Sea c***(valve)

[Lakenut]

I've never changed an impeller on the water, but it seems like that alone would make it a good thing to add if you don't have one.

On a DD isn't the water pump above water line?

[Brad B]

Oops Pete

Thats one from a MLS intake NOT thae raw water intake

[WakeGirl]

I've never changed an impeller on the water, but it seems like that alone would make it a good thing to add if you don't have one.

On a DD isn't the water pump above water line?

I think it is on both dd & vd boats, but I've still heard enough stories to stand my hair on end that it seems like a good idea. I suspect that there's enough static pressure on the hull to make the difference, & it's not that far above the water line to boot.

[Pistol Pete]

There was a story on here about a year ago. Something to the effect of some teenage kid out on the family boat, one of the engine cooling hoses bursts or has a major leak going on. The kids on the boat don't realize it until the boat is really low in the water. The bilge can't keep up with that much volume.

They tried to race it back to the dock but, the faster the boat engine revved, the more water got pumped into the bilge. That is a situation that makes perfect sense to me. If I've got a broken or split hose, I'm not going to notice it until I see my wake get really big. By the time I shut it down, track down the leak, pull out my duct tape and try to repair it, I could be underwater. There is a lot of potential leaks that could occur.

I'll install this valve for the peace of mind that if I ever have the boat sinking for this reason, all I gotta do is throw the valve. Then, I've got all the time in the world to deal with the problem.

[chathamsolutions]

ya, I know, stupid question... but what does a 'positive' valve mean?

[88Skier]

There was a story on here about a year ago. Something to the effect of some teenage kid out on the family boat, one of the engine cooling hoses bursts or has a major leak going on. The kids on the boat don't realize it until the boat is really low in the water. The bilge can't keep up with that much volume.

They tried to race it back to the dock but, the faster the boat engine revved, the more water got pumped into the bilge. That is a situation that makes perfect sense to me. If I've got a broken or split hose, I'm not going to notice it until I see my wake get really big. By the time I shut it down, track down the leak, pull out my duct tape and try to repair it, I could be underwater. There is a lot of potential leaks that could occur.

I'll install this valve for the peace of mind that if I ever have the boat sinking for this reason, all I gotta do is throw the valve. Then, I've got all the time in the world to deal with the problem.

I had that happen once, a long time ago on a Correct Craft. One of the manifold hoses came off. The engine started running weird. When I stopped the boat, water came running from the back of the boat and I was ankle deep. It was pretty intense until I found the source of the water and realized that I wasn't sinking. I had launched the boat a few minutes before. The raw water pump, pumps a huge valume of water.

[Brad B]

JUst don't forget to open it back up - or else....

And I know you say how could anyone forget that - and no one here as ever forgotten the plug.

[WakeGirl]

[Tom Sawyer]

A couple of years ago I had a small leak in my flushpro. After pulling the boat out of the water I was attempting to remove the hose from the fluspro when all of the sudden the end of the flushpro broke off completely. Had the boat been in the water it would have been headed to the bottom as I have no shut-off valve.

After a short ride yesterday, I found that the flushpro I replaced my old one with a couple of years ago has also developed a leak. This is my second one, and at 50 bux a pop it's going to be my last. Maybe I'm getting some freeze damage, but I make every effort to get all the water out of it.

Anyway, the shut-off valve could sure come in handy should you need to service your cooling system while the boat is in the water.

[NorCaliBu]

NorCaliBu,

Those handles can be unscrewed and re-position to the opposite side, would that helped?

No. At 180* from where it is now, the handle would rotate downwards and would hit the hull/bilge.

Are these really needed other than in an emergency?

I installed it so that I could clean out the raw water intake strainer while on the water. The strainer is well below the waterline in my Sporty.

[WakeGirl]

NorCaliBu,

Those handles can be unscrewed and re-position to the opposite side, would that helped?

No. At 180* from where it is now, the handle would rotate downwards and would hit the hull/bilge.

Are these really needed other than in an emergency?

I installed it so that I could clean out the raw water intake strainer while on the water. The strainer is well below the waterline in my Sporty.

I believe that you can also get a "bow tie" style, where the handle is much smaller & has a piece on each side, rather than one big long lever on one side. Our '04 had one like that. That might get you what you need.

[NorCaliBu]

I believe that you can also get a "bow tie" style, where the handle is much smaller & has a piece on each side, rather than one big long lever on one side. Our '04 had one like that. That might get you what you need.

Moot point now. The cut down handle works fine, no reason to change it.

[Faceplant409]

ya, I know, stupid question... but what does a 'positive' valve mean?

