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Thoughts on heater


dm001681

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As some of you know I just bought a 2012 LSV23 that will sit at the dealer in Michigan until spring when I will have it shipped to me in NY. It doesn't have a heater but wondered if it would be a good aftermarket purchase? Where does it go, what brand/model is good/ do they usually come with hoses that pull out (saw this on a Nautique 210), is this an easy DIY project, I'm not the most mechanically inclined. What do you guys think?

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There's really only one brand as far as I know: Heatercraft. A three outlet heater, y pipe, and three hot tubes should set you back around $500. Installation isn't rocket science, but its not as simple as screwing in parts that are already meant to go somewhere. You'll need a drill, hole saw, saw, and some patience. I'd say for a first time DIY guy it's an all day job.

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Though mine came with a heater from the factory, it looks like a fairly straightforward DIY project. But it sounds like you need to make friends with someone who has an idea of what they are doing around a boat in order to get this project going.

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3 outlet heater with two hot tubes: http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=314-HC

y pipe: http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=H424

A third hot tube: http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=H521B

use code "PEACE" through the end of the year for a 12% discount.

A "Y" fitting will let you split one of the three core outputs into two vents: http://bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=2020 that way you can make use of the fixed euro vent that comes with the kit.

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09vRide, I found your post and its got some great info, thanks! That's the kind of detail I need!

Shawn, thanks for doing the legwork, really appreciate it!

What a great group of people we have on this board, I've found tons of great info snooping around the board and learned a lot, thanks for the help guys!!!

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What a great group of people we have on this board, I've found tons of great info snooping around the board and learned a lot, thanks for the help guys!!!

Flattery always works on this board. LOL

Seriously, this is the best group of owners you will find.

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Looks like you can get a heater craft 300h straight from their website for $313

http://www.heatercraft.com/300h-unit-only-3-outlet/

Then you can buy the Y fitting and 3 hot tubes from skidim for $139 (on sale)

Then you just need the brass parts, some extra heater hose, hose clamps, and 5/8" tubing. Right?

I want to install a heater too but want 3 hot tubes. I think this may be the best route to go for that. Suggestions?

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The 314-HC directly from Heater Craft is a complete kit that comes with 2 hot tubes and 1 Euro vent. Where would the euro vent typically be vented, next to the subwoofer for the driver? Where are the hot tubes typically run?

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Most of the time I see the euro vents in the kick panel by the drivers feet. I'd like that to be a heat tube so the driver can pull it out and put it wherever. The others are typically in the walk thru and somewhere else in the cabin like behind the driver. You could probably do 2 in the walk thru if you wanted. I think I saw that complete kit and felt it had some not needed stuff in it.. I think you could piece it together and save a few bucks.

Edited by NorrisMike
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But by a few bucks its like $15 or $20. Not a big deal IMHO for a kit that has everything you need to get the job done (and a few spare fittings you won't need... This time). I'm a fan of the kit.

If you get the splitter I linked to above, you could run the euro vent and a hot tube (four total vents).

Another option would be to get two 2-vent heater systems. That would make it a lot easier to have a couple of hot tubes in the rear of the cabin, and then the traditional euro vent under the helm and hot tube in the walkway.

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Thanks man. I just ordered that kit from the link you provided above and ordered 3 hot tubes and the Y pipe venturi from Skidim. Now all I need to do is get some quick disconnect hose fittings and get a ball valve.

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Heatercraft has a new option available. In addition to the Y adapter, they are adding a small electric water pump to the water hose. It's wired in to your same switch that the fan is on, so it all comes on together. This means the heater is not relying on the engine's water pump to keep the water flow going. So the result is that you have GOOD HEAT at idle speeds..... the Y adapter was an improvement in this area, but this pump is DRAMATIC! And the perk of doing it this way is that you get heat after the engine is cut off for like 5 or 10 minutes..... while the engine block is still hot, and the pump is using that heat to keep it goin!

Also, standard install places the core up under the driver's dash. This is ridiculously hard to get to & if it ever leaks you run the risk of damaging your dash electronics &/or your subwoofer. I have a buddy who has a 23' Vride & we installed his core behind the driver's seat, near the corner of the passenger compartment. We put two hot tubes next to the core so they can be pulled out for any of the passengers. Plus a 3rd tube that runs up the gunnel, inside the combing pad to the driver's area. Then he can pull that tube out for himself.

And last but not least, remember to install some quick way of draining the heater core so it's easy to winterize. There is a writeup in the How-to section on this site on how to use quick release garden hose fittings. Or I've used Prestone Radiator flush Ts in my own.... just remove the caps & the core dumps into the bilge. DONE!

