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Biggest baddest SUV tow vehicle for under $15k?


shawndoggy

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Have you changed altitude significantly from your start up? If so you may try stooping and a vehicle shut down key off. Restart,some ECT software only read air density one time at key on. You will need to go to a full key off before restart.

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My towing experience from many many trips accross Wa state ( Vantage hill, snoqualmie pass and blewett pass).

-chevy 6.0 (3.73 I think)

-denali 6.2 (3.73)

-ram 5.7 hemi (3.93 I think)

Hands down the best on tap power at all time is the 6.2. This is with a fully loaded boat ( including forgetting to dump half of my ballast), and full car in upper 90degree heat for ~6 hrs+ at 70+mph. The only issue I have had is with the transmission cooling, which could be fixed relatively easily.

That being said, what else do you need out of the vehicle. We have the shortwheelbase denali with 3 kids and the dog, there is absolutely NO room for anything behind the third row. So we end up taking the Ram because of the storage (crewcab). But if I am doing ~50mph with everything on the mountian passes and try to accelerate to pass, it has absolutely no spare power (acceleration is like driving a semi up the pass). The 6.0 is very similar. The denali will downshift and take off like there is nothing there.

Average mpg in these fully loaded scenarios:

5.7 & 6.0 average is about 9-11

6.2 average is 11

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

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No 6.0 that 7.3 exclusion is were it is at hands down for towing. The 6.0's are notorious dogs. If that was in Denver it would be in.my driveway that thing is sick

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Just for the sake of argument would you guys consider a 7.3 excursion limited with 180k on the clock that has been used as a work truck?

Maintenance all up to date, reliable (allegedly), but interior and exterior not treated nicely, and somewhat "rough". Paint is said to "need clearcoat." Has lived outside all its life (and would continue to under my ownership).

Used and driven daily for business though, so a premium (again allegedly) put on keeping up on mech issues? Tires good batteries good, oil changes up to date recent tranny rebuild, etc.

What says the crew about such a beast? I was real close to pulling the trigger on a similar f250 last fall for $9k with 170k on the clock. It looked used but was the best driving of any of the 7.3s I have checked out.

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Shawn,

I live right by Bullards and had your issue with an 09 Silverado 5.3 I owned for a short time towing the camper to Tahoe. The truck would do it, but not well, would overheat and I'd be in everyone's way while doing it... hell, even big rigs would pass me! I've owned three 7.3's and a 6.0. They will both more than accomplish your goal of towing the boat and all the kids/pets/food, etc... I wouldn't completely shy away from the 6.0, it can tow with the best of them, but it did have the "infamous issue", however by this time many owners have had that fixed and if they haven't it isn't an end of the world fix...

One spin I'll put on this that I haven't seen mentioned is this: you could upgrade the cooling on the QX56 and it MAY improve, however, you will still have that constant foot mashing the gas, constantly checking the gauges, watching out for everyone crawling up your rear bumper pucker factor of an underpowered rig for your application. Whether you think so or not, that anxiety decreases your overall enjoyment of your trip. If you pick up a diesel tow rig, you won't have ANY of those issues. You'll have your foot moderately in it over that grade (yes I've towed over it MANY times) and will be cruising right along with the flow of traffic. Overall stability will be better, braking will be better and the safety of your family will be better.

Additionally, on those couple short but steep grades coming out of the middle and South forks of the Yuba back to Nevada City you won't be the A-hole, holding everyone else up! ;-) and you'll be able to skip the ole Chevron in NSJ, although you SHOULDN'T skip the Brass Rail, that's always worth the stop!

Good luck with the decision, at the end of the day you gotta make the decision that is right for you, the rest of us are giving free, biased opinions!

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Just for the sake of argument would you guys consider a 7.3 excursion limited with 180k on the clock that has been used as a work truck? Maintenance all up to date, reliable (allegedly), but interior and exterior not treated nicely, and somewhat "rough". Paint is said to "need clearcoat." Has lived outside all its life (and would continue to under my ownership). Used and driven daily for business though, so a premium (again allegedly) put on keeping up on mech issues? Tires good batteries good, oil changes up to date recent tranny rebuild, etc. What says the crew about such a beast? I was real close to pulling the trigger on a similar f250 last fall for $9k with 170k on the clock. It looked used but was the best driving of any of the 7.3s I have checked out.

I'd keep looking...

Have you been looking 2wd or 4wd? Towing you could get away with the 2wd, not sure how much you'd need 4wd and it might save you a couple bucks...?

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4wd is absolute positive must have. It's the difference between making it home from work or not in December and January.

You are right there are quite a few 2wd 7.3s out there. Oh to live in Texas...

