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So what should I ask


wakebrdr94

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For a 2010 VLX

134 hours

Maliview

Power wedge

Custom oversized Bimini

Monsoon 350 CAT

Underwater transoms

LEDs throught the boat

2pair tower speakers with custom LED rings

6 in boat speakers

2 alpine amps

L7 sub

Dual battery with perko switch

Extreme dual axle trailer

Cover with tower cut outs

Thinking about getting a 2013, boat is perfect, just curious what all you experts think. I've been searching boat trader and only inboards and have not seen one in my area (so cal) to compare. Prices are all over depending on area I guess

Or just let the dealer sell it for me since it would be going toward a new boat anyway. Boat is paid for, so the difference would be between what I get for this and probably a new VLX

Not sure how accurate NADA is, that's why I'm asking

476758DB-FA79-427B-B4B2-FCB0FCA9168C-647

97D18D33-47C1-4229-9FD6-97E3BCF0AE16-669

b2883b15.jpg

Edited by wakebrdr94
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Does the boat have a heater? Quad ballast? Shower? What kind of tower speakers? Prop type? 4 wheel disc on trailer? Spare tire?

Boat looks very clean, if I were you I would start at $59k. You can always drop the price. Try also running ad on wakeworld.

Good luck with sale!

Edited by Fman
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Ya try that, you can always come down. Better to be too high than too low. Though I will say my friend got a 2010 VTX with everything but bow ballast and the dealer was asking $49k.... 150 hours. Is a VLX $10k more?

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after seeing a 2013 at the LA boat show and they were asking 77k, with a boat show discount, with a similar set up as mine, I figured in the market around here I'd start at about 62k and end up with a bit less. If I let the dealer sell it and buy a boat, I believe they waive the fee for it. May just go that route. I know markets vary, but for someone who doesn't want to spend the price of a new boat, it would save them 15k right off the bat. You can register your boat in AZ as a non resident and there is no sales tax, just registration (on a used vehicle) 10% sales tax saves them another 6k. so if they don't ant to be in the 80s for a boat, it sounds a lot more attractive with 60ish out the door.

So goes my logic :dontknow:

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too low IMO. I would start at 60k. FMAN was asking mid 60s for his 2011 and it sold in no time.

I did come down $3k off my price and he is out of warranty. It will take a buyer who is a wakeboarder and not into surfing as much. It would also help to know what upgrades are on the boat.

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No bow ballast. I prefer have the storage than the tank. Plus I like the walk way at times. You'd be surprised how many times I've heard people say the same thing. I guess I need to look at the list of options as I thought certain options were standards, such as the power wedge. I'll look tonight a see

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I typically set the price where I'd actually sell the boat and then stay firm. I think you're more likely to get inquiry that way and if the price is fair, reasonable buyers don't feel like they need to negotiate down. Maybe leave room to come down $1-2K just to be able to give something. I think you will move it more quickly with that strategy vs. listing $7-8K over where you expect it to sell. Just one approach but it's worked well for me on a number of boats/cars etc.

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It sounds like you have a good ballpark of what you want to get. Hopefully not having the bow ballast wll not hinder the sale, as you mentioned it might be attractive to someone who wants more storage space and is not concerned as much about the wakeboard wake. There are plenty of families out there who purchase V drives and tow tubes all around all day, they are basically buying the boat for the seating layout. I always say ask your highest price and be able to come down a little bit to make the buyer feel like you are willing to negotiate. You have a great looking boat, I am sure someone will buy it up quickly. Another selling point is to offer a full inspection of the boat by your dealer (leakdown test) pending the sale, this will give someone peace of mind when purchasing.

Good luck!

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