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where to cut


racer808

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I ordered some new speakers that are 6.5" but such a better quality then the infinities that are in there they need a bigger hole. Existing is mounted under the rear seat engine compartment. How or what is the best way to make these holes larger? I've also though of just leaving them alone buying some 6.5" boxes have them wrapped in vinyl to match my interior then mount them higher by the cup holders. Probably just cut. Sawzall?

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yup, I used a sawzall on mine going from factory Kicker's to Rockford Fosgates. Looked like a badger chewed the holes when I was done cutting but so do the oem cuts and holes throghout the boat.

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yup, I used a sawzall on mine going from factory Kicker's to Rockford Fosgates. Looked like a badger chewed the holes when I was done cutting but so do the oem cuts and holes throghout the boat.

You know that made me feel a lot better. Cause I have noticed goofy cuts & I thought the other guy might have done them but I also kind of though Malibu would have had to do it to get their stuff there. Sloppy quality? lol

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A Roto-Zip is such a powerful tool it concerns me in the hands of someone with no experience with that tool. It's easy to manage when enlarging an opening slightly with only a smaller percentage of the bit engaged. But if the entire circumference of the rotary bit is cutting, this thing can get hard to control in fiberglass. Great tool, but get used to it elsewhere first, have a firm grip and just take it slow. A sawzall is a large tool for a delicate job so it's a bit clumsy (opening can look chewed by badgers or beavers). There are pneumatic reciprocating saws that are very compact and perfect for this. The shorter stroke helps too.

A jig saw works great. You just cannot cut the entire opening with one pass due to the larger base. But it often works with a couple of approach angles and a second cutting tool to finish.

In any case, tape the surface and rub the tape down before cutting. Hold the cutting tool firm to the cutting surface to avoid vibration and a rough cut.

Have a helper with a vacuum to eliminate the fiberglass dust at the source so it doesn't get tracked around.

When finished slightly radius the hole edge with very course sandpaper or a wide radiused fine file. Taking the hard egde off gelcoat will retard subsequent spider cracks.

David

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A Roto-Zip is such a powerful tool it concerns me in the hands of someone with no experience with that tool. It's easy to manage when enlarging an opening slightly with only a smaller percentage of the bit engaged. But if the entire circumference of the rotary bit is cutting, this thing can get hard to control in fiberglass. Great tool, but get used to it elsewhere first, have a firm grip and just take it slow. A sawzall is a large tool for a delicate job so it's a bit clumsy (opening can look chewed by badgers or beavers). There are pneumatic reciprocating saws that are very compact and perfect for this. The shorter stroke helps too.

A jig saw works great. You just cannot cut the entire opening with one pass due to the larger base. But it often works with a couple of approach angles and a second cutting tool to finish.

In any case, tape the surface and rub the tape down before cutting. Hold the cutting tool firm to the cutting surface to avoid vibration and a rough cut.

Have a helper with a vacuum to eliminate the fiberglass dust at the source so it doesn't get tracked around.

When finished slightly radius the hole edge with very course sandpaper or a wide radiused fine file. Taking the hard egde off gelcoat will retard subsequent spider cracks.

David

How do I the tape thing, there is carpet there? I suppose peel the carpet, use the tape? how much tape do I use, just tape around the hole? Or do I tape where I am cutting & cut thru the tape?

Edited by racer808
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How do I the tape thing, there is carpet there? I suppose peel the carpet, use the tape? how much tape do I use, just tape around the hole? Or do I tape where I am cutting & cut thru the tape?

I think David was referring to the dash mounted speakers. Are you replacing those as well? It involves taking off the windshield and cutting some of the fiberglass out underneath the dash panel.

Edited by Ndawg12
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No, I just envisioned a raw gelcoat surface. Tape won't be necessary if carpet covered.

What type material is the carpet covering?

I doubt that you would have to remove the carpet for any kind of modification.

I definitely wouldn't drill through the carpet in forward. Reverse only.

David

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The holes are already there. They just need to be a bit bigger to fit the new speakers. There are the ones that are on the rear set by your feet. I am actually abandoning the dash speakers, dont want to remove the windshield. Going to mount some boxes in the bow & put the speakers there. I am not trying to make my interior loud. Want my tower as best as possible but not the interior.

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I am actually abandoning the dash speakers, dont want to remove the windshield.

Why? The windshield is easy and straight forward to remove. Simply pull the two flexible plastic covers from the base, remove the 9 screws and pull it off. You can clean up all the crud around there at the same time (more than you would think would be there). Very easy to do and doesn't take long. I just removed one side of mine this evening to swap a speaker out...needed two Philips head screwdrivers - that's it. Only really needed one but I had to grab a smaller one due to the tower getting in the way.

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Bow mounted boxes vs. factory location in dash speakers....I don't know about that. Kind of like in the '80s putting 6x9 boxes on the deck of your car rather than mounting them where they belong.

If you need to--get some help with it, but others have said it's not that difficult. My windshield will hopefully be coming off this spring for dash speakers where there are none now, repainting the frame, and tint. Do it once and do it right, you've got a nice boat there keep it that way.

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Well actually that sounds really easy so I will do that tomorrow since we are getting a blizzard, hang out in the garage and finish my wiring & button everything up. I wasn't going to do a ghetto grey box. I had a box builder tell me he could something pretty cool like the new boats & use vinyl to blend it in nicely but it was also 600 - 700 bucks for all 4.....daddy needs ballast so we will just stick with factory locations

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I found that a large (1-1/2" or 2") drum sanding attachment on a driver drill works well. With an aggressive grit you can enlarge the hole pretty quickly but maintain control.

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Well actually that sounds really easy so I will do that tomorrow since we are getting a blizzard, hang out in the garage and finish my wiring & button everything up. I wasn't going to do a ghetto grey box. I had a box builder tell me he could something pretty cool like the new boats & use vinyl to blend it in nicely but it was also 600 - 700 bucks for all 4.....daddy needs ballast so we will just stick with factory locations

Another reason not to do a box is that you are placing an infinite baffle speaker in an inordinately small enclosure. And that always sounds thin.

David

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For the holes, I have used a dremel before, it may not be the perfect tool for the job but it did it's job flawlessly, just use a sand paper bit and it will go through just about anything on the boat you want it to

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I used my sawzall, came out rather well, not perfect but well enough. Popping the windshield was easy to, needed a good cleaning all over under & in the weather seal areas. Everything stereo wise is done. Just need my other amp to show up, all the infrastructure is in place for it & another. Guy came & looked at my old boat is supposed to buy it tomorrow, so next will be ballast upgrades, depth finder & the misc stuff that adds up really quick!

Edited by racer808
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