great.

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You all realize that the jack height is adjustable, right? Unbolt the jack and adjust it to the height range you need. The mfg can't doesn't expect low towing vehicles, as the trailer needs to ride level.

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said- I also have an '11 Tundra... I moved my truck's bumper wiring harness from under the bumper to above, doesn't get dunked anymore... And keep a can of WD40 in the truck and give it a quick spray every other time.... Zero connection issues.

That wiring harness getting dunked fouls the terminals and pins quickly.... Since I moved to on top, and use WD40- works great.

I know in the salt water world....a lot of those guys will actually disconnect trailer harness due to the issues with salt water, electricity and copper wire. That would also mean having to manually activate the reverse solenoid.

I have always found that interesting...we have a couple shallow water sport boats that we do this to.

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Guys, the jacks are really easy to adjust. While hooked up to your truck (or sitting on a jack stand) take the jack off the trailer with the 4 bolts. There are 2 3/4" bolts to loosen, then slide the jack in the direction you need to go. Tighten, put jack back on, done!

Edited by skurfer
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You all realize that the jack height is adjustable, right? Unbolt the jack and adjust it to the height range you need. The mfg can't doesn't expect low towing vehicles, as the trailer needs to ride level.

Thanks Peter! Never had to do that running level behind my truck, but good to know.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCsHNSShhn0&feature=player_embedded

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Guys, the jacks are really easy to adjust. While hooked up to your truck (or sitting on a jack stand) take the jack off the trailer. There are 2 3/4" bolts to loosen, then slide the jack in the direction you need to go. Tighten, put jack back on, done!

Just looked at mine after Smootwaters post, like you say looks easy. I've always try to run level, so it's never been an issue behind a F150.

Edited by thtrog
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One suggestion too for towing is to install air bags on your vehicle. Simple to do and not overly expensive. This allows you to control the hitch height (sag) and tongue bounce. I tow with a GMC 2500HD with a 6" lift and while I don't get much sag from the Mailbu I did from my other two boats that were much heavier. Controlling the sag and bounce makes towing much more comfortable. When your not towing air them down and the ride remains stock. I just put the air valves in place of the rear upper license plate bolts. Something to think about especially if your towing with a lighter vehicle.

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