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Shawn,

I live right by Bullards and had your issue with an 09 Silverado 5.3 I owned for a short time towing the camper to Tahoe. The truck would do it, but not well, would overheat and I'd be in everyone's way while doing it... hell, even big rigs would pass me! I've owned three 7.3's and a 6.0. They will both more than accomplish your goal of towing the boat and all the kids/pets/food, etc... I wouldn't completely shy away from the 6.0, it can tow with the best of them, but it did have the "infamous issue", however by this time many owners have had that fixed and if they haven't it isn't an end of the world fix...

One spin I'll put on this that I haven't seen mentioned is this: you could upgrade the cooling on the QX56 and it MAY improve, however, you will still have that constant foot mashing the gas, constantly checking the gauges, watching out for everyone crawling up your rear bumper pucker factor of an underpowered rig for your application. Whether you think so or not, that anxiety decreases your overall enjoyment of your trip. If you pick up a diesel tow rig, you won't have ANY of those issues. You'll have your foot moderately in it over that grade (yes I've towed over it MANY times) and will be cruising right along with the flow of traffic. Overall stability will be better, braking will be better and the safety of your family will be better.

Additionally, on those couple short but steep grades coming out of the middle and South forks of the Yuba back to Nevada City you won't be the A-hole, holding everyone else up! ;-) and you'll be able to skip the ole Chevron in NSJ, although you SHOULDN'T skip the Brass Rail, that's always worth the stop!

Good luck with the decision, at the end of the day you gotta make the decision that is right for you, the rest of us are giving free, biased opinions!

The one that gets me every time is coming out of Nevada city up to Scott's flat. Once up to Scott's flat, if I've been nice and haven't pushed it too hard I can generally get it to cool enough to do the rest of the grade ok. Although yeah, I also know the road well enough to build momentum when I can etc.

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Nothing tows like a diesel, but good luck finding one on a biudget that doesn't have a million miles. I ran into the same problem while looking for my tow vehicle. When looking at used diesels on a budget you have very limited options and its hard to find anything worth buying under 25k. Also anything after 2008 is gonna have dpf's involved and those tend to clog with the commute you just described. For a cheap tow vehicle it's hard to go wrong with a big block Chevy, but as you know you'll feel it at the pump.

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I bought a diesel after my Tundra got 4mpg towing a small tag camper. 2001 Duramax was a great truck but it had the injector issues so I sold it. Now I have an 06 Megacab with the Cummins. It will sit 6. Limo style in the rear seat.

Just for comparison, I towed my LSV out of Phoenix up the Black Canyon Freeway in late June, in the afternoon. Temps outside were 110 or so. There is a monster climb on the way up to the Black Mesa. Loads of TTT going slow. Signs telling you to turn your AC off and such. I drove up that hill with the AC on and the Cruise set at 70mph. I did hear the fan clutch come on but that was it. And I averaged 15mpg towing 800 miles including the climb into Flagstaff which is 7000 feet.

I looked real hard at the Excursion. I like it but I refuse to risk a 6.0L and the 7.3L is loud and gutless IMO. The 7.3L is bullet proof though.

When my Megacab self destructs I think I might just get a V8 Excursion and put my cummins in it.

I would stay away from the 07-08 diesels. The 09-10's are better but their fuel milage stinks. I have a friend that bought a 2009 Ford with the twin turbo. Runs good but gets 9mpg in town and 8 mpg towing his tag lol.

I have a cabover and pulled my LSV to Havasu in May. Averaged 12mpg with a heavy head wind both ways.

And you can get a block heater for the diesel. Makes the truck warm in just a few minutes. I will never own a gas truck again. My wife thinks I'm nuts but it does better than a gasser and I like my odds being in my 8000 pound truck.

Tough call really. If I was in your shoes I would do a national search and pony up the cash. Excursion or bust. Or sacrifice a couple seats and go Cummins.

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If you are considering a diesel option, I think that a 6.0 Powerstroke which has been bullet proofed is a better choice than the 7.3. You can usually find lower mileage/price options on the market and the performance will be better. 2006 6.0's had less warranty claims than the last year of the 7.3. If you "stud" them, address EGR and oil cooler, and install a good "tune" that motor will run for 400K and out perform any 7.3

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How about a CAI? I'm sure there are other small things you could do. You could also stillen supercharge it. My dads friend lives in Colorado and pulls a big trailer over mountain passes. With the supercharger the QX has no issues. He likes it almost as much as his 07 mega cab.

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The QX has idiot gauges so no numbers, but it will be rock solid at a tick "under half" or else it will be skyrocketing up to the red. I do know that the QX has limp mode from the first time it happened. :blush: Now I can see it happening, turn off the AC, back off the gas, turn on the hazzards and suffer through.

