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Thoughts On My Stereo Components for the new BU…


Cory

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You might be right on that. But, I think adding a second battery since I got the perko switch would be a relatively easy task. It's too late to make a change to my order, but if I run into troubles with the battery, I guess I'll be adding a second one myself. I'll cross that bridge if I have too. In any event, I don't see me privately selling a boat. I think I will trade-in if/when that time comes again.

After all this discussion, I think I'm going with JX500/1D to drive the sub with 300W, an XD400/4 to drive all 8 boat speakers (I'll double them up in parallel and get 50W per speaker), and drive the tower speakers with an XD400/4 in bridge mode (but I'll turn down the gain by 50%--I don't think I need more than 100W per tower speaker). I'll put an independent volume control on the tower and abandon the idea of independent volume control for the bow speakers. I think this is a relatively modest setup compared to many on here that hopefully wont draw too much juice but still provide good sound. Maybe next winter, if I'm ambitious I'll make my own sub-box again, or I'll caulk the factory one for better isolation.

Based on Amazon prices the three amps and the remote volume controller will cost about $770 total. Hopefully I'll get $100 for selling the P400-2 amp on ebay that comes with the sub option.

What about resale? You might never go out to the middle of the lake but what about the next guy? I'm not a stereo guy so I don't know but maybe someone else can chime in. Would a potential buyer be wishing that it had that second battery?

Edited by Cory
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Cory you'd be money ahead if you just kept that RF 400/2 for the sub duty or use it on your 2 tower speakers a 100 watts x 2 since you already paid somewhere in the neighborhood of about $300 for it from Malibu and you won't get anywhere near that when you sell it. For the new amps you're gonna get sure go class D there. Going all class D amps isn't going to keep your battery from dying, don't let anyone fool you there. Lastly the first upgrade I'd do is throw a second battery in there, group 29 interstate in a group 27 battery box and won't be more than about 1.5" longer than what you've got in there now but alot more reserve capacity. I know many people that go this route.

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You should be getting a group 24 with the boat from factory. You could use that as your back up battery and use the 29 for main battery.

  • Like 1
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Couldn't change my order to dual batteries (spray date is today the 22nd). So, dealer is delivering boat without a battery and I will be putting in either a SRM29 or PRO-29M. I'll try this battery by itself this season and see how it goes. If need be, I'll add a SRM-24 as my second battery next winter.

After thinking more about my stereo and everyone's comments, I'm now leaning towards a HD600/4 to power the 8 cabin speakers (75W per speaker), a XD600/1 to power the sub (400W @ 4ohms), and the XD400/4 to power the two tower speakers with a volume control (I'll turn the gain down on this amp to about 100W per speaker).

Should I be fusing the primary power line B+ near the perko switch with a 150 amp fuse and use a fused distribution block to fuse each amp individually? Fusing the main line seems overkill since that power line only runs a few feet from the fused power distribution block to the perko switch.

Should I ground straight to the battery from the ground distribution block? Or else where?

Should I wire the power and gnd to the black box HU from the power and ground distribution blocks feeding the amps, or can I just leave that wiring undisturbed from the factory?

Edited by Cory
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Couldn't change my order to dual batteries (spray date is today the 22nd). So, dealer is delivering boat without a battery and I will be putting in either a SRM29 or PRO-29M. I'll try this battery by itself this season and see how it goes. If need be, I'll add a SRM-24 as my second battery next winter.

After thinking more about my stereo and everyone's comments, I'm now leaning towards a HD600/4 to power the 8 cabin speakers (75W per speaker), a XD600/1 to power the sub (400W @ 4ohms), and the XD400/4 to power the two tower speakers with a volume control (I'll turn the gain down on this amp to about 100W per speaker).

Should I be fusing the primary power line B+ near the perko switch with a 150 amp fuse and use a fused distribution block to fuse each amp individually? Fusing the main line seems overkill since that power line only runs a few feet from the fused power distribution block to the perko switch.

Should I ground straight to the battery from the ground distribution block? Or else where?

Should I wire the power and gnd to the black box HU from the power and ground distribution blocks feeding the amps, or can I just leave that wiring undisturbed from the factory?

Sounds like a pretty good setup. I don't know how they are setting up newer boats but your boat will come from the factory with an amp (you said) which means they will already have an amp rack distribution blocks, and an in line fuse there on the B+ to the dist block. You could just just replace the fuse they have with one that totals the manufacturer recommendation for all the amps, but I'd change out the power/ground wire as they will be undersized when you add more amps to what's currently there. You'll be grounding all your amps direct to the B- distribution block that should already be there.

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After looking at those volume control options, I think I prefer the simplicity of the JL volume control feature. Routing the low level RCA signals back and forth across the boat doesn't seem like a great solution. While I know others seem to rave about EQs, they don't appeal to me (can't really say why). Perhaps I simply don't like the clutter in the helm area (not a great reason) or merely my lack of experience with EQs.

Thought the same thing until i owned a boat with one! I have arc audio 5150 powering the in boat and in process of adding the polk p4000.4 and p1000.1 to power the HLCDs on the tower and polk 10" sub respectively ( to replace less efficient class A/B amps). Everything runs through arc audio keq5 equalizer under the driver dash for fingertip control. Allows fade between in boat and tower, sub crossover and volume, and high/mid/low equalizer. Try iy, you'll like it!

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Try iy, you'll like it!

I do not like green eggs and ham. I will not eat them on a boat. i will not eat them with a goat. You leave me alone Sam-I-am.

Couldn't help myself. I read this book several times a week to my daughter.

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This is what you get from the factory when you order sound pack 1 and the sub.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/usdw0cp5d594sm2/Photo%20Mar%2028%2C%2012%2041%2022%20PM.jpg

I was happily surprised to see they included the 3 way power distribution blocks. If you look closely you can see they run power lines from the sub amp to the black box.

Does anyone know what that thing mounted on the amp board above the upper right corner of the black box is?

Also, I only ordered battery option 1 (single battery + perko switch). I was also happily surprised to see the perko switch is a 1, 1+2, 2, off switch and not just an on/off switch. I assume this should make adding a second battery a lot easier.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hpma2662f9hjade/Photo%20Mar%2028%2C%2012%2041%2016%20PM.jpg

Edited by Cory
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When I was at the factory a worker was concerned about my order of the four additional cabin speakers w/o an amp. He said they could not test the speakers without an amp to hook them too. Something to the effect that a dongle was necessary to hook up the speakers and the dongle only comes with the amp, which I didn't order. He was concerned that the moment I hook up my own amp to the speakers the warranty on them is void. If they are defective from the factory I guess I'm SOL. I told him I wasn't too concerned, but it does pose an interesting dilemma when you order factory speakers w/o factory amps.

Edited by Cory
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  • 1 month later...

Can someone provide me with suggested cross-over settings for my cabin speakers, tower speakers, and sub? I've seen these settings suggested in other threads, but for the life of me I can't find them using the search feature. As a reminder my system is:

1) HD600/4 driving 8 interior cabin speakers (RF 6.5" speakers installed by the factory)

2) XD600/1 driving the sub (RF 12" factory speaker & enclosure)

3) XD400/4 driving 2 tower speakers (a pair of factory 6x9's)

The XD600/1 has the option for a 30Hz infrasonic filter and a 12dB or 24dB LP filter slope. What do you suggest I set these to?

The HD600/4 has the option for a 12dB or 24dB LP filter slope. What do you suggest I set this one to?

I used the JL Audio iPhone app to check the polarity of my speakers. It worked well and I found that my sub and one cabin speaker were reversed.

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When I was at the factory a worker was concerned about my order of the four additional cabin speakers w/o an amp. He said they could not test the speakers without an amp to hook them too. Something to the effect that a dongle was necessary to hook up the speakers and the dongle only comes with the amp, which I didn't order. He was concerned that the moment I hook up my own amp to the speakers the warranty on them is void. If they are defective from the factory I guess I'm SOL. I told him I wasn't too concerned, but it does pose an interesting dilemma when you order factory speakers w/o factory amps.

I did the same thing on my 2013 VLX, they sent (4) speakers seperate in the boat in boxes. The chances of the speakers being bad are next to none, I would not sweat it. I am sure your dealer would take care of you if a speaker did not work properly. You will also need to cut the vinyl to mount the speakers, its simple to find the pattern, it just involves using a razor blade and cutting the hole out of the vinyl.

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Can someone provide me with suggested cross-over settings for my cabin speakers, tower speakers, and sub? I've seen these settings suggested in other threads, but for the life of me I can't find them using the search feature. As a reminder my system is:

1) HD600/4 driving 8 interior cabin speakers (RF 6.5" speakers installed by the factory)

2) XD600/1 driving the sub (RF 12" factory speaker & enclosure)

3) XD400/4 driving 2 tower speakers (a pair of factory 6x9's)

The XD600/1 has the option for a 30Hz infrasonic filter and a 12dB or 24dB LP filter slope. What do you suggest I set these to?

The HD600/4 has the option for a 12dB or 24dB LP filter slope. What do you suggest I set this one to?

One more set of questions... I'm currently driving the sub amp via the sub RCA outputs on the RFX5000 HU. Do I even need to set cross-over settings when using the RCA sub outputs? Do you recommend using the RCA sub outputs or one of the front or rear RCA outputs and use the amp's internal cross-over?

I used the JL Audio iPhone app to check the polarity of my speakers. It worked well and I found that my sub and one cabin speaker were reversed.

Lot's of questions, I know.

Thanks!

Edited by Cory
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I'd start with the sub low passed at 100 and the cabins and towers high passed around 80. Fine tune from there.

The subsonic filter is not needed unless you have a ported box? as for the sub xover rolloff, 12db will probably sound more "natural".

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