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Oil pressure?


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Pulling kids on the tubes this weekend soon as I stopped to anchor down I got the beep of no oil pressure immediately looked at the oil pressure gauge and indeed nothing. Shut boat down waited a few seconds and fired back up all good, this is my second season with my 2006 LSV 21 about 377 hours on it first time this has happened. Maybe just a fluke or the start of something bad....any thoughts are greatly appreciated!!

Mike

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Did you check your oil level? A low oil level, followed by a sharp turn or quick acceleration can cause a temporary low oil pressure warning level

Level was fine I had 0 (Zero) oil pressure

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If it wasn't the oil level my next two guesses would be a loose wire on the OP gauge or on the OP sending unit followed by a bad OP sending unit. Easy enough to trace, next time your out have someone watch the gauge while you mess with the one or both.

Edited by wdr
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Lots of times, pressure will drop after a long run under load, but it doesn't drop to zero, unless something breaks, and you would know that. All would not be well with the engine. Either the sender or the gauge or the wires inbetween are the issue. Electric gauges are notarious for reading wrong. When ever we have had an issue on a performance boat engine that we aren't sure of, we hook up a mechanical gauge.

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Buddy gave me a mechanical pressure gage, where do I hook this up?

there should be a plug by the Dist, that you can remove and screw it in. Also by the oil filter is a small canister with a single wire running from it. Thats the sender for the dash gauge. you can remove that and put the mechanical in its place.

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there should be a plug by the Dist, that you can remove and screw it in. Also by the oil filter is a small canister with a single wire running from it. Thats the sender for the dash gauge. you can remove that and put the mechanical in its place.

Zone 5, do you know if its possible/how to install a mechanical engine temperature guage somewhere on the engine, Monsoon 5.7

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there should be a plug by the Dist, that you can remove and screw it in. Also by the oil filter is a small canister with a single wire running from it. Thats the sender for the dash gauge. you can remove that and put the mechanical in its place.

Best case would be to use a t-fitting etc. so you can have both, otherwise you can't monitor pressure while motoring...

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Zone 5, do you know if its possible/how to install a mechanical engine temperature guage somewhere on the engine, Monsoon 5.7

On a BB Chevy from Mercruiser, we had 2 fitting on the Stat housing that you could use. Also, on some intakes there is a fitting in the water passages. I haven't looked at my Monsoon to see if thats the case. I know there is nothing on the Stat housing. Some people have also replaced the block drain plug with the probe for the mechanical gauge. If you have closed cooling, you can replace the anode with the probe.

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Best case would be to use a t-fitting etc. so you can have both, otherwise you can't monitor pressure while motoring...

On a BB Chevy from Mercruiser, we had 2 fitting on the Stat housing that you could use. Also, on some intakes there is a fitting in the water passages. I haven't looked at my Monsoon to see if thats the case. I know there is nothing on the Stat housing. Some people have also replaced the block drain plug with the probe for the mechanical gauge. If you have closed cooling, you can replace the anode with the probe.

Just looked at mine, and there are 2 fitting in the intake. On mine, one is for the heater and one for a sensor. If you have no heater you have a place on the intake. If you do have a heater that leaves the block drain plug.

http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc464/cms271/water_zps887ce34f.jpg~original

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Buddy gave me a mechanical pressure gage, where do I hook this up?

there should be a plug by the Dist, that you can remove and screw it in. Also by the oil filter is a small canister with a single wire running from it. Thats the sender for the dash gauge. you can remove that and put the mechanical in its place.

On mine there is a plug by the Dist that you can tap into. red arrow points to it

http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc464/cms271/dist_zpscdb4025a.jpg~original

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On a BB Chevy from Mercruiser, we had 2 fitting on the Stat housing that you could use. Also, on some intakes there is a fitting in the water passages. I haven't looked at my Monsoon to see if thats the case. I know there is nothing on the Stat housing. Some people have also replaced the block drain plug with the probe for the mechanical gauge. If you have closed cooling, you can replace the anode with the probe.

Zone......don't take this wrong......but I wouldn't use the block drains to monitor engine temp. Temp is much cooler in the bottom of the block than near the heads or intake manifold. Also.....if not cleared frequently the drains can become clogged and severely affect the temp reading even at that location. I'm sure you wouldn't really recommend doing this.

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Zone......don't take this wrong......but I wouldn't use the block drains to monitor engine temp. Temp is much cooler in the bottom of the block than near the heads or intake manifold. Also.....if not cleared frequently the drains can become clogged and severely affect the temp reading even at that location. I'm sure you wouldn't really recommend doing this.

Nope, I wouldn't but when you have no other options its all thats left. we have had to do it on a few engines and it works for what its purpose is. As long as you have a baseline, its all relative.

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Check the cylinder head in between the spark plugs, there should be a brass plug you can remove on either side(unless its an LS based engine) and put the manual gauge in there, the cylinder head is also the best place to get an accurate reading

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I vote for the cylinder head location as well. This is the most critical area to monitor. It's the best place to take temp as long as the exhaust manifold is not in the way of puting a sensor here.

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Zone......don't take this wrong......but I wouldn't use the block drains to monitor engine temp. Temp is much cooler in the bottom of the block than near the heads or intake manifold. Also.....if not cleared frequently the drains can become clogged and severely affect the temp reading even at that location. I'm sure you wouldn't really recommend doing this.

Nope, I wouldn't but when you have no other options its all thats left. we have had to do it on a few engines and it works for what its purpose is. As long as you have a baseline, its all relative.

It would really help if I was paying total attention to my posts. and more important to the question asked. I'm on closed cooled motors here,(as mine is) not lake cooled. Duh on me. Yes, on a lake cooled the block drain is going to read maybe 60-90 degrees colder simply because it would be reading the water almost as soon as it comes out of the lake. my bad.

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It would really help if I was paying total attention to my posts. and more important to the question asked. I'm on closed cooled motors here,(as mine is) not lake cooled. Duh on me. Yes, on a lake cooled the block drain is going to read maybe 60-90 degrees colder simply because it would be reading the water almost as soon as it comes out of the lake. my bad.

Okay....that does make more sense!

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It would really help if I was paying total attention to my posts. and more important to the question asked. I'm on closed cooled motors here,(as mine is) not lake cooled. Duh on me. Yes, on a lake cooled the block drain is going to read maybe 60-90 degrees colder simply because it would be reading the water almost as soon as it comes out of the lake. my bad.

Okay....that does make more sense!

Sorry to everyone for the confusion that I may have caused

Sent from my droid in the boonies

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Best case would be to use a t-fitting etc. so you can have both, otherwise you can't monitor pressure while motoring...

I am talking oil pressure here....

That's what I did, but you need a glycerin filled gauge so the pointer stays stable.

Edited by electricjohn
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Back to the OP's question. I am willing to bet it is an electrical connection acting up. Most likely at the cannon (engine room to helm) plug. Give it a wiggle and see if it solves your problem. The gauges only operate at 5 volts, with a milliamp signal, so loose or dirty connections easily affect readings.

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