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Power Wedge Actuator Replacement Instructions - 07 VLX


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The power wedge on my 07 VLX quit working a few weeks ago and I narrowed it down to one of the actuators going bad. I ordered a couple replacement actuators yesterday (Lenco part #15060) from Amazon and they should be here early next week. I wanted to see if anyone with experience replacing these had any instructions they could offer for doing this project yourself. I have already disconnected the existing actuators from the wedge to the point where they are just hanging by the wires so I could see which one wasn't working. Thanks in advance for any help on the subject.

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I did this last summer on my 07 VLX. It is really quite easy. Here is what I did:

1. Disconnect actuators from wedge (sounds like you have already done this)

2. Cut the wires where they are spliced. Mine were both inside the starboard v-drive compartment zip-tied to other cables under the gunnel. Keep track of how the cables were spliced together as you will need to know this to splice the new ones.

3. Unscrew the small plastic nuts where the cables enter the boat through the wedge mounting bracket.

4. Pull the cables out. I found that the holes drilled through the wedge bracket and the hull did not line up exactly, so the cable was a little difficult to pull out.

5. Remove the nut from each of the cables. I can't remember if there was a small rubber gasket as well. If so, remove those, too.

6. Put the plastic nut (and gasket, if present) on each of the new actuator cables.

7. Push the new cables through the holes into the boat. Because the holes were not lines up exactly, I found that I had to take a drill (don't remember the size) and drill out the hull a little. You have to be really careful not to hit the inside of the wedge bracket, though, because there are threads there for the plastic nut. I used a drill bit that was just smaller than the hole through the wedge bracket.

8. Once the cables are pulled through into the boat, tighten each plastic nut so that it seals around the cable. Don't over-tighten these nuts.

9. The cables will be coming through into the engine compartment below the exhaust manifold. Find them and route them to the spot where the cut ends of the wires are located (see step 2).

10. Splice the cables for each actuator just like the original ones.

I replaced both actuators, so the instructions were for doing both. Obviously, if you are just going to replace the one, you would need to figure out which cable to cut.

Good luck!

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Thanks for the info. I took a quick look in the starboard rear compartment yesterday and found a group of wires all zip-tied together just where you described. You mentioned cutting the old wires at the point where they were originally spliced and I was wondering if you had to pull the wires out from the gunnel and unwrap them to find this point. By the way you described it, it sounds like there is a clear point along the wire that you want to cut it and I didn't really see that in my quick inspection. I have not received the replacement actuators yet but I'm assuming they come with enough wire to run from the wedge to this splice point? Thanks again for your help.

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Make sure you turn the chrome ends of the actuators all the way in and measure the distance from hole to hole so that the distance is the same on both.

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Thanks for the info. I took a quick look in the starboard rear compartment yesterday and found a group of wires all zip-tied together just where you described. You mentioned cutting the old wires at the point where they were originally spliced and I was wondering if you had to pull the wires out from the gunnel and unwrap them to find this point. By the way you described it, it sounds like there is a clear point along the wire that you want to cut it and I didn't really see that in my quick inspection. I have not received the replacement actuators yet but I'm assuming they come with enough wire to run from the wedge to this splice point? Thanks again for your help.

When you trace the wires from the existing actuators, you will find a point where they are spliced. You will likely have to cut the zip ties to get the wires separated enough to work with them.

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My wedge was only partially moving about 2 weeks ago. We were wakeboarding when fully ballasted and the wedge would not go all the way down while under way. Usually, I have had no problem adjusting the wedge a little down or a little up while under way.

I suspected a wedge ram failure and purchased 2 new ones. One of mine had some slop to it, so I was sure that it was failing. But I got out there today with some other people to manage the controls and paddle wheel while I played with the wedge, and it feels like both rams are operating, and the wedge seems to be working just fine ever since. It bugs me to have $450 worth of wedge rams sitting on the shelf in my garage whilst I wait for a wedge failure. Do I have to disconnect the rams to prove that they are failing, or is feeling the motor turn in them reliable enough?

Edited by TallRedRider
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The new actuators came yesterday and are going in this evening. Does it matter if you install them at fully up or down position? I would assume either is fine as long as you make sure your gauge is set to match it for calibration purposes. I don't know what position will be easiest to work with under the bracket but the actuators came fully compressed which I guess is the wedge down position. Thanks again for all the help so far.

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Let us know how it goes. I've got to do the same thing real soon. Which actuators did you get 15118-001?

Will do. Based on some other threads on here, I was under the impression the part number is 15060-001. That should be the part that replaced the original 102 XD. I ordered them on Amazon from the seller below for about $200/each.

http://www.amazon.com/Stroke-Extrm-Duty-Actuator/dp/B000BB3ONS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374597798&sr=8-1&keywords=lenco+15060

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Followed Tao's instructions and installed both new actuators in less than an hour. The holes in my wedge bracket going into the hull must have been lined up better because I was able to pull the wires through with someone else pushing them from the outside without any drilling. It was definitely an easier job with an extra set of hands. We got everything hooked up with our wedge gauge reading the up position so we unscrewed the actuators all the way out to the up position (and measured to make sure they were the same length) so everything would be calibrated. Overall, it was a much easier job than I expected. Dropping $400 on a pair of new actuators was the hardest part. Tao, thanks for your help.....your instructions were spot-on.

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  • 1 year later...

I found a place in Stuart, FL that sells them for $215 each, if anyone cares to save a few bucks.

It appears that mine has fittings to remove the splicing step. Is this a sign that these will have to be replaced often?

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When I replaced my actuators on my 08 was given instructions on how to calibrate them thru the screen in dash. Ya might want to look into that so the gauge and rams/actuators are in harmony w each other. I tried to find mine to day for ya but can't seem to locate the paperwork I had for calibration. Maybe one of the wonderful crew here can help w that.

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I found that option on mine too. I wasn't aware that you have to trick the computer into thinking the boat is moving to calibrate it. I'm going to test it tomorrow.

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I got the wedge to move into the down position, but it stills says that its not in a valid position. I installed them all the way out (stowed position) and fine tuned it with the bolts. I've been searching the forum for similar posts.

Any recommendations?

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I just replaced the actuators on my 2102 ltv because some animals chewed the wires. The wedge went from the down position on install to the up position after pressing up on the touch-screen but will not go down now when touching down on the touch-screen. The boat is on land and I can here the actuator spinning when the button is pressed. Thanks for any help.

Edited by forsterdh
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  • 2 years later...

I just did mine on an 08 LSV.  I replaced with the newer 5 lobe actuators.  As others said above it went smooth.  The hardest part was having someone push the wires into the holes while I pulled from inside the boat.  Its an easy splice of the wires.

Here is a link to the pdf on how to calibrate the wedge on boats with the same dash as my 08 LSV. (MUX)

http://www.bakesonline.com/images/MediaLibrary/PowerWedgeCalibrate.pdf

There is a more obscure document that explains how to adjust the black sensor next to the actuator to make sure that it is raising and lowering to the proper positions.  I have attached it here. 

Took my boat out with the new actuators and it worked great.  I did not have to replace the control box. 

 

Good Luck.

Wedge Sensor Calibration.jpg

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  • 2 years later...

Ok.  I got it done.  I did the same thing as STATEFAN.  My gauge was reading 'up' so I extended the actuators all the way out so the wedge was up.  I drove them down on the trailer and then lake tested to bring them back up and exercise them a few times. No issues.

Thanks Tao for the step-by-step instructions.

Hopefully they will last a while, or at least until I trade it in.

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  • 1 year later...

Hi 

I have an 2007 Wakesetter, one of the actuators is stuck, is it fixable or should I replace the one or both at the same time?

Also if replacing, how can I tell if mine is a 3 lobe or a 5 lobe, and are the three lobes available? 

Thank you Dan

 

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the 2007 is a 3 lobe.  I would do both at the same time.  I have just replaced the motors on mine a couple of times.  The motors are available on eBay.  I will likely do the actuators at some point as mine keep leaking.  I have replaced the O-Rings at the top of them but there is another piece where the actuator goes in and out that is some sort of hard plastic spacer and mine fell apart.  I get several years out of the new motors.  On the one that is stuck you can probably get it working again.  take the motor out and break it free.  Spray is with an lubricant made for electrical parts and put it back together.  I did a write up a couple years ago with all the details. 

https://www.themalibucrew.com/index.php?/forums/topic/66792-power-wedge-actuator-rebuild-2010-lsv/&tab=comments#comment-1026666

Kris

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  • 4 weeks later...

I’m having a similar issue where I need to replace my actuators due to the 20A fuse blowing, but my wedge is stuck in the ‘up’ position. Is it possible to replace these while in the up position, or does the wedge have to be down? Any pointers would be great, this is fantastic info!! Thanks everyone in advance. 

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