Edited by Bill_AirJunky
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Looks like you can get a heater craft 300h straight from their website for $313

http://www.heatercra...-only-3-outlet/

Then you can buy the Y fitting and 3 hot tubes from skidim for $139 (on sale)

Then you just need the brass parts, some extra heater hose, hose clamps, and 5/8" tubing. Right?

I want to install a heater too but want 3 hot tubes. I think this may be the best route to go for that. Suggestions?

I went with 3 tubes. Very glad I did. But some of that is because of placement of the heater in my boat. See below.

Also, standard install places the core up under the driver's dash. This is ridiculously hard to get to & if it ever leaks you run the risk of damaging your dash electronics &/or your subwoofer. I have a buddy who has a 23' Vride & we installed his core behind the driver's seat, near the corner of the passenger compartment. We put two hot tubes next to the core so they can be pulled out for any of the passengers. Plus a 3rd tube that runs up the gunnel, inside the combing pad to the driver's area. Then he can pull that tube out for himself.

And last but not least, remember to install some quick way of draining the heater core so it's easy to winterize. There is a writeup in the How-to section on this site on how to use quick release garden hose fittings. Or I've used Prestone Radiator flush Ts in my own.... just remove the caps & the core dumps into the bilge. DONE!

I installed my heater under the seat on the passenger side. I think it made more sense there and you aren't dragging 2 hot tubes across the walkway. Only 1 tube is dragged across the walkway to the driver. That takes up a little bit of storage in my 247, but I have more than I know what to do with anyway.

I initially had the garden hose fittings for quick winterization, but then the !#$%* things kept leaking, so I probably had some cheap ones. I just spliced them out and will drain by removing the hoses off the block and blowing them out, which really isn't that hard.

I also didn't see any threads in the DIY section. If 09Vride has a nice thread on the subject, then it should be moved to the DIY section so it can be easily found as THE heater install thread. I took a bunch of pictures, but can't get to them right now. I anticipated making a nice writeup, but never got to it.

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I went with 3 tubes. Very glad I did. But some of that is because of placement of the heater in my boat. See below.

I installed my heater under the seat on the passenger side. I think it made more sense there and you aren't dragging 2 hot tubes across the walkway. Only 1 tube is dragged across the walkway to the driver. That takes up a little bit of storage in my 247, but I have more than I know what to do with anyway.

I initially had the garden hose fittings for quick winterization, but then the !#$%* things kept leaking, so I probably had some cheap ones. I just spliced them out and will drain by removing the hoses off the block and blowing them out, which really isn't that hard.

I also didn't see any threads in the DIY section. If 09Vride has a nice thread on the subject, then it should be moved to the DIY section so it can be easily found as THE heater install thread. I took a bunch of pictures, but can't get to them right now. I anticipated making a nice writeup, but never got to it.

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/36974-heater-craft-hot-air-heater-install/

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Heatercraft has a new option available. In addition to the Y adapter, they are adding a small electric water pump to the water hose.

the aux pump just goes in series in the normal install?

i don't think that works.

just how does the aux pump get installed?

Edited by tvano
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the aux pump just goes in series in the normal install?

i don't think that works.

just how does the aux pump get installed?

On Heatercraft's instructions posted here, it says:

Optional Equipment

H415 In-line Circulation Pump

1. Locate and mount the pump.

Note; Do not mount the pump in the bilge, or any location where it may become submerged. The warranty for

the pump will be void if, upon disassembly, we determine that the pump has been submerged in water for

any length of time.

2. Cut the return water hose from the heater unit.

Note; The output hose is connected to the intake manifold or thermostat are (most V-8 gasoline engines).

The return is connected to the water pump or the large hose between the thermostat housing and the water

pump (most V-8 gasoline engines)

3. Attach the hoses to the corresponding ports on the pump.

Note; Fasten the hose clamps near the end of the hose to prevent the hose end from "mushrooming" and

to prevent coolant leakage.

4. Wire the pump to the switch or use 2-7061 Auxiliary Pump to heater relay switch harness to power the

pump and heater unit using standard four position switch. (The pump and switch should be protected with a

10-amp in-line fuse.) The pump wires should be routed with the factory wiring harness whenever possible.

Note; The wires should be routed away from moving parts, high heat sources such as engine exhaust

manifolds and sharp edges or objects.

More info on the Heatercraft H415 here.

Note that it's rated at 1 - 2.5 gpm. The HF pump we have kicked around is rated at 200 gph or about 3.3 gpm. Plus the HF pump has pretty terrible reviews. Seems like the faster flow rate might make the heater a bit less effective. But might be worth a try at 1/4 of the cost too.

Edited by Bill_AirJunky
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