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Antisiphon valve


racer808

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http://media.wakemakers.com/2011/04/check-valves-vs-vented-loops/

Run your fill hose from your fill pump up along a wall (malibu puts it in the engine compartment against the rear seat backs) as high as you can and then back down into your hard tank/or sack. Intall your valve, then cut your fill hose at the valve and attach it as in the picture on the wakemakers link.

Edited by JohnnyDefacto
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Oh, I am just putting the front ballast in right now. I thought it was for the drain, wakemakers said I needed to install behind the kick panel, thats why I have been confused, all the threads were on the fill side. I dont see how am I supposed to route the new fill line up to the helm for that loop, the hole is used up with the drain hose & two hoses to the heater.

The rear is stock, do I need to add those or are they are already there? Also, I noticed my rear ballast tank pumps do not have a ball valve. Can I just buy a 3/4" ball valve at home depot install thru the hull & mount the pump on top?

Edited by racer808
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racer808, I assume you mean the vented loops when you say anti-siphon valves. As JD said, run them as close to the fill pump as you can and as high as you can above the fill pump on a bulk head or wall. I imagine most of us have used the check valves when "Y" ing into an existing drain or vent line so we didn't have to drill a new hole thru the side of the boat to drain or vent another line. I put my check valves on the existing hoses as close as possible to the "Y" fitting I am plumbing into so there is no water being forced into that line when I drain or vent from the new line.

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On my '10 there were a couple of ways to run the line below the deck to the bow. I managed to get my additional fill line for my stand alone bow bag (not the front ballast tank) through the round cable channel built into the FiBECs tunnel, but it took some work. I am not sure if the engineering is the same on an '02 as a '10. Look in the battery compartment and if you see a hole between the battery and the bulk head that should be the air intake tunnel that leads to the rear of the boat near the V drive if they are the same. You may have to get creative if not.

If your boat has the stock ballast system there should be ball valves on all of your thru hulls for the system IAW NMMA/ABYC guidelines. If not it might be a DIYaftermarket install. Either way you really need the ball valves incase a line breaks or a thru hulls fail some how. You could Lowes/HD them but they would be god awful ugly and most likely not have the provisions to secure it to the hull like a marinized unit would. Get with WMs again and have them set you up with what you need to do it right the first time, they are great to work with! Good luck, Bill.

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Oh, I am just putting the front ballast in right now. I thought it was for the drain, wakemakers said I needed to install behind the kick panel, thats why I have been confused, all the threads were on the fill side. I dont see how am I supposed to route the new fill line up to the helm for that loop, the hole is used up with the drain hose & two hoses to the heater.

The rear is stock, do I need to add those or are they are already there? Also, I noticed my rear ballast tank pumps do not have a ball valve. Can I just buy a 3/4" ball valve at home depot install thru the hull & mount the pump on top?

No need to use an vented loop, anti-siphon valve, on the drain side. You need one for the fill line. You might need to make the hole larger. to get the fill hose through the opening. No need to add the vented loops to the rear tanks as they are in the compartments above the floor. We only need to use them on tanks or sacs that are below the water line. I have seen the first generation Malibu ballast systems without ball valves. You should add some.

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Dave, let me know if you still have any questions about that install after talking through it on the phone.

I sure will, as soon as the hoses come I am going to start. Not to take business elsewhere, but would standard 3/4" ball valves from home depot work for my rear ballast pumps?

While I am in dumb question mode. The threaded male fitting that goes between the hull & the ball valve. Am I supposed to use any tape or sealants? Do I just snug the male end into the valve then crank it all down into the thru hull fitting?

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Any ball valve is better than none, so yes, you can use the cheap valves you can get from a plumbing supply store.

The difference is that those valves are brass, which is relatively high on the galvanic corrosion scale. Take a look at our blog post on marine ball valves for more information. But like I said, something is better than

nothing.

You don't need to apply any sealant, teflon tape or anything like that to the threads. These are NPT parts, in very low pressure applications, so as long as you full seat them (don't go hulk, just put a good snug on them with a wrench) you'll be fine.

Edited by skicrave
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Any ball valve is better than none, so yes, you can use the cheap valves you can get from a plumbing supply store.

The difference is that those valves are brass, which is relatively high on the galvanic corrosion scale. Take a look at our blog post on marine ball valves for more information. But like I said, something is better than

nothing.

You don't need to apply any sealant, teflon tape or anything like that to the threads. These are NPT parts, in very low pressure applications, so as long as you full seat them (don't go hulk, just put a good snug on them with a wrench) you'll be fine.

Though it is low pressure I would suggest using a little teflon tape. In my experience, I found that you have to really tighten the NPT threads to stop them from dripping. A little tape is very cheap and then you can go hand tight plus 1/2 to 1 turn and it's usually sealed up good.

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Sure, using tape absolutely won't hurt anything, I just don't want people to get caught in a situation where they don't have any, and think it MUST be used. That's not the case.

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