With the vride the QX was absolutely no prob. this only happens when the grade is steep enough that I need to kick down to 2nd and hold north of 4500 rpms for a sustained period. We'd hold 3rd no prob with the vride.

The radiator has been "flushed" whatever that means. Probably that they drained it and put new fluid in for all I know. The radiator shop was (surprise!) certain that a replacement radiator would fix the issue.

yeah, a flush isn't a cleaning. They make an acid based solution that you put in the engine and run for a day or so, flush it, fill it again with the solution, then flush it and fill with antifreeze.

And what's this dreaded bump steer? We just got an Armada and don't know of this.

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what is this "bullet proofed" you all keep referring to? And what is the "infamous problem" with the 6.0L?

The 6.0 Powerstroke was rushed to production by Ford as an answer to the Duramax and increasing emmisions required out of diesel engines. Because they were still using the old HEUI catapillar fuel injection system, Navastar slapped a poorly engineered EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) system to meet EPA pollution standards that would flash boil the coolant and lead to failed head gaskets. In conjunction with weak head bolts and bad gaskets, these engines would constatnty have head leaking issues (especially when tuned). The oil coolers were also poorly designed. Because of these issues, the 6.0 got a terrible reputation (rightfully so) and was re-named the 6 leaker. It also lead to Ford and Navastar parting ways because of warranty issues.

Because of this rep, the 6.0 can be purchased pretty cheap (relative to other diesels) and for a few thousand dollars, can have the weak points addressed, providing you with a reliable, high torque pulling machine.

Bullet proofed includes:

1) ARP head studs to replace the bolts

2) Latest head gasket design

3) Upgraded oil cooler

4) EGR upgrade

5) Good custom STC tune.

This will give you a motor that will have 800 - 900 pound feet of torque, 15-18 mpg, and will last longer than the truck.

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The 6.0 Powerstroke was rushed to production by Ford as an answer to the Duramax and increasing emmisions required out of diesel engines. Because they were still using the old HEUI catapillar fuel injection system, Navastar slapped a poorly engineered EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) system to meet EPA pollution standards that would flash boil the coolant and lead to failed head gaskets. In conjunction with weak head bolts and bad gaskets, these engines would constatnty have head leaking issues (especially when tuned). The oil coolers were also poorly designed. Because of these issues, the 6.0 got a terrible reputation (rightfully so) and was re-named the 6 leaker. It also lead to Ford and Navastar parting ways because of warranty issues.

Because of this rep, the 6.0 can be purchased pretty cheap (relative to other diesels) and for a few thousand dollars, can have the weak points addressed, providing you with a reliable, high torque pulling machine.

Bullet proofed includes:

1) ARP head studs to replace the bolts

2) Latest head gasket design

3) Upgraded oil cooler

4) EGR upgrade

5) Good custom STC tune.

This will give you a motor that will have 800 - 900 pound feet of torque, 15-18 mpg, and will last longer than the truck.

Thank you very much.

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Shawn-

I think the best value for the buck for a tow vehicle is anything with the 6.0L GM. So Avalanches, 2500s, or the 1/2 ton workmaxes....

I think the cheapest value would be a used Avalance with the 6.0L or a used Tahoe/Yukon 3/4ton. i dont think gears matter for these weights when you get above 6.0L and bigger. you'll have plenty of torque and HP. if you get the low gears you burn more fuel at 65-75 and if you get the high gears you'll burn more gas 0-45. I think it"ll even out.

I am in the same boat. i would love to have a 6.0 or bigger and ideally a 3/4 dedicated tow vehicle that just stays with the trailer. how nice would it be to not have to unhitch ALL summer?

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06.... the old armada clone. All of the QX's come with the equivalent of the Armada's "big tow" package... trans cooler, lower final drive ratio (though in my extreme example not quite low enough), self leveling rear air suspension, etc.

It *pulls* great. A much better handling tow vehicle than the 05 F150 it replaced, especially after putting load range e tires on. It really does pull nicely.... unless I try to load it with boat and people and tow it over a 7,000' pass in 100* heat. Then it sorta hates on me.

Stillen makes a supercharger that bolts right up to the 5.6L... I'll bet that solves your 2nd vs 3rd gear issue. :)

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06.... the old armada clone. All of the QX's come with the equivalent of the Armada's "big tow" package... trans cooler, lower final drive ratio (though in my extreme example not quite low enough), self leveling rear air suspension, etc.

It *pulls* great. A much better handling tow vehicle than the 05 F150 it replaced, especially after putting load range e tires on. It really does pull nicely.... unless I try to load it with boat and people and tow it over a 7,000' pass in 100* heat. Then it sorta hates on me.

Stillen makes a supercharger that bolts right up to the 5.6L... I'll bet that solves your 2nd vs 3rd gear issue. :)

Exactly what I was pushing for. That and a CAI

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