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wakedncsu

Battery Relocation

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wakedncsu

So the boat is in storage and I need to order the cables to move the battery. I was wondering if you guys might have suggestions on how long my red and black cables need to be to move the battery from the storage locker to behind the observers seat in a 2001 Wakesetter VLX. Also, these things be expensive. Where would you suggest buying from and will it be good as long as it says marine? What specifically should I look for when buying the cables?

Thanks

Jeremy

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cowwboy

I'm looking at about 14 or 15' to do the opposite of what your doing.

I'm going to use the tinned ofc wire. Haven't nailed down a source or gauge yet. Debating between 00 and 0.

The tinning keeps it from corroding.

Just make sure and get oxygen free copper "ofc" and not the aluminum stuff.

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wakedncsu

I'm looking at about 14 or 15' to do the opposite of what your doing.

I'm going to use the tinned ofc wire. Haven't nailed down a source or gauge yet. Debating between 00 and 0.

The tinning keeps it from corroding.

Just make sure and get oxygen free copper "ofc" and not the aluminum stuff.

Excellent! How did you route your cabling for the battery up front? Did you run it up the stringer next to the gas tank? or fish it through the hole and run it on the other side of the stringer? Were you happy with the way it was routed? What would you do differently in having the battery under the observers seat?

Thanks

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REW

When working out the routing keep in mind that these cables are stiff and wont want to go around corners or sharp bends, if it is going throug a blind area and needing a turn to come into or out of a hole it could be difficult to make it do that.

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Ndawg12

Some one here posted a link to guy who sells cheap quality wire by the foot on ebay. Having trouble finding it for you...

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wakedncsu

Some one here posted a link to guy who sells cheap quality wire by the foot on ebay. Having trouble finding it for you...

I would love it if you could find it. I was surprised when I priced it out. What gauge should I run? Is 2 gauge enough or should I go lower?

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REW

I would love it if you could find it. I was surprised when I priced it out. What gauge should I run? Is 2 gauge enough or should I go lower?

The wire guage will depend on the routing (total length). Find out how far you will be going and then work out the guage, there will be line loss in any circuit. Sould be something on the web for thisl or, idealy one of the audio guys will chim in with some advise.

Chart

http://www.hitmanhotrods.com/en/admin/sources/editor/assets/chartsGraphs/wire_sizing_chart2_titled_filled.jpg

Edited by REW

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Mjlee1985

I'm doing the same task next weekend. I have one battery now which is located in the rear locker. I'm adding another then moving both into the observation area. I went to sound station and security off glenwood this morning and they have very nice stinger 0 gauge for 6.50 a ft. Not bad since there is no shipping and they will install whatever you want on the ends and you don't have to buy the tools for gauge that big.

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cowwboy

Excellent! How did you route your cabling for the battery up front? Did you run it up the stringer next to the gas tank? or fish it through the hole and run it on the other side of the stringer? Were you happy with the way it was routed? What would you do differently in having the battery under the observers seat?

Thanks

I'm doing the opposite of yours. I'm putting my batteries on either side of the motor so I can regain my dry storage in the observer compartment.

The factory ran 2AWG from the starter to the back of the hull, then along the top cap to the observer compartment. I mounted my switch on the panel that conceals the v-drive under the rear seat. So I will run my wires from there to the side of the top cap and then to the front along side the factory wires.

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Bradley Thornton

Some one here posted a link to guy who sells cheap quality wire by the foot on ebay. Having trouble finding it for you...

This is the one I was thinking of not sure if the have your size but will be worth a look.

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/40707-tinnedmarinewirecom-check-them-out/?hl=wire

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wakedncsu

This is the one I was thinking of not sure if the have your size but will be worth a look.

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/40707-tinnedmarinewirecom-check-them-out/?hl=wire

sweet thank you. Once I started reading I remembered that thread. I forgot all about it. Thanks man.

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shawndoggy

also take a look at great lakes skipper -- they have pre-cut, pre-lugged marine battery wire at pretty good prices.

Another thing to keep in mind (and this is what I did when we had our vride) is that you can reuse / double up your existing wire. For what Cowboy wants to do, I think I'd leave the ground cable as-is, with some kind of connector between the "to the battery" run and the "from the battery to the helm" run, like this:

31fO5DMeYqL.jpg

Then just run two new short ground runs (on top of the existing ground) from the block.

On the power side, I guess it depends how you've got your switch set up between batteries, but I'd probably just disconnect the existing run from the starter, add a single short run from the starter to your switch/vsr (which would now be in the rear lockers too, right?), and then two additional short runs to the batteries from the switch/vsr.

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wakedncsu

This is another good site as well and my fo to for larger wire...http://genuinedealz.com/

Yeah. That was the one place I found that looked safe to order from. Mainly because they actually had a "Marine" section for wires.

I'm doing the opposite of yours. I'm putting my batteries on either side of the motor so I can regain my dry storage in the observer compartment.

The factory ran 2AWG from the starter to the back of the hull, then along the top cap to the observer compartment. I mounted my switch on the panel that conceals the v-drive under the rear seat. So I will run my wires from there to the side of the top cap and then to the front along side the factory wires.

What switch are you talking about?

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cowwboy

My battery selector switch. I'm leaving the factory 2awg and adding the larger 00AWG from the switch to the observer compartment.

I also added a short run of 0AWG from the switch to the starter lug on the motor.

Then two short 0AWG wires from each battery to the block.

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shawndoggy

great lakes skipper is cheaper than genuinedealz. I've purchased from genuinedealz and been happy with the product.

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nyryan2001

I did this last year... Relocated 3 SRM29s to my RR surfside. Very happy with the results... And helps with the surf wave, with an 1100lb on top of them If I need a perfectly even boat I put 1/2 ballast in my LR tank.

Search for 20ft 2ga jumper cables. Cut clips off and fuse both sides.

Ensure you fuse BOTH sides of that red+ cable... I have 50a kicker stereo fuses on mine, have never popped and I have one of the bigger stereos out there so I know I have some decent amps going thru that 2ga 20ft run.

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wakedncsu

I did this last year... Relocated 3 SRM29s to my RR surfside. Very happy with the results... And helps with the surf wave, with an 1100lb on top of them If I need a perfectly even boat I put 1/2 ballast in my LR tank.

Search for 20ft 2ga jumper cables. Cut clips off and fuse both sides.

Ensure you fuse BOTH sides of that red+ cable... I have 50a kicker stereo fuses on mine, have never popped and I have one of the bigger stereos out there so I know I have some decent amps going thru that 2ga 20ft run.

I thought it wasn't a good idean to have bags of water sitting on top of your battery. My primary motivation for moving this battery is because I'm about to install two 750# sacs in each of the lockers. I thought I would move the battery up to the observers seat to help balance some weight in the boat and create a safe placee to put the sacs.

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Steve B.

I bought great 2 guage from carquest. Very flexible, cheap, no aluminum and ton's of strands.

Steve B.

Oops, it was advanced auto parts, not carquest. Had it in stock, on a large roll.

Edited by Steve B.

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cowwboy

I am going to just build a cover to keep the bags from rubbing on the sharp edges of the battery.

As long as you build something to go between the battery and bags you should be fine.

I know that huge stereo'd 40th X-star had a couple of batteries in each compartment inside a heavy duty box.

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nyryan2001

I thought it wasn't a good idean to have bags of water sitting on top of your battery. My primary motivation for moving this battery is because I'm about to install two 750# sacs in each of the lockers. I thought I would move the battery up to the observers seat to help balance some weight in the boat and create a safe placee to put the sacs.

Not really sure what you are referring to.

I have 3 SRM29s in the black marine battery boxes... And yep the sac goes right on top of them. Could a few drops of water make it's way inside the small vents on top of those battery boxes when filling with the Tsunami? Sure, I guess so. Not really a big issue for the convienience i gain from having them out of the way back there, and the increased surf wave... No issues so far.

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wakedncsu

I have two primary reasons for wanting to move the battery. The 750# bags in the rear lockers and the upgrading of the stereo. Over the summer I plan on adding the tower speakers and moving the sub to under the helm. I don't know if I'm going to do a dual battery setup. We don't float so long that I have to worry about draining the battery and I don't plan on sending that much power into the boat.

So...should I even move the batteries? I want to maximize my surf wake and stay safe.

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jwl019

This is my first task for thus year besides the usual clean

up. I get tired of not being able to fill the whole 400# up in rear locker due to batteries. Also I cannot let down the divider very far since it hits one of the corners on the battery.

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