What I really should have said was a mechanical valve with a positive shut off. --As opposed to a valve with a vacuum or spring loaded shut off. (I got more technical than I needed to... shocking, I know...)

Pat

[Pistol Pete]

A little update here.

I installed a full port brass 1" valve from Ace ~$20.

Stuck on a 3" piece of brass pipe threaded on both ends ~$8.

Cut down and re-installed the hardwall hose.

[Faceplant409]

A little update here.

I installed a full port brass 1" valve from Ace ~$20.

Stuck on a 3" piece of brass pipe threaded on both ends ~$8.

Cut down and re-installed the hardwall hose.

Pete, you are choking your engine's cooling capacity. IIRC the hose is 1-1/4" ID, not 1".

Pat

[Pistol Pete]

Thanks for the concern, Pat.

You're right, the inside dia. of the hose is 1-1/4 but, I was forced to put on whatever valve would fit over the threaded pipe of the sea strainer. That ended up being a 1" full port valve. The innermost or smallest diameter of the valve is exactly 1". But, any pipes going to the valve or coming out of the valve are 1-1/4" so, they'll match up with the original hoses.

Unless, there's a 1-1/4 valve out there (which would be bigger) that would still fit the existing hoses and sea strainer (which would be too small I think) I actually bought a 1-1/4 valve at first, brought it home, and it fell right over on top of the sea strainer. Meaning the threaded female ends of the valve were too large of a dia. for the sea strainer.

[Pistol Pete]

'Nother update.

I was working on a 04 VLX today and happened to put a mirror down so that I could see the markings on the factory installed raw water shut off valve. Guess what, it's a 1" valve.

Then, when I was under the boat connecting the fake-a-lake, I noticed that the area right after the actual screen for the sea strainer isn't all that big. So, I'm perfectly comfortable with my 1" full port valve. FWIW.

[Faceplant409]

Huh! I did the same thing on my '99 SLXI and I used 1-1/4" brass.....

Okay!

P

[Pistol Pete]

Wow, that's weird.

I guess the female threaded inlets of either side of the valve can be different diameters. I would have thought that a 1" valve commanded a certain size pipe threading into it. This is sort of what I was trying to question in my second to last post.

Thanks again for the heads up, Pat.

[sgtsandbagger]

Looks like it's mandated this year that all thru hull water inlets have shut off valves. My 06 XTi has them on the freshwater intake and the ballast pump. There's 3 ball valves all together.

What's a simmer pump??

[yabetcha]

Sgt,

Simer pumps are impellor driven, reversible pumps similar to Jabsco pumps.

[sgtsandbagger]

Sgt,

Simer pumps are impellor driven, reversible pumps similar to Jabsco pumps.

Thanks for the education. I need some more!

[WakeGirl]

'Nother update.

I was working on a 04 VLX today and happened to put a mirror down so that I could see the markings on the factory installed raw water shut off valve. Guess what, it's a 1" valve.

Then, when I was under the boat connecting the fake-a-lake, I noticed that the area right after the actual screen for the sea strainer isn't all that big. So, I'm perfectly comfortable with my 1" full port valve. FWIW.

Huh! I did the same thing on my '99 SLXI and I used 1-1/4" brass.....

Okay!

P

Just to add to the database of information, I was doing some work with my raw water intake yesterday & discovered that I also have a 1" setup. The hose is flexible enough even with the wire inside to make it work with a 1.25" barbed fitting, but the valve assembly at the intake side as well as the opposite end that is on the vdrive unit is definitely 1".

[NorCaliBu]

Just to add to the database of information, I was doing some work with my raw water intake yesterday & discovered that I also have a 1" setup. The hose is flexible enough even with the wire inside to make it work with a 1.25" barbed fitting, but the valve assembly at the intake side as well as the opposite end that is on the vdrive unit is definitely 1".

My thru-hull is 1" pipe thread as well. Pic's of my valve install are in my gallery and earlier in this thread. For clarity, if you take a 1" PT valve and put a 1" pipe nipple in it, 1 1/4" hose will fit nicely over that nipple. The OD of 1" pipe is pretty close to 1 1/4". Better to use hose barbs at pipe-to-hose connections but a nipple will do in a pinch as long as it is not a "pressured" line.

[Big Mac]

I used a three-way threaded 1.25 inch bronze ball-valve made by Apollo. Its inside diameter is the same as the inside diameter of the raw water line so no flow restriction. By using a three-way valve, I can attach a garden hose for either pressure from a garden hose, or suction (for antifreeze) through some non-collapsing 3/4 inch Spa tubing with a garden hose adapter barbed into it.

The Apollo valve is part number 70